tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-86070232836690930562024-03-06T03:30:17.217-05:00Chasing Goats: Around the World in Five MonthsChina, Tibet, Nepal, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, India, South Africa, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia, LesothoMatthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.comBlogger57125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-25045269975220172232008-05-28T15:23:00.002-04:002008-05-28T16:39:20.511-04:00Johannesburg, South AfricaWe got in to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Johannesburg">Johannesburg</a> in the afternoon and I promptly collapsed in bed until dinner. Unfortunately I had developed some stomach issues in Nelspruit and they followed me to Johannesburg then back to the United States. We wanted to see two things before going home and I had just enough energy to do that but not much else, including taking pictures.<br /><br />Our first stop was the Apartheid Museum (<a href="http://www.apartheidmuseum.org/">official website</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apartheid_Museum">Wikipedia</a>). Visitors are randomly assigned a race and then segregated for the first part of the museum. The remaining museum displays print, audio and video materials from anti apartheid groups in chronological order. The most interesting part is the later full color videos of brutal police responses to protests.<br /><br />Our next stop was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soweto">Soweto</a>, an abbreviation of South West Townships, one of the most controversial areas in South Africa. In 1948 when the National Party gained power and began to implement Apartheid, forcing many black Africans from their homes to the townships in Soweto. During Apartheid Soweto was home to some of the most famous resistance movements and leaders like Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela. Since Apartheid has ended there has been a great deal of development within certain parts of Soweto such that there are now large houses with well manicured lawns. In other areas the original, state built, one room houses remain and homeowners rent closet sized, zinc shacks in their yards to newly arrived residents or temporary workers.<br /><br />One sign of progress in Soweto was electrical wires strung between houses. Unfortunately the state power company, Eskom, was not prepared for the increased demand from Soweto and other former townships and has introduced rolling blackouts to ease the strains on the system. When we were in Johannesburg the blackouts were scheduled from 8:00PM to 12:00PM - which meant very dark dinners and no activities afterwards.<br /><br />We came back to the hostel from Soweto and ran a few errands before packing our backpacks one last time. The routine of packing and heading to the airport was so familiar by now that neither Ellie or I could believe we were actually heading home. The 19 hour flight from JoBurg to Washington, Dulles didn't even seem to be out of the ordinary. Both Ellie and I stopped to chuckle for a moment when our response to "Countries visited prior to entering the US" was longer than the space provided on the immigration form.Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-60404072383344239622008-05-27T18:39:00.009-04:002008-05-28T11:59:05.452-04:00Kruger National Park, Nelspruit, South AfricaWe left Durban and parted ways with Suzanne - Nathan continued with Ellie and I for the rest of the trip. Our next stop was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nelspruit">Nelspruit</a>, the capital of the Mpumalangma province, which is mostly known to tourists as the jumping off point for Kruger National Park.<br /><br />Ellie, Nathan and I had one not particularly notable rest day in Nelspruit before heading out on our final grand adventure. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kruger_National_Park">Kruger National Park</a> is South Africa's largest, and probably the world's most famous game reserve. Our safari experience there was ultimately very rewarding although quite different from our previous safari in Botswana.<br /><br />We left our hotel before sunrise and made it to Kruger just before 6:00AM when the park gates open. Within half an hour we had seen a few antelopes and birds but were shocked to see a leopard so soon. The cat walked along the road, within feet of our car before disappearing into some nearby brush. The experience highlighted three main difference between the two safari experiences: we had been driving on a paved road, we could not follow the leopard after it walked away from the road, and there were other cars stopped nearby to watch the cat.<span style="font-weight: bold;"></span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3oKDvACHqXFXe_H09DGasWWSDL-r5HZC-ml4ygxMYihAuy7cUH81kDWeYlloew015JfI1awjjTJ_kqyUFuhPOJkaiaWI-qVYunFJidoYBGnybZe8uhxNmQc-grppE_teN3VO8Qy66b4I9/s1600-h/CIMG6129.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3oKDvACHqXFXe_H09DGasWWSDL-r5HZC-ml4ygxMYihAuy7cUH81kDWeYlloew015JfI1awjjTJ_kqyUFuhPOJkaiaWI-qVYunFJidoYBGnybZe8uhxNmQc-grppE_teN3VO8Qy66b4I9/s400/CIMG6129.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205196240621435714" border="0" /></a><br />We saw a few other familiar animals that day like Gnu or Wildebeeste.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivNHCkvzjzCz9xOqLi9NJAOtUyN6jdn4-SK_4-c3P84_vHh76W4mY7LsTaE7zyqHZGlL_hC6sYymjLdJbM2EzHciV2Mq7Y2RdXDYm_6Q6bRv53TmTe25ineTb8q4TawNOXII5Gns2HQ8SV/s1600-h/CIMG6133.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivNHCkvzjzCz9xOqLi9NJAOtUyN6jdn4-SK_4-c3P84_vHh76W4mY7LsTaE7zyqHZGlL_hC6sYymjLdJbM2EzHciV2Mq7Y2RdXDYm_6Q6bRv53TmTe25ineTb8q4TawNOXII5Gns2HQ8SV/s400/CIMG6133.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205196227736533810" border="0" /></a><br />Crocodiles and Hippos (not pictured but just outside this photo)<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN6YJ3VLm2hLnumAipAx7pzxUvG0_cXQ7dzLZWylVm7W5bvL-SuhBSe2lqYaVz0JXjGXuAASSdAY63Tw3OSvn_6j_BG3mzWc4uQ1rjF0tYB7PQicVhg3WqTq2zE5nWxuy1MIBwdbXXCjUa/s1600-h/CIMG6164.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN6YJ3VLm2hLnumAipAx7pzxUvG0_cXQ7dzLZWylVm7W5bvL-SuhBSe2lqYaVz0JXjGXuAASSdAY63Tw3OSvn_6j_BG3mzWc4uQ1rjF0tYB7PQicVhg3WqTq2zE5nWxuy1MIBwdbXXCjUa/s400/CIMG6164.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205195562016602866" border="0" /></a>Giraffe's<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55DG1R0c41SG4Ngb1u_70oDY-RpVt12r3mEEqsi9vv_GlXXXK7FTb1rjci2buyyJGKhBZ0PaOth3b1M2ELkAkH5ygFgOsudtoin-wCwdUU_QunUMPiAxrVIHF5zZ4EwXHPRwgrkd4eIzf/s1600-h/CIMG6142.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh55DG1R0c41SG4Ngb1u_70oDY-RpVt12r3mEEqsi9vv_GlXXXK7FTb1rjci2buyyJGKhBZ0PaOth3b1M2ELkAkH5ygFgOsudtoin-wCwdUU_QunUMPiAxrVIHF5zZ4EwXHPRwgrkd4eIzf/s400/CIMG6142.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205195574901504786" border="0" /></a>and Zebras.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZue4OqzUXCkGhkbKKXt1ACZrQ-Kfp4ylbPBWj5ietN_h7QZ_dzVtpQi5l_R0tRQWP8uzMmd-xfltDwfFKalPAL2xLrhhgHzgKjhLRhCefeFyOUAL84Gup4cADuuCb-ERKE0-pI4Kw0Jh/s1600-h/CIMG6138.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZue4OqzUXCkGhkbKKXt1ACZrQ-Kfp4ylbPBWj5ietN_h7QZ_dzVtpQi5l_R0tRQWP8uzMmd-xfltDwfFKalPAL2xLrhhgHzgKjhLRhCefeFyOUAL84Gup4cADuuCb-ERKE0-pI4Kw0Jh/s400/CIMG6138.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205195583491439394" border="0" /></a><br />Additionally, we saw a few new animals like hyenas, white rhinos, and water buffalo. The latter two were unfortunately too far away for a good picture.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6SGJC7jgLTAOTYFIsLVyGsDA5gGrmwYjJuPla9jJcR9YtY-6jFUxbiHdAzadKhNK5LhSF5Zq2ZKhk6yKJnNUP8c-04lSb7otLwSFTS7bcc_9t_l9KcbH8_0DNgaObpKDJ9H5Rd6x4lZw-/s1600-h/CIMG6152.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6SGJC7jgLTAOTYFIsLVyGsDA5gGrmwYjJuPla9jJcR9YtY-6jFUxbiHdAzadKhNK5LhSF5Zq2ZKhk6yKJnNUP8c-04lSb7otLwSFTS7bcc_9t_l9KcbH8_0DNgaObpKDJ9H5Rd6x4lZw-/s400/CIMG6152.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205195570606537474" border="0" /></a><br />On the way to lunch, we saw a second leopard hunting two zebras. Eventually the zebras saw the leopard before it could attack and chased it away. Unfortunately this was also too far away for a good picture.<br /><br />We stopped in one of the many camps inside Kruger for lunch and visited a museum along the way. The most fascinating thing we learned at the museum was <a href="http://www.ecoafrica.com/KRUGERPARK/bushtale.htm">the story of Harry Wolhuter</a>, a former park ranger who fought off two lions by hand and won.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyS2j1QND_uY_1ldcSMA5qUWNOpeFlEhepaGPT-XqaYdEHp5kOaAS8bLf0TBVIJAf7_HtDSgs64CSRV_kQ0J_G1iZ36CYw6TXAlQwj4v4lAeJSQZh211TPDRbS1w5ouim3C5P0VD_Cwvc6/s1600-h/CIMG6168.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyS2j1QND_uY_1ldcSMA5qUWNOpeFlEhepaGPT-XqaYdEHp5kOaAS8bLf0TBVIJAf7_HtDSgs64CSRV_kQ0J_G1iZ36CYw6TXAlQwj4v4lAeJSQZh211TPDRbS1w5ouim3C5P0VD_Cwvc6/s400/CIMG6168.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205195553426668258" border="0" /></a><br />There was a beautiful sunset that evening as we headed out for a night drive. We saw a few elephants and innumerable impalas in the first two hours and had pretty much given up hope of seeing anything else, when on the ride back we spotted a third leopard.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVgsRxfbCBZjLypOBM04r2psCtZWWreZ_P467_iJ0DN_U4qvoxsdIJnuus0Ws6xaDDD5GSFQuIykRcn4hWtOJp4YXTMb1rtaOJn48vpTLR8EXP7IwWExf4FbM1fvd39secjw3lGxmnjJX4/s1600-h/CIMG6176.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVgsRxfbCBZjLypOBM04r2psCtZWWreZ_P467_iJ0DN_U4qvoxsdIJnuus0Ws6xaDDD5GSFQuIykRcn4hWtOJp4YXTMb1rtaOJn48vpTLR8EXP7IwWExf4FbM1fvd39secjw3lGxmnjJX4/s400/CIMG6176.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205193002216094402" border="0" /></a><br />We stopped halfway through the night drive to stretch our legs. The rangers mandated armed escorts for those answering nature's call.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5cDfa65nVoUXRDw-TMOsoHOdtK6mkbTQNerYOZ-T9dOGHkyumiILRKwdZX3QWXf2iV4117bqAXJTEBVnS_rR5caYvFk00mYgwE72SPxkC4xPemBReaui4PZJuNZgKp03Ad5oUGRRpOHgC/s1600-h/CIMG6170.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5cDfa65nVoUXRDw-TMOsoHOdtK6mkbTQNerYOZ-T9dOGHkyumiILRKwdZX3QWXf2iV4117bqAXJTEBVnS_rR5caYvFk00mYgwE72SPxkC4xPemBReaui4PZJuNZgKp03Ad5oUGRRpOHgC/s400/CIMG6170.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205193006511061714" border="0" /></a><br />We slept at one of the camps inside Kruger that evening and were up before sunrise again the next morning. Nathan, Ellie and I could not believe our luck when within the first hour we spotted three lions and, unbelievably, a fourth leopard.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtgcIbaWPNb42qVjdUiSWm86NN7lqB4LEWPV5kx4IgztJ0eEhrd_hrKidRwnYVeSqlEdx2rnVNr0TA-0zsAgRKcEWCVmd0lTK7ikb5Wtoxtj5gwWRAavxMMQ01Q46kigtkEwHP181fUaZQ/s1600-h/CIMG6197.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtgcIbaWPNb42qVjdUiSWm86NN7lqB4LEWPV5kx4IgztJ0eEhrd_hrKidRwnYVeSqlEdx2rnVNr0TA-0zsAgRKcEWCVmd0lTK7ikb5Wtoxtj5gwWRAavxMMQ01Q46kigtkEwHP181fUaZQ/s400/CIMG6197.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205192985036225186" border="0" /></a>The three lions, two females and one male, were hunting together. The female, pictured above, walked within feet of our car while the other two stayed further away.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTeCqrQZ9z8OAUy6Tl6sjtTUuA0O5gTF3-sABYh7NTZ2KZWA8diLfrDRwT0qSf0GidiDcZpBZw9Slg0vcDlalwf4gKPufwctJdS1iL4O9ejGmBNG61_cRBY6QMc1ZRi_LjoSvIiFHEUGd0/s1600-h/CIMG6186.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTeCqrQZ9z8OAUy6Tl6sjtTUuA0O5gTF3-sABYh7NTZ2KZWA8diLfrDRwT0qSf0GidiDcZpBZw9Slg0vcDlalwf4gKPufwctJdS1iL4O9ejGmBNG61_cRBY6QMc1ZRi_LjoSvIiFHEUGd0/s400/CIMG6186.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205192993626159794" border="0" /></a><br />On the way out we saw a number of baboons and monkeys. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6oaeJ-_hwjE6L5G8XjiSjqEhhai7YfjNQr5omsyEH5H_18RnIWbG2YRYfYmj9Q8vPzlMv34QBPmWzEMWcaI2G-u26Wrx0_LhX5rXimUoMN95s7QcD3BMlFXAnJDZ2kLhQhBs8wjjAFH5T/s1600-h/CIMG6201.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6oaeJ-_hwjE6L5G8XjiSjqEhhai7YfjNQr5omsyEH5H_18RnIWbG2YRYfYmj9Q8vPzlMv34QBPmWzEMWcaI2G-u26Wrx0_LhX5rXimUoMN95s7QcD3BMlFXAnJDZ2kLhQhBs8wjjAFH5T/s400/CIMG6201.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205192976446290578" border="0" /></a><br />On the way back to Nelspruit, we stopped off at a few other points of interest in the area, first a waterfall.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfb3cUOxuHnINCH3z5vcbgk4a5nuNQvSA5VQfP93RYpi-D64_mI5ZMyvhXe1SgaK-_VQYV6rbBs8njd-1Z3xMZXV9w_WdNXdCuY_TpgiRu9oKVxyWR3UMowm8On9lxRxIlfhu0AGzDSek/s1600-h/CIMG6213.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzfb3cUOxuHnINCH3z5vcbgk4a5nuNQvSA5VQfP93RYpi-D64_mI5ZMyvhXe1SgaK-_VQYV6rbBs8njd-1Z3xMZXV9w_WdNXdCuY_TpgiRu9oKVxyWR3UMowm8On9lxRxIlfhu0AGzDSek/s400/CIMG6213.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205191795330284162" border="0" /></a>Next we stopped at <a href="http://www.sabie.co.za/gallery/Bourkes%20Luck%20Potholes.html">Bourke's Potholes</a>, a canyon in the Blyde river where swirling dirt and pebbles have bored cylindrical holes deep into the surrounding canyon walls.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzYzhV91yj31zngi83-LGS93lHi7_YzX9psh3Sq5P9m3jmS-rllf5QoqvEpg9QJ-h1ww4s05OeBfTKD6RSeck_cJlrkiG1ZCEkFMiWk0TwNU7yOxBxbeFsVxA80W2XuXd-IQBJ7_0T3jAk/s1600-h/CIMG6228.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzYzhV91yj31zngi83-LGS93lHi7_YzX9psh3Sq5P9m3jmS-rllf5QoqvEpg9QJ-h1ww4s05OeBfTKD6RSeck_cJlrkiG1ZCEkFMiWk0TwNU7yOxBxbeFsVxA80W2XuXd-IQBJ7_0T3jAk/s400/CIMG6228.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205191782445382242" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjAwUshqKJJQ07A86DynSgry5DEAY9pk9iUbo1xO1C2f4QerOkng1FFBTccf7lgG_y7865Pj0gui8FV5jezBsdc6m2g2WjnL54WWtoDc_3533Aye_4noLI4G3HGEgUTujzmPWJlD14mAS_/s1600-h/CIMG6224.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjAwUshqKJJQ07A86DynSgry5DEAY9pk9iUbo1xO1C2f4QerOkng1FFBTccf7lgG_y7865Pj0gui8FV5jezBsdc6m2g2WjnL54WWtoDc_3533Aye_4noLI4G3HGEgUTujzmPWJlD14mAS_/s400/CIMG6224.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205191791035316850" border="0" /></a>Next, we stopped further up the river to see the Blyde River Canyon, apparently the largest growing canyon in the world and by some measures the third largest canyon overall.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGvcb82HK-UWfToHdKxY25sF6JM_h6MbDFYjnA1kW0jdlgWLjHZMg26NrVyiJlJht6wQkd95dFSzBOpm_SqKRRpopl-a_9l01Gl5-hugt46-QbN6R1UOcsCTF3MvY3t0MlHH_uT0IlGv3z/s1600-h/CIMG6230.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGvcb82HK-UWfToHdKxY25sF6JM_h6MbDFYjnA1kW0jdlgWLjHZMg26NrVyiJlJht6wQkd95dFSzBOpm_SqKRRpopl-a_9l01Gl5-hugt46-QbN6R1UOcsCTF3MvY3t0MlHH_uT0IlGv3z/s400/CIMG6230.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205191765265513026" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd0I9uroG7yUJxwm_mPWxhqxewxtmWEAKdJj45cb4jA6xp29cGolhvBi5ALnpmL_tRY75R8uUA4Tu6zMyPj-5To9IH2Ubh3O3bDQcmoVFazk76M5xZ8TwX-hKWZRGmaC9b9ZlZCjQgsjZj/s1600-h/CIMG6234.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd0I9uroG7yUJxwm_mPWxhqxewxtmWEAKdJj45cb4jA6xp29cGolhvBi5ALnpmL_tRY75R8uUA4Tu6zMyPj-5To9IH2Ubh3O3bDQcmoVFazk76M5xZ8TwX-hKWZRGmaC9b9ZlZCjQgsjZj/s400/CIMG6234.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5205191778150414930" border="0" /></a><br />Along the way back we stopped by <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/God%27s_Window">God's Window</a> which has a great view on clear days but is distinctly unimpressive on cloudy days like when we visited.<br /><br />We spent that evening in Nelspruit and headed out to Johannesburg the next morning.<br /><br />Nathan's photos from our travels in South Africa are available at: <a href="http://www.thenateupdate.com/photo.htm">TheNateUpdate</a> listed under April 2008 - Thanks Nate!Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-39970963391927408362008-05-12T13:21:00.010-04:002008-05-13T00:29:23.909-04:00Durban, the Drakensberg, LesothoWe flew from Capetown to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durban">Durban</a>, on South Africa's east coast. The town is the third largest in South Africa, the capital of the KwaZulu-Natal Province, and home to Africa's busiest port. The port got a lot of attention shortly after we left for refusing to unload a cargo ship <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/7354428.stm">carrying weapons from China to Zimbabwe</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjiU1Utfgp602Z2Ru9AYUbusgXED68rF-Zh1ujZfO9Lod-_qalh2OjtfydPCSG6SPNwUnjs94jj2LiFExIPSNbFpsWL_X6gx6BNA-BOkD1Jb2XeOG-Wi10_jWi-5wI09j2cKYSFhqz9Lpv/s1600-h/CIMG5869.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjiU1Utfgp602Z2Ru9AYUbusgXED68rF-Zh1ujZfO9Lod-_qalh2OjtfydPCSG6SPNwUnjs94jj2LiFExIPSNbFpsWL_X6gx6BNA-BOkD1Jb2XeOG-Wi10_jWi-5wI09j2cKYSFhqz9Lpv/s400/CIMG5869.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199548326463967426" border="0" /></a><br />Durban was originally founded by British settlers and accordingly the town evinces a distinctly British feeling as opposed to the Dutch/Afrikaans influence elsewhere. This influence can be seen in the architecture (see the photo of Durban's city hall above) and heard in the locals accents. The British also brought in many Indians as indentured servants in the 1860s and many of their descends still live in the area.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_1w7fyJ2STHPqsu-H2LBBqmBZbpQFxXyx316bSBTZB_J0LHYKr4NBRFcMb9VeLUfKUU8yJHj-8-prdN4h7JBFgSt5S8YRcveYcznLsIzHUsbRbenmi5kVHQUKGNUsABBZ-r0DOFSB5b6D/s1600-h/CIMG5873.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_1w7fyJ2STHPqsu-H2LBBqmBZbpQFxXyx316bSBTZB_J0LHYKr4NBRFcMb9VeLUfKUU8yJHj-8-prdN4h7JBFgSt5S8YRcveYcznLsIzHUsbRbenmi5kVHQUKGNUsABBZ-r0DOFSB5b6D/s400/CIMG5873.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199548339348869330" border="0" /></a><br />Ellie had been giddy about getting to Durban since Zambia because two of her friends from Peace Corps, Jamaica were in the area. We met up with Nathan, Justin and a few of Justin's friends and enjoyed a weekend checking out Durban's beach and nightlife. We did manage to see a few sights other than the beach, namely City Hall (see the first photo), and the Botanical Gardens (pictured below).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaeybgyTy2ViM8SVE5W9nfABDtkKbTUuPsKp2tX4zkescajWgAcJXR6mKjXxQddT-Wjo6eye6G6L-YkU9DxHnwHSBjEnqx1zlsd_O6CI0uFMpXNehByZDZuLiZlVuLDhg1FHRBSHmDWheI/s1600-h/CIMG5888.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaeybgyTy2ViM8SVE5W9nfABDtkKbTUuPsKp2tX4zkescajWgAcJXR6mKjXxQddT-Wjo6eye6G6L-YkU9DxHnwHSBjEnqx1zlsd_O6CI0uFMpXNehByZDZuLiZlVuLDhg1FHRBSHmDWheI/s400/CIMG5888.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199548365118673122" border="0" /></a><br />From Durban, Ellie, Nathan, Suzanne, and I hopped on a minibus headed to Underberg, a small town in the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drakensberg">Drakensberg mountains</a>. Although Underberg is not the best place to see the Drakensberg it is the best place to get into Lesotho, the small country entirely inside South Africa and that was our priority. Still, we enjoyed a day hike through the Drakensberg and stopped for lunch at a freezing cold swimming hole.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihD3wuMsSg_R9sA_168GklNg5mIvMAlzT379HsfXaYnCEaeciCDKBfhasLyJmai0lOnqRM2uTR0QOBlDfwOcip9ylNliSOe6avItKWxZ9hCUZ1kVhLv4te8Eefpv-FiGPAxrAm7wGOVRBB/s1600-h/CIMG5953.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihD3wuMsSg_R9sA_168GklNg5mIvMAlzT379HsfXaYnCEaeciCDKBfhasLyJmai0lOnqRM2uTR0QOBlDfwOcip9ylNliSOe6avItKWxZ9hCUZ1kVhLv4te8Eefpv-FiGPAxrAm7wGOVRBB/s400/CIMG5953.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199547647859134626" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIrVkpla3X7bU2s70zWqrpigLbFvb6cQXFAzlcIGSvM2V7bIXU1QQHLl9WFqRqmwX7zKqRvYYlxDDUNByHkdNih7BJ47fenzeM6ha8yzCM9DsXrqq4r1UtSU6omFY3Ph5KRlT3RO2tU5m/s1600-h/CIMG5930.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIrVkpla3X7bU2s70zWqrpigLbFvb6cQXFAzlcIGSvM2V7bIXU1QQHLl9WFqRqmwX7zKqRvYYlxDDUNByHkdNih7BJ47fenzeM6ha8yzCM9DsXrqq4r1UtSU6omFY3Ph5KRlT3RO2tU5m/s400/CIMG5930.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199547656449069234" border="0" /></a><br />The next morning Nathan, Ellie and I woke up early to start a two day trip into <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lesotho">Lesotho</a>. Unfortunately Suzanne forgot her passport and couldn't come.<br /><br /><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lesotho">Lesotho</a> (pronounced le-soo-too) is known as the Mountain Kingdom and is geographically notable for three reasons:<br /><ul><li>It is the only country to lie entirely above 1,000 meters</li><li>It has the highest "lowest elevation" of any country</li><li>It is an enclave, a country lying wholly within the boundaries of another country</li></ul><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhblhGDKsuZaODFCo5lRAFbROlPLzQC7dyxe5NYRYVLPupq5KFkcns6_eXrJbFVmJwGheUr4qJvagzYYLvuof7FkiO9Us-X1k2fBGwaL9NYcb9xcpGUe1da8Rs1ml1TKHUC1OHB8qs0DbQL/s1600-h/CIMG5980.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhblhGDKsuZaODFCo5lRAFbROlPLzQC7dyxe5NYRYVLPupq5KFkcns6_eXrJbFVmJwGheUr4qJvagzYYLvuof7FkiO9Us-X1k2fBGwaL9NYcb9xcpGUe1da8Rs1ml1TKHUC1OHB8qs0DbQL/s400/CIMG5980.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199546389433716882" border="0" /></a><br />We left Underberg in a car and climbed nearly 2,000 meters up the notoriously bad <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sani_Pass">Sani Pass</a> to the border between South Africa and Lesotho. My first impression of Lesotho was that it is charmingly anachronistic, much like Tibet. Most of the Basotho (people from Lesotho) are subsistence farmers or tend to sheep, goats or cows and live in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rondavel">rondavels</a> (traditional African huts, pictured below).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5GrebUPEDkZYBH-poXbbp08Z9sN8Y_DPf1tz7ttzpM0y-lyzver-pUfb4gXIkuYWTMuGm1Cty1BsArQide0wha45adYEnAA3Yko8U-6RcEvJUJRG4T0527LOS0bMmTzaC6TEnXOe5F5o4/s1600-h/CIMG6026.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5GrebUPEDkZYBH-poXbbp08Z9sN8Y_DPf1tz7ttzpM0y-lyzver-pUfb4gXIkuYWTMuGm1Cty1BsArQide0wha45adYEnAA3Yko8U-6RcEvJUJRG4T0527LOS0bMmTzaC6TEnXOe5F5o4/s400/CIMG6026.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199545246972416098" border="0" /></a><br />We climbed up and up the pass and the road leveled off at the border. Where most passes go up on one side and down on the other, this one is up on one side and flat on the other. Lesotho is seemingly a plateau or butte perched high above South Africa.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxiZWKCjmHKSMnuph8Kfjv2lohgPeI1UHJvJrf3Am3W7uyOEwCcycvmcTeMeJh1W_XiQ2SHz_w81m5yHrCY_CFknh8Tsf559ASMm37h-bxWJDk2aY3elSFyImiVOENc7MxybTaYQKbzIo5/s1600-h/CIMG6070.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxiZWKCjmHKSMnuph8Kfjv2lohgPeI1UHJvJrf3Am3W7uyOEwCcycvmcTeMeJh1W_XiQ2SHz_w81m5yHrCY_CFknh8Tsf559ASMm37h-bxWJDk2aY3elSFyImiVOENc7MxybTaYQKbzIo5/s400/CIMG6070.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199543915532554274" border="0" /></a>The five hour drive from our hotel in Underberg to Lesotho gave us a great opportunity to chat with the three Brits, Tom, Sophie, and Tamsyn, who were on the same tour. We stopped off at a rondavel where we dropped off our bags before heading out to explore the town on foot.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjM-VZSVasOfc-lm31mX1xCU2xhvuMo9RRJB1POylRm6BcC_27sVAVqjN3WTeTbXNGOZi3Vkn3J-iMH_rf8XrhCb9JWbT5CKhN14Fq47V8o7VkDa8P_xFJjN0XMH7Bnw6VlSXU7Ae97ML0/s1600-h/CIMG6016.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjM-VZSVasOfc-lm31mX1xCU2xhvuMo9RRJB1POylRm6BcC_27sVAVqjN3WTeTbXNGOZi3Vkn3J-iMH_rf8XrhCb9JWbT5CKhN14Fq47V8o7VkDa8P_xFJjN0XMH7Bnw6VlSXU7Ae97ML0/s400/CIMG6016.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199545272742219890" border="0" /></a><br />Our first stop was a traditional healer who channeled my ancestors and read my future using an empty soda bottle and a candle. Next we stopped off in another rondavel to watch a traditional song and dance act before heading back for dinner. The stars that evening were spectacular, between the elevation and distance from electric lights, I don't think I've ever seen the night sky so clearly.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NC1LqE6z3PKgYTkItuZhgjjM8hm4mZ9arUpQe2XXDzWKk3O6uZHm_sPLJWZXp7G6HXieW83c6rBDeybcPgJ8llJlJTYcXbqtQvKrLKdxmp8dwgVkTdM2iZBBSdjbgxgXnoKh6dNTyZTB/s1600-h/CIMG6010.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8NC1LqE6z3PKgYTkItuZhgjjM8hm4mZ9arUpQe2XXDzWKk3O6uZHm_sPLJWZXp7G6HXieW83c6rBDeybcPgJ8llJlJTYcXbqtQvKrLKdxmp8dwgVkTdM2iZBBSdjbgxgXnoKh6dNTyZTB/s400/CIMG6010.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199545285627121794" border="0" /></a><br />The next morning we walked to a nearby school where there were too many children and not nearly enough teachers or space. Fortunately they all seemed happy and were excited to pose for a picture.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNuPchd__CF0EG3ueKAyI2b9laiz_laROQPUDq9C-aaVGCZGmj84uq1yLj6CcnohHEecqlvaa8YBPMF9dXJwwHUJN9FQ4nz-vMY3EjACLHC3gt6bEudK-CRLKkwZimV5Hr05dlcEJ74zYq/s1600-h/CIMG6041.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNuPchd__CF0EG3ueKAyI2b9laiz_laROQPUDq9C-aaVGCZGmj84uq1yLj6CcnohHEecqlvaa8YBPMF9dXJwwHUJN9FQ4nz-vMY3EjACLHC3gt6bEudK-CRLKkwZimV5Hr05dlcEJ74zYq/s400/CIMG6041.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199545229792546898" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhybchciMvoseNOPbP2aRbIPeOMYhLbhqfjyiugNi0TaJR7vAHih55xfZeyBkaxDJKOuaRxCZbqnynz27cFJzXPg1YF4acHr8g7gKyw39YifeIDmQ5fDqZpUEqwO3hyphenhyphenvskAiuF2Ep6hH9XH/s1600-h/CIMG6042.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhybchciMvoseNOPbP2aRbIPeOMYhLbhqfjyiugNi0TaJR7vAHih55xfZeyBkaxDJKOuaRxCZbqnynz27cFJzXPg1YF4acHr8g7gKyw39YifeIDmQ5fDqZpUEqwO3hyphenhyphenvskAiuF2Ep6hH9XH/s400/CIMG6042.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199545208317710402" border="0" /></a><br />The day before we had arranged to go horseback riding and our guide brought horses to the school. I named my horse Panther, hoping for a lightning quick steed. About halfway through the ride I renamed him Piggy since he seemed more intent on eating than moving.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOo7dhtLY_zaeS2T8r9HZrD4Uhl7Qed_Vrz0u9hO445BDC68BoJWhFOzbY9Jxzo7VFvmCGKHaa8ZhXnP1h5phLL3FUG0owVdbXbHgyF5NbxJDEMQ2FZdqRXO5BZOxKy_daNHrRUZ6TW2K/s1600-h/CIMG6054.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOo7dhtLY_zaeS2T8r9HZrD4Uhl7Qed_Vrz0u9hO445BDC68BoJWhFOzbY9Jxzo7VFvmCGKHaa8ZhXnP1h5phLL3FUG0owVdbXbHgyF5NbxJDEMQ2FZdqRXO5BZOxKy_daNHrRUZ6TW2K/s400/CIMG6054.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199543924122488882" border="0" /></a><br />After a few hours we galloped confidently back to camp where we ate lunch with the host family.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioYYHgW9dtKXWV7gAR_UO_I2916Q6TVvzjoO1sVyxxrAvWZAMjvUPaaIU16pjOrDfPeXqFDqWmFTgPNXxVf7phBfR7A36ry-3q8ZEeVXk8ggCP_kcq10PKVWoVgz12iDVgYsNu2DxK0NAb/s1600-h/CIMG6087.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioYYHgW9dtKXWV7gAR_UO_I2916Q6TVvzjoO1sVyxxrAvWZAMjvUPaaIU16pjOrDfPeXqFDqWmFTgPNXxVf7phBfR7A36ry-3q8ZEeVXk8ggCP_kcq10PKVWoVgz12iDVgYsNu2DxK0NAb/s400/CIMG6087.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199543894057717778" border="0" /></a><br />On the way out we stopped for a drink at the Sani Pass, home to the highest pub in Africa.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRvAKZM5WhMLiNN27Q3E0MO4PMe0lszGvV04hYCszVR1wDFK6NoA-jVI1T7Se2Q0yZUtf0-16cC9Ix0Onlwm927ot13b1tfZld4tVdY3dft5rha9dgqE6reMMH2jXWVWQLnT4sZA8gFCsw/s1600-h/CIMG6123.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRvAKZM5WhMLiNN27Q3E0MO4PMe0lszGvV04hYCszVR1wDFK6NoA-jVI1T7Se2Q0yZUtf0-16cC9Ix0Onlwm927ot13b1tfZld4tVdY3dft5rha9dgqE6reMMH2jXWVWQLnT4sZA8gFCsw/s400/CIMG6123.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199543855403012082" border="0" /></a><br />One of Lesotho's main exports is <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohair">mohair</a>, the wool from Angora goats. We stopped at a small building where people sheer goats - of course I had to try.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5NQysm62eqfKwU0w6izsyUPXzZDL4TBdV6LYOwaRrkrgSJix92txNAcIPI26gnZ6Eog0ONi5gRZDVPtNXwRrA5nvNhXhsZAe_Ed8b7EKql3SUIsG6scaJez9j9fn4agaCIvtQ5PeWuwmU/s1600-h/CIMG6093.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5NQysm62eqfKwU0w6izsyUPXzZDL4TBdV6LYOwaRrkrgSJix92txNAcIPI26gnZ6Eog0ONi5gRZDVPtNXwRrA5nvNhXhsZAe_Ed8b7EKql3SUIsG6scaJez9j9fn4agaCIvtQ5PeWuwmU/s400/CIMG6093.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199543872582881282" border="0" /></a><br />Finally, the last goat photo opp:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYivDiiyFIECoKUfpOi79_q4HZhP5LCb6T4QrDCrgwPY3UC72xbp6Y79Pw7SvuopfCDfBv7NQEpc60OUeQyhXzm3Z_QX1hJ3_7moVccCebQQ7YTc0PJ_FkFlyearIKQTlBa29duz8Tox4A/s1600-h/CIMG6109.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYivDiiyFIECoKUfpOi79_q4HZhP5LCb6T4QrDCrgwPY3UC72xbp6Y79Pw7SvuopfCDfBv7NQEpc60OUeQyhXzm3Z_QX1hJ3_7moVccCebQQ7YTc0PJ_FkFlyearIKQTlBa29duz8Tox4A/s400/CIMG6109.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5199549219817165042" border="0" /></a><br />In case you can't tell, we're boxing.<br />Photo credit: Nathan MuzosMatthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-48330961319385412582008-04-30T12:09:00.006-04:002008-04-30T21:47:50.350-04:00Cape Town, South AfricaWe spent the first full day in Capetown at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robben_Island">Robben Island</a>. Located 12km offshore, the island has been used as a place for banishment and isolation for years - most recently it was a maximum security prison for political prisoners under the apartheid government. The island became internationally infamous between 1964 and 1982 when Nelson Mandela served part of his prison term there.<br /><br />The trip took all day though with planning it can be done in just a few hours. Unfortunately when we arrived all the ferry tickets were sold out for weeks and we had to wait around in hopes of cancellations. Fortunately this gave us time to peruse a collection of posters and signs from various protests in the struggle for independence.<br /><br />The photo below is a picture of Capetown and the iconic Table Mountain from Robben Island.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt6XPx62-txgxtcOW4rl-QNRlazES_vMq4Q3CDtNbw2LGYpdf77zTVAzvtvwAl1PW4qgCGz43OWjMeLAuQ1jDRQokj8_9PecvLq_Wp8IP50yj2i6FSNguE-SwEtKTETB8t47m2eXMLhtVL/s1600-h/CIMG5609.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt6XPx62-txgxtcOW4rl-QNRlazES_vMq4Q3CDtNbw2LGYpdf77zTVAzvtvwAl1PW4qgCGz43OWjMeLAuQ1jDRQokj8_9PecvLq_Wp8IP50yj2i6FSNguE-SwEtKTETB8t47m2eXMLhtVL/s400/CIMG5609.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195088030991935922" border="0" /></a><br />Our guide, a former political prisoner at Robben Island, wore sunglasses all the time, having been nearly blinded by too many bright days spent in the lime quarry below. The prison, ironically, served as a place of education for many. Older prisoners taught uneducated prisoners reading, writing and more advanced topics, often in the small, carved shelter in the quarry, pictured below.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyT795d2frSByci7ZEMcI7HIq9Qo296Iy4nJS29vixSvBP8KUlKszA7i_cvHp1JqrXfCWwj2VvaPzuMmWFfglXlm6LLBxdnDakFtSHeZlFfb3UGakBoCIf71Ii7ONDf41iBhTXOk7utoRi/s1600-h/CIMG5610.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyT795d2frSByci7ZEMcI7HIq9Qo296Iy4nJS29vixSvBP8KUlKszA7i_cvHp1JqrXfCWwj2VvaPzuMmWFfglXlm6LLBxdnDakFtSHeZlFfb3UGakBoCIf71Ii7ONDf41iBhTXOk7utoRi/s400/CIMG5610.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195088048171805122" border="0" /></a><br />The island is quite a contradiction though and its abominable history obscures what is otherwise a beautiful place. Whether its the classic view of Capetown, the picturesque lighthouse or the wildlife (penguins, rabbits, antelope, birds) meandering by, a maximum security prison seems like an injudicious use of such a pleasant place.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi13HAvkfUs9Toh5fuTOvYjsA8Y-ptRSOkJGfIH_mTx-mvOlqkPTQQ3ARWdn6-SNRuLBytLgZ5i3Ijo5npjnt4M4c6ZUz4A6cphkKTR8U5eCf1DFXMbgE4fJLMofywdY6DvA9phOZ_Sah4-/s1600-h/CIMG5620.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi13HAvkfUs9Toh5fuTOvYjsA8Y-ptRSOkJGfIH_mTx-mvOlqkPTQQ3ARWdn6-SNRuLBytLgZ5i3Ijo5npjnt4M4c6ZUz4A6cphkKTR8U5eCf1DFXMbgE4fJLMofywdY6DvA9phOZ_Sah4-/s400/CIMG5620.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195088052466772434" border="0" /></a>The next morning we woke up early to climb <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_Mountain">Table Mountain</a>, the flat topped mountain in the first photo and Capetown's most iconic landmark. We chose the Platteklip Gorge route (pictured below) as it was the best marked and some other routes can get treacherous.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCJmt2qDCN-YB4TbMVySdJletUikCVhBUV1nQsWsrhuAw3oDJp3AeKSYLTfZKLq0AuIwniDt6IfGAiu8DYa6-0K93aadIw-I_48v0UMfv9PyEB8p2OwRIK-zrhUBD5OuuNoEJxmx4wRrxQ/s1600-h/CIMG5630.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCJmt2qDCN-YB4TbMVySdJletUikCVhBUV1nQsWsrhuAw3oDJp3AeKSYLTfZKLq0AuIwniDt6IfGAiu8DYa6-0K93aadIw-I_48v0UMfv9PyEB8p2OwRIK-zrhUBD5OuuNoEJxmx4wRrxQ/s400/CIMG5630.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195088056761739746" border="0" /></a><br />The route starts at the lower cable car station, roughly 300 meters above sea level and continues to the top, roughly 1,000 meters above sea level. The photo below is Capetown's City Bowl, or main downtown area, as seen from halfway up the Platteklip Gorge route. Robben Island is just barely visible as the dark speck in the water on the left side of the photo. The climb up took nearly two hours but the descent took only four minutes - we took the cable car. Afterwards we headed to the Green Point Market, which is teeming with vendors selling carvings, paintings, jewelry and a variety of other trinkets and picked up a continent's worth of souvenirs in one spot.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje5Q9ZNn3lzy9w3up5GLqhrOtHb-erIJlnDG0Flg2Cotm_B0OkD-hPspMh74n2wGLXkHXtQDWFluBRkRUR40vBuzh5rNuw-yumRt7VTU-65mloxc-dAm7eHKqhM1qlmK9haBgQ0ZmfCtTf/s1600-h/CIMG5633.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje5Q9ZNn3lzy9w3up5GLqhrOtHb-erIJlnDG0Flg2Cotm_B0OkD-hPspMh74n2wGLXkHXtQDWFluBRkRUR40vBuzh5rNuw-yumRt7VTU-65mloxc-dAm7eHKqhM1qlmK9haBgQ0ZmfCtTf/s400/CIMG5633.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195088065351674354" border="0" /></a><br />The next morning we were up and early again but this time for something less physically demanding, a tasting tour through Cape Town's nearby wine region.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUvAFc-RuaLMfXbQfzA1cS-W486Zi195-iXjheYxwwP8BPWTyvPu5uR1SmNlMW92ODNnJ9dSlg3jyUqGEZY-0-b4l1GGc_y40nk0R51PHO5YEVxlwbblitLJZA54y_SMDtXVxQnajah4Gj/s1600-h/CIMG5675.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUvAFc-RuaLMfXbQfzA1cS-W486Zi195-iXjheYxwwP8BPWTyvPu5uR1SmNlMW92ODNnJ9dSlg3jyUqGEZY-0-b4l1GGc_y40nk0R51PHO5YEVxlwbblitLJZA54y_SMDtXVxQnajah4Gj/s400/CIMG5675.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195089078963956226" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf6ncobSLl0I7mAbeRc9dr6OzdRF2X977LvLZm4Kvb0yTOuyyChVueDNvKWhDLvubJha0L3yzXULh8vD3TEduWOEsTs6TxLlrSr5wNk3OhOgloBJV3gi-18yXb509p2jScW_TANKJeILK1/s1600-h/CIMG5693.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf6ncobSLl0I7mAbeRc9dr6OzdRF2X977LvLZm4Kvb0yTOuyyChVueDNvKWhDLvubJha0L3yzXULh8vD3TEduWOEsTs6TxLlrSr5wNk3OhOgloBJV3gi-18yXb509p2jScW_TANKJeILK1/s400/CIMG5693.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195089096143825442" border="0" /></a><br />We had a great time exploring four different vineyards but my favorite, by far was Fairview Vineyards. The makers of Goats do Roam (the number one selling African wine in the US) won me over with generous cheese tasting options and, of course, a goat photo opportunity. We spent that evening taking care of chores and having dinner on Long Street.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifeHxsQwwRZYrSrX_6RCJOvylvFNNEcJuSFn3eO4bK4YvjVebhNR_ZO7XyZAH3C-y-CZeLQRMyGhOIRJQ1PlYM5hu2-tWyZuKtYdS7pn_zxr0Ao5dEC1wwgCcvu2g_ir-zMr33LTU6KkBt/s1600-h/CIMG5700.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifeHxsQwwRZYrSrX_6RCJOvylvFNNEcJuSFn3eO4bK4YvjVebhNR_ZO7XyZAH3C-y-CZeLQRMyGhOIRJQ1PlYM5hu2-tWyZuKtYdS7pn_zxr0Ao5dEC1wwgCcvu2g_ir-zMr33LTU6KkBt/s400/CIMG5700.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195089091848858130" border="0" /></a><br />We took a bus tour of the cape the next morning. Our first stop was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hout_Bay">Hout Bay</a>, originally a logging town it is now a fishing town and great photo opportunity.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1KNRlX6Cug41JOIuSnsMpybu46EWzewBDBoR6QjeDPtM7KqmJsXmXbLAGjNxfZhZLHBrgvEkALbPCpYau0aiPPcM4kjdQYvzKVLqbr3xfqY_TF2sjKNYw5x12C3S4UpoyOkAnkBX77jDw/s1600-h/CIMG5710.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1KNRlX6Cug41JOIuSnsMpybu46EWzewBDBoR6QjeDPtM7KqmJsXmXbLAGjNxfZhZLHBrgvEkALbPCpYau0aiPPcM4kjdQYvzKVLqbr3xfqY_TF2sjKNYw5x12C3S4UpoyOkAnkBX77jDw/s400/CIMG5710.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195089109028727346" border="0" /></a><br />The drive from Hout Bay to the southern peninsula follows <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chapman%27s_Peak">Chapmans Peak Drive</a>, one of the most scenic drives in the world. The drive wraps around Chapman's Peak, following the coastline, along sheer cliffs and offers breathtaking views of sandy beaches and rocky shorelines.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBsVRVJ36RwV-QpWUUNrMD-U2XhhwRJL9Ja44k4L6-mpIzRJwyjoy7LTk-f5axKmG_g8OgOE0_QMqRiG6VtidEgZQMtNFuZC8mcftgqXW3lb97G-hkely9_265LTCLF241ppxR1_gkJZic/s1600-h/CIMG5716.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBsVRVJ36RwV-QpWUUNrMD-U2XhhwRJL9Ja44k4L6-mpIzRJwyjoy7LTk-f5axKmG_g8OgOE0_QMqRiG6VtidEgZQMtNFuZC8mcftgqXW3lb97G-hkely9_265LTCLF241ppxR1_gkJZic/s400/CIMG5716.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195089121913629250" border="0" /></a><br />The next stop was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boulders_Beach">Boulders Beach</a>, near Simon's Town.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYQC7vUNa7e2PEMtbgofUtlxgs-wRwIlyJr8_-ZP8lIh2h86j6avL6ZpmMRL29palA7jPdNX_ZGSNGQsboP7dshyhjynsN6TIITdCvbWN42eQxbt6jUDd52lGKjaCXsLWaP4BLpd0opATY/s1600-h/CIMG5727.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYQC7vUNa7e2PEMtbgofUtlxgs-wRwIlyJr8_-ZP8lIh2h86j6avL6ZpmMRL29palA7jPdNX_ZGSNGQsboP7dshyhjynsN6TIITdCvbWN42eQxbt6jUDd52lGKjaCXsLWaP4BLpd0opATY/s400/CIMG5727.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195089770453690962" border="0" /></a><br />Although Boulder's beach is an aesthetic pleasing town with a great swimming beach, most tourists only stop by to see the colony of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/African_Penguin">African Penguins</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDaY64epu97WQj6rIO2YGEHdJBzZu6Y1-dRZloC4Ubyy4HTIlloqP7r_c1SnVRkWWKbzYDrlW0X98pFB5eP9IujP58Zb9g7_CkczgUgLe6tUJSvSC8k3q4q-IwKkIey4DBDWRziKmMb6w/s1600-h/CIMG5731.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfDaY64epu97WQj6rIO2YGEHdJBzZu6Y1-dRZloC4Ubyy4HTIlloqP7r_c1SnVRkWWKbzYDrlW0X98pFB5eP9IujP58Zb9g7_CkczgUgLe6tUJSvSC8k3q4q-IwKkIey4DBDWRziKmMb6w/s400/CIMG5731.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195089779043625570" border="0" /></a><br />The African Penguins are also known as Jackass Penguins, so called for their donkey like hee-haw call.<br /><br /><object height="355" width="425"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/N7-Bfu5zIBY&hl=en"><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/N7-Bfu5zIBY&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" height="355" width="425"></embed></object><br /><br />Boulder's Beach is probably one of the few places in the world where you can find this road sign.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimesfQxAEYJ8LRmS_5_sTBxgYg3cOIKDamQXFzjKZlXQIoslHMef6tqtEDW2HMGURQ08bhqPK-rZtwsa1bV4gopNZItMgwvgw-gTF2Qake8i3_vxEnpdg_dh1HC9hQNgjX1qjAjP6UTnih/s1600-h/CIMG5760.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimesfQxAEYJ8LRmS_5_sTBxgYg3cOIKDamQXFzjKZlXQIoslHMef6tqtEDW2HMGURQ08bhqPK-rZtwsa1bV4gopNZItMgwvgw-gTF2Qake8i3_vxEnpdg_dh1HC9hQNgjX1qjAjP6UTnih/s400/CIMG5760.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195089791928527474" border="0" /></a><br />Our second to last stop was the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_of_Good_Hope">Cape of Good Hope</a> National Park. Our guide dropped us off near the gate and we bicycled six kilometers in to the visitors center. We saw an antelope and a great deal of apparently very rare shrubbery but the most interesting sighting was a few wild ostriches.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkde6CTC1c3iGjHvml_7jU6mjHp5Q_mdvUmrq_mFPUgdutlR-6n1SVqqGH3x8yqfB7sIbr4s1m2sLBesdy-Qss9ZlAD08ZNpOthPbkaetZgaXSoajvkGPOZMIeDxgKkiZidVI-3kxN135U/s1600-h/CIMG5787.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkde6CTC1c3iGjHvml_7jU6mjHp5Q_mdvUmrq_mFPUgdutlR-6n1SVqqGH3x8yqfB7sIbr4s1m2sLBesdy-Qss9ZlAD08ZNpOthPbkaetZgaXSoajvkGPOZMIeDxgKkiZidVI-3kxN135U/s400/CIMG5787.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195089800518462082" border="0" /></a><br />The photo above is of Cape Point, taken from the nearby lighthouse. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_of_Good_Hope">The Cape</a> is not the most southern point in Africa nor is it the point where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet, as commonly believed - it is, however, the most South-Western point of the African continent.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggb0t-yCHanyCzQnYapfoBmcsCFRRma8QD7TYwD_XD-ZG1Ov8YZDyWZcLp13g7i7KdfugWmV_Zr-QS8UIFhRbl4SKxej9R3Bz4Yv1gRaRd21WoCrmB04tLDgjoEQ2T6t2RL3H29D-M9kXR/s1600-h/CIMG5802.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggb0t-yCHanyCzQnYapfoBmcsCFRRma8QD7TYwD_XD-ZG1Ov8YZDyWZcLp13g7i7KdfugWmV_Zr-QS8UIFhRbl4SKxej9R3Bz4Yv1gRaRd21WoCrmB04tLDgjoEQ2T6t2RL3H29D-M9kXR/s400/CIMG5802.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195092291599493778" border="0" /></a><br />The next day we walked around Cape Town, exploring some of the older buildings in particular, the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castle_of_Good_Hope">Castle of Good Hope</a>. Originally built in 1666 by the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dutch_East_India_Company">Dutch East India Company</a>, the Castle is the oldest building in Africa.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUqc2fTcjEebYudZ3pInxusiHXflVFaMZiZmOckdG1ysUscgBs1nXElczNFstIRi6ktDqvu7PW0ByP3vgvzgJUXScTtgDU5_LBxeX7IzLNp_1wGlqzMpUC206FLco4a6cOpCp68ixrasU7/s1600-h/CIMG5825.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUqc2fTcjEebYudZ3pInxusiHXflVFaMZiZmOckdG1ysUscgBs1nXElczNFstIRi6ktDqvu7PW0ByP3vgvzgJUXScTtgDU5_LBxeX7IzLNp_1wGlqzMpUC206FLco4a6cOpCp68ixrasU7/s400/CIMG5825.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195092317369297586" border="0" /></a><br />There are no longer any soldiers in the Castle but it is home to the Castle Military Museum and an excellent collection of antique furniture and paintings. The cannon below is part of that collection - note the A VOC logo denoting the Amsterdam chapter of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dutch_East_India_Company">Dutch East India Company</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdGvEkQnZ2ZN2M2qZuXgvU_CqGccXlqHv2gmw0VOeiL_Y5sc-4RUY0De5FjnJxVkk7i2LHfS4do8usUIPr6otXKDmuEzsQjeuylB8QRy72N_vyvwzyqm5XM1sx43BvGiBzED2Jj8nNnty/s1600-h/CIMG5817.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdGvEkQnZ2ZN2M2qZuXgvU_CqGccXlqHv2gmw0VOeiL_Y5sc-4RUY0De5FjnJxVkk7i2LHfS4do8usUIPr6otXKDmuEzsQjeuylB8QRy72N_vyvwzyqm5XM1sx43BvGiBzED2Jj8nNnty/s400/CIMG5817.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195092308779362978" border="0" /></a><br />We spent that afternoon indoors, escaping from afternoon rain showers. The sky cleared up shortly before sunset and we decided to explore two of Capetown's western suburbs, Camps Bay and Clifton Beach.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdm7g3dOLUkk8_FPTdxCxzGaK1fGY3CfE38Xk3GeHmxvlpHWs2z3_pUhfE4KjJ_wVNSSsFR1ESQkMkB7VsyrBxFnlk4LdZTH1Uj95P-R63SLCtU6nspwAk6dOEc1x5nEiIXAJrmnNf-vup/s1600-h/CIMG5843.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdm7g3dOLUkk8_FPTdxCxzGaK1fGY3CfE38Xk3GeHmxvlpHWs2z3_pUhfE4KjJ_wVNSSsFR1ESQkMkB7VsyrBxFnlk4LdZTH1Uj95P-R63SLCtU6nspwAk6dOEc1x5nEiIXAJrmnNf-vup/s400/CIMG5843.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195092325959232194" border="0" /></a><br />The three sunset photos were all taken in Clifton, although the beach visible in the second photo (below) is Camps Bay.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIyXEqkqqm0eB-kn1SwWvR2pakpuqP9J54zZCvucg3IDEznso0woOhyphenhyphenJv6w0GNTbZAlOkLHvkQKxeyrOWVvZBgw7hyzUBP2-rI2Fujbp10AyzskNoZ2Ppvcxr7vZ_RS_nCIOfprXDqmQ_N/s1600-h/CIMG5856.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIyXEqkqqm0eB-kn1SwWvR2pakpuqP9J54zZCvucg3IDEznso0woOhyphenhyphenJv6w0GNTbZAlOkLHvkQKxeyrOWVvZBgw7hyzUBP2-rI2Fujbp10AyzskNoZ2Ppvcxr7vZ_RS_nCIOfprXDqmQ_N/s400/CIMG5856.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195092884304980706" border="0" /></a><br />We mistakenly asked to be dropped off at Clifton, believing it to be the one with more restaurants. Unfortunately we found ourselves among high end housing without a restaurant in site but with some help from friendly locals, we were able to enjoy a great sundowner.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1z8I09x08VPXM7AWajrZpSq_8OcYiwLSliviXg2J4g9nGalbtfurA9zmfA96ib8Y3gJXV9ihvyrBhx-Pa6n8IlBcjCz03e0XmWxeVxZ9o21mOvvKM4imo19XoCqC8nqisV8UlBc6Qy5I0/s1600-h/CIMG5858.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1z8I09x08VPXM7AWajrZpSq_8OcYiwLSliviXg2J4g9nGalbtfurA9zmfA96ib8Y3gJXV9ihvyrBhx-Pa6n8IlBcjCz03e0XmWxeVxZ9o21mOvvKM4imo19XoCqC8nqisV8UlBc6Qy5I0/s400/CIMG5858.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5195092334549166802" border="0" /></a><br />The next morning we were up early and excited to be heading to Durban to meet up with Ellie's friends, Justin and Nathan!<br /><br />We did a lot in Cape Town but that was only possible because we had help - a lot of it. Thank you, Meri for your seemingly endless supply of street level knowledge about Cape Town and basically planning my week there.Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-61226633134007752822008-04-21T18:09:00.001-04:002008-04-21T22:28:15.053-04:00Namibia<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Namibia">Namibia</a>, on Africa's west coast, is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Namibia#Geography">second least densely populated country in the world</a>. Accordingly, public transportation between many places is slow, infrequent or, often, nonexistent. Also, unlike everywhere else we had been, there is almost no inexpensive indoor lodging. As a result, many budget travelers get between towns in private cars and camp when they arrive.<br /><br /><div>We spent the final morning in Maun, Botswana frantically calling around car rental agencies in Windhoek, Namibia. With less than 12 hours to go before we were supposed to land in Namibia, it dawned on me that we didn't have a tent and hadn't rented a car. Since it was Easter weekend, many of the car rental agencies did not have a single vehicle available. With 30 minutes to go before the flight, we confirmed a rental for what seemed like the only car available in Windhoek - fortunately it had everything we wanted.<br /></div><br /><div> </div><br /><div> </div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186450388306764210" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjph2ByAhNA1_-Jx4lvzKewXaMScuWLxFmgsv0vtm78ra8sLA9fL5VdMRFX2hI4L7slPaA8fEV_3wv81WCWmq82kF2mVZU1U64Ct3QlG8Nch4DtMpNL4KmsYwPQgt6Ehu3isucRKoAeHzWv/s320/CIMG5577.JPG" border="0" /><br />We arrived in Namibia and went through our usual routine for the first hour in a new country:<br /><ol><li>Deplane</li><li>Gather luggage</li><li>Clear customs</li><li>Estimate daily expenses (in local currency) from guide book</li><li>Determine the exchange rate</li><li>Complain about the US Dollar (Not applicable in Vietnam, Namibia or South Africa)<br /></li><li>Withdraw two to three days worth of money from an ATM</li><li>Buy new SIM card and local number for mobile phone<br /></li></ol>Fortunately the rental agency picked us up from the airport and after signing a pile of contracts and disclaimers we were off, driving through Namibia... sort of. Namibians drive on the left side of the road and the car had a manual transmission - unfortunately I was not used to either of those things. We spent half an hour driving slowly through a neighborhood, practicing stopping, starting and turning before heading slowly to our guest house / campsite. When we arrived the car was undamaged but after stalling a few times, my ego was not. Thank you, Val, for teaching me how to drive manual in one afternoon.<br /><br />The next morning we woke up early, checked out and drove to a grocery store. Driving in traffic turned out to be another adventure and one that required a great deal of teamwork at first. We stocked up our car refrigerator with enough food for the next three days and headed off to Sossusvlei.<br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186450371126894994" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtr6tH7qL5YL2eZl1AzQ0Qy2GfiemlFh1l2HmELiZJQDQfWG0iVBATFiB94Asgl_5Ms9LtBh4lxnDEBov_8jrAZXVbbf-JY_qsxMOClD_VMlJlpcKTNSZWXaYgHeRvjg9UKv_o2fOkpAT/s320/CIMG5559.JPG" border="0" /> </div> We drove for about six hours along wide open, straight, well kept, gravel roads passing only a handful of cars, even fewer homes and only two towns.<br /><div><br /><div> </div> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187965512163700290" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPYPNagI6xiUJdaJkYYsaqm9STLiKppbs9jy1QmRqf2KWRD6nMJFH-rX7TITK4p848DfNq0nzoo8MbayY1IAXQgRP5-yYBHUpKUdSf2wIJT18w_ueUGZReIF-n4CsOtiCWtubTwFoZ9CGj/s320/CIMG5412.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br /><div> </div>We had read about an inexpensive campsite in Sesriem, the town near the Sossusvlei dunes, and decided to check it out even though we were unable to reach anyone by phone. Unfortunately when we got there we learned that the camp had changed owners and a campsite would cost US$100 for the evening - having more time than money, we decided to look for another option. The next closest campground was 70 kilometers back from where we had come but at $10 per night it was a far better option.<br /><br />The trip was not wasted though, because along the way we saw ostriches, meerkats, and our first springbok. We arrived just in time to catch a spectacular sunset that faded into a lingering golden glow on the horizon.<br /></div><div><div><div><br /><br /><div><br /><div> </div> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186452720474006034" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1C77HGx3CHH5l0rc7N_vMJV1p2JCeC1b18kb9DIYCzFWrQktMxGPqOwl_yG1MsIY0ihUDD8tRaMJDc6WUX2uKW9eeBMHEIfFMHq9E0RDj_V5k-AnWMu7y-zK4rvx2jKpJ8F4juUwteDH/s320/CIMG5426b.JPG" border="0" /> We woke up early the next morning to avoid the midday heat and hopefully see some early morning shadows on the sand dunes at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sossusvlei">Sossusvlei</a>. Along the hour drive back to Sesriem, we enjoyed watching sunrise over the desert while the moon was still up.<br /><br /><div> </div> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187968479986101890" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9MUPkUGqSMFqCSHLszVEg2FUBSeIXmRPdf6h41hrOHYmZTKkp97Gu5DjBA4UqOKM4BvT0M_hnLJ3vltp7CK3jgFGQL61x_LO-t07KAmZvm-T3Pvgp2CLAsnFUiRJEFp5QbTqOKfZgZ7kR/s320/CIMG5431.JPG" border="0" /><br />Since Sossusvlei is approximately in the middle of nowhere, the park gates are located 63 kilometers away in the nearest town, Sesriem. (most westerners would confuse the "town" of Sesriem with a gas station next to a campground) Along the way we stopped at every sand dune as they got progressively larger.<br /><br /><br /><div><br /><div> </div> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187965533638536802" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipRbm1rcGR1ua07IoBR8W64eN6hbXDEfFC5fwHa15995twr6O6HHENSsbF8iDuEhDynbooJQp85nekJNi9QmXRkMj00BvAm_uRQXleQh5rxHbkX_K4LXh-E1rCtPRuEbhRVq0HyJYDeQw7/s320/CIMG5441.JPG" border="0" /> </div><br />Sossusvlei is not actually a sand dune, which is what the park is famous for, but is a dried clay pan among sand dunes. Although Sossusvlei is the best known pan, nearby Dead Vlei is more impressive. The brilliant white clay is surrounded by impossibly red dunes rising nearly one thousand feet out of the pan.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186444018870264130" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQgJk-sEO6JIRPsHRA0ezcWA7CvvzbIVWtzEbYMk1Qa0dzHWvbEtW9akWEAyTbHuHBJiLTLbuu83wu-3XUughNTWGohEs_SlmFHQb3q_LwN3iOT6lO6MQ4yab5OoMFoQ2qCq2AyT908Shp/s320/CIMG5470.JPG" border="0" /><br />Ellie and I climbed up one of the smaller side dunes and took in the large dune next to Dead Vlei (pictured above). At this point we were already a few hundred feet above the pan and I stubbornly insisted on climbing the big dune.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187991625564860114" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRomZnWFhc6kCtdt7qIOpmVk1iTdZJj3m_MHf7S2N6HUQgGpI8Mv2XUoVl7FzncdOqbPiTuI43Cu87RCjvQD-fxkFOpnmEHgNOCraDyTBibExI1Ez2lhaNih-OAgSpXE8KGN-dgJrcHwmc/s320/CIMG5477.JPG" border="0" />Pictured above: the final leg along the top ridge<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186446243663323490" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwPKTAJvTjjmly0dYlq_uax_HvCKAy7BnXZeZJYbjqeeQ9PO_OaOH63EDVNXBUN6lIrHu0HfLd69mXvhHaWpgrRrdT-E7Pfb6WXlWnrV8cxTLvf4KA8HlA5u36hOPnd0Glf0HcCXJamfXH/s320/CIMG5510.JPG" border="0" />The sun-scarred, black remains of a 900 year old forest punctuate the white pan.<br /><br /><div><div> </div> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186447463434035586" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihUnKM-e4WCM1YSYe2jHn_33Q4VTsS4yvSMGkp6rqpi_JSQpJm0z-rPmqlOq6IW3czN2EwrLW0gFppcD1iXolqaf6vGJOarnSFJyPuERSiWC7uXgl11YLpMSX_DFw33Wkge-JxLC7LAq2j/s320/CIMG5517.JPG" border="0" />There is a surprising amount of living shrubbery for the middle of the desert, although most of the trees are dried up skeletons.<br /><br /><div> </div> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187965542228471410" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8yQ4hu8P7aeDlv1W2MhIBYNYWC6W7QZNwAc_fbd_CdaP0pkya8yUeES5JBPDUXu5FlBqFfax-JM9ezrLlQ0HHgYijuGUS1qiNwVODRIBB2u8TqiQ9Ipi2a7AIZFajIKhJJ_J0Iv3o0Qrt/s320/CIMG5454.JPG" border="0" /><br />We quickly burned through the 2 liters of water we brought and were relieved to chug cold water back at the car. The last kilometer walk through the desert was particularly painful as scorching sand poured through the holes in my Crocs. After lunch we were feeling refreshed and decided to drive on to Swakopmund rather than staying near Sesriem again.<br /><br /><br /><div><div> </div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187965499278798386" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvhmSowm1NPUwVfyZUVF0gIfMyRWdLe0ncGAT5MPaXdymt0ocZsXMDxmri_Fn0fdfbBQIhK6Qr98LEolV6rB2uTZkQs6X-znJ9E1ZLOZ5pv5l_UZgvx7VbC9kaOOAWjdp55lIBKMucLamy/s320/CIMG5398.JPG" border="0" /> </div><br />The first two hours of the drive were backtracking through the same hills as the day before until we reached a town called Solitaire. The town has a gas station, a hotel and a campground, which by my estimates makes it about 50% larger than Sesriem. The next hour and a half of the drive was flat plains with intermittent wild grasses, rocky outcroppings and sharp drop offs into deep canyons. Unfortunately the only interesting thing we saw for the three hours after that was a sign for the Tropic of Capricorn, the line marking the furthest point south where the sun is directly overhead at noon. As you can see from the photo below, the remaining drive to the ocean was flat and almost entirely unremarkable. We reached the Atlantic ocean at Walvis Bay after dark and drove north to Swakopmund along the coast for the last half hour. Although we couldn't see anything, the cool salty breeze was a refreshing change from the dry desert air.<br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186450379716829602" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgZY7NeNXOfNMhUHuDnjOIb7wSGfXmd9sRBxy8M3elwu4rWvlnj_kOdOrjdh4x04HQ5rKF7nSS3G0OxEM-nNbxxHiythI61H4CWvYvVAiVK6iScO61UxFAKoS6jp3YG1hbxWM4-gfY31rL/s320/CIMG5569.JPG" border="0" /> </div><br />We got in late and set up our car tent as quietly as possible before falling fast asleep. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swakopmund">Swakopmund</a> is a large town (by Namibian standards) on the Atlantic coast with a thriving adventure sports industry. The next morning we woke up early to go sandboarding.<br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186452986761978402" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRmKg675MfeJnWOhr9LwEvl2laowd8qErJ5vaCP0FKttTVqmvOfeRV7Sk_VoYyJuoRZ21RkI2y0mhxNgBPLudqr8m07uRhDzN8IBrT5J76O1nsLyNIjg9unXYNpq8TD5zJ5TBBy1LiUHcD/s320/25+march+pics+006.jpg" border="0" /> </div><br /><br />Sandboarding was fun but difficult, I wound up with a face full of sand on many occasions. Apparently sandboarding is an easy transition from snowboarding, although its not at all similar to skiing.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186452991056945730" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgdTNSN9oJRtNRmEVywRwyorPklUSao0r3__DPxyrbkvUQv_P9nhP40sPTbRY3qv1T2YllqU1hF1_bVfXGhEvK-D92iBb7ZalHxZ6j2Fv8RahS7haBPSnQT9l6ml3wZm9h6-zm6pYBFwSF/s320/25+march+pics+156.jpg" border="0" /> </div>At the end of the day we got to try sand tobogganing. This alternative to sandboarding was far easier and fun but somewhat less rewarding. The camera man, who was also holding a radar gun, clocked me going 68 kmh (42mph).<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186452991056945714" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW5JOc9lcI8OADd2EJLYHe_SqzWzOgH_XpQPLZV0wxA2q0RhPi29QyxEvG9NftnnMOKBgXFJvY46a_iOeHJTK3TBEa0QwNYr63hxZH8_nGe4sNkUgeuwnitH8Rtjub74if-xWr2CsZTCWD/s320/25+march+pics+144.jpg" border="0" /><br /><br /><div><div>The next morning was one of the rare occasions when Ellie and I split up. She went on a boat tour to see seals, but I wanted to go quadbiking in the desert.<br /><br /></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186452243732636162" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNNFgQ-FDMrlwLfCaWPaKhJh30CKSfN3W9JpHJxCefjoxNgehcxDYTWYpVSFIk1OG9tk1LSY8K4Pn7DnM-NI4CTDk4fxJ_W-02nqMO51w4w8MpIklQCzdeLfzyw38FxC7ljFDj29Ixl6FL/s320/CIMG5580.JPG" border="0" /> </div><br /><div>I spent the morning driving straight up and down the dunes and feeling like the bike was about to flip over the whole time. The experience was certainly less educational than Ellie's but much more adrenalin filled.<br /></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186450392601731522" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1pbYXkHqBkG5eiA44KIo1dycaW2V5uVSPrjxX2HtKjMUQgBbr75OF77NcpAGx49GvsCjaQjB7d2JL2-Aa4ey7DsL-4F4QjrRwPiNtmOG6iDkbB4mOCtUol-hH13Hc71JZuTS6jFyG_Wzl/s320/CIMG5583.JPG" border="0" /> </div><br /><div><br /><br />Afterwards, Ellie and I met up with Jesse, Van, and Ryan, three Americans we'd met sandboarding, and drove back to Windhoek. We were very happy to have a break from each other and the three CDs we'd managed to borrow from the rental agency.<br /></div><br /><div> </div>We spent our last full day in Namibia exploring the capital, Windhoek. Most of the historic buildings look German, like the church below, or Portuguese, like many of the buildings in Macao, China and Goa, India. The German influence makes sense as Namibia was once a German colony although the Portuguese influence is somewhat confusing as it must have been imported from nearby Angola.<br /><div><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186450396896698834" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9FoE1CRYz35yzBEzso_1bgqBwcxA0ctNkmlZ_lcOOk_7p1Hdd0pQ29dD9dYW6gsBYHVbaV8Z53Vw20abYFaliq8KCh-OXpEtd4YHYUKpzIHB7LN5d86-Bpt7yOUQ6m2gjOHatqQrB7S8/s320/CIMG5592.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br />That evening we had dinner with our American friends at <a href="http://www.joesbeerhouse.com/">Joes Beer House</a>, a local restaurant known for its wild game menu. Ellie and I managed to sample many of the animals we'd recently seen on safari, including ostrich, crocodile, zebra, kudu, oryx (eland), and springbok. My favorite of those was zebra, which tastes like a meaty venison.<br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5186452226552766946" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsoBmPEXoJc32eDCOQJiwWcqSB7PxKkNwl5G7IC7pz-P29boBtzefhNnXbxEv-ECn2qgXT2UHwCStEN7ZYODSLEDCYuq-aqvv8E7MjlJxP1ggpECqEryNEjDGjOdOtmWney_Vzvb7jiGq/s320/CIMG5602.JPG" border="0" /> </div><br /><br />Finally, I thought I should share two of my favorite signs from Namibia. The first is self explanatory.<br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5187968497165971122" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVkUvOPSlDtlpSFwnORdJPrQAHTeu5ti_pZy20owIs6rAaazXH-vxp0agDubS50SuC9d_SQZV5oIQDRWF20cNJaCCEt-cst8kzQjjqSF7IoycPfZ7AdQpIYZXVzjc6TtuuZcY9GUGgIlI/s320/CIMG5603.JPG" border="0" /><div><br />The second is an advertisement for a "Sheep of the Week" contest that we spotted in a BP gas station outside Windhoek. Sadly, I lost.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieKH4urAOF9A44FfKJ0ys9XuPDD0xm16d-g_u7KoA1n449J01TewQPkOpADchIbiVS4lRVzvC8LrL813Xt_h7CJE7RgMgj193xaKPBGIRzZ0LUqkNG1DmnA78H2NEX3ka_4_5HkevNcmjM/s1600-h/CIMG5383.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieKH4urAOF9A44FfKJ0ys9XuPDD0xm16d-g_u7KoA1n449J01TewQPkOpADchIbiVS4lRVzvC8LrL813Xt_h7CJE7RgMgj193xaKPBGIRzZ0LUqkNG1DmnA78H2NEX3ka_4_5HkevNcmjM/s320/CIMG5383.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5191746295464162674" border="0" /></a></div> </div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-91162711163465028362008-04-06T08:59:00.000-04:002008-04-06T07:38:11.688-04:00Zambia and BotswanaI caught my first sight of Victoria Falls from the air. In the rainy season, so much water passes over the falls that it creates a vertical plume of mist visible from miles away. We checked into our hotel in Livingstone, Zambia and ran for the showers - no one looks or smells good after 50 hours of travel and we were no exception. After settling in and cleaning up, we had a nice dinner at the guest house and made some friends.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqnQoZ0UdHRQF_O8NlbPPNoi3mrDiOuLpFRDgqcHCL69tmQx2xwyHzB-IX6Wnyyc7dlm_ptS0v-uacBiO9CvpLBLvS8p1cpPxpjvjNpINxOYA4QDPNSFF47rZSgIFXFH2IQMHjJBltVwtS/s1600-h/CIMG4693.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182439421428244690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqnQoZ0UdHRQF_O8NlbPPNoi3mrDiOuLpFRDgqcHCL69tmQx2xwyHzB-IX6Wnyyc7dlm_ptS0v-uacBiO9CvpLBLvS8p1cpPxpjvjNpINxOYA4QDPNSFF47rZSgIFXFH2IQMHjJBltVwtS/s320/CIMG4693.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The following morning, we went to Victoria Falls with Richard and Courtney. Following some advice from a roommate, I wore only a t-shirt and bathing suit, this was the best decision I made all day. Richard brought a backpack with a copy of the Lonely Planet and his passport - he had to wring both out later. That evening we decided to venture out for dinner with some friends. I had a chicken and bacon sandwich and celebrated my escape from the involuntary vegetarianism that defines much of India.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLPOg7fpji16kCQUuNplBcukQXU_u2_OXqvKLDlL-dvE-mSIVoXZV6fBTxIKmwDHIYIOwzP2D7EKwxykB7L4T89bVZsXVlR4AO0rglNiXo9fBd6EspDzzWmv9E07yUY7qhP8JTgaCMLCd/s1600-h/CIMG4687.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182439430018179298" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXLPOg7fpji16kCQUuNplBcukQXU_u2_OXqvKLDlL-dvE-mSIVoXZV6fBTxIKmwDHIYIOwzP2D7EKwxykB7L4T89bVZsXVlR4AO0rglNiXo9fBd6EspDzzWmv9E07yUY7qhP8JTgaCMLCd/s320/CIMG4687.JPG" border="0" /></a><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victoria_Falls">Victoria Falls</a> is part of the Zambezi river that forms the southern border of Zambia with Zimbabwe. From close up, the water coming off the falls is so dense that only small portions of the falls are visible at any one time. The falls are more than a mile long and 306 feet tall but it is not the largest waterfall by either of these measures. What is most impressive about Victoria Falls is that the one mile width is entirely unbroken, making it the longest falling curtain of water in the world. During the rainy season, that falling curtain of water expands out from the falls and begins to cover the viewing areas. Even the most well covered visitors end up drenched but that is an essential part of the visit.<br /><br />The following day Ellie went canoeing down the Zambezi and I took the opportunity to update my blog and get a little reading done. Livingstone is home to a thriving adventure sports industry and visitors can do seemingly anything from walking safaris to micro-light flights. While Ellie was canoeing, I was waiting for my adventure the next day. That evening, we had dinner with Katy and Justin at a Chinese restaurant down the street from our guest house.<br /><br />The next day (March 10th, I walked half way across the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2bQUsQ9kcniS87KtKG5-UHdbfYT6lvqIc9k6ur-yTu0lxmwDmsZ_pFETSkKoX-yG_90Wyn-0vIDFJmO0a76UGVsLNFkLgkDD_HpQaVCi86uU_AVxw8znb3WUPz3dhqscpwQlEOTE8rQJU/s1600-h/AUT_0001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182439468672885010" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2bQUsQ9kcniS87KtKG5-UHdbfYT6lvqIc9k6ur-yTu0lxmwDmsZ_pFETSkKoX-yG_90Wyn-0vIDFJmO0a76UGVsLNFkLgkDD_HpQaVCi86uU_AVxw8znb3WUPz3dhqscpwQlEOTE8rQJU/s320/AUT_0001.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />And stood on the ledge, looking at the water 111 meters below then...<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj43Ttd-StVSEtjtXh90SNF4crzN1fg9Sa9bjVMGtsF56lfbyL4ByLjOLu7juyVJMjxht2nbbkAuC9ItcmCcPxYHZ6rte_LT7w5Dvr874DI_y88_XV96IuN2PPj40-R-AJqehiMrM0KMyjP/s1600-h/20080310_5490.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182440624019087666" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj43Ttd-StVSEtjtXh90SNF4crzN1fg9Sa9bjVMGtsF56lfbyL4ByLjOLu7juyVJMjxht2nbbkAuC9ItcmCcPxYHZ6rte_LT7w5Dvr874DI_y88_XV96IuN2PPj40-R-AJqehiMrM0KMyjP/s320/20080310_5490.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Jumped off!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnr1HVBhlwXxVE5ZmavByC2KjTN89btU8DEtcyupurZPjnJI4ONGnN1fBxfvePzoh-xKTQUzqJT0BELe-SbV9G181L3sS6SVGcLLRxoy3dpw0-O2fcRDiMJ8OiWgh2zXddnKysKYApbmB3/s1600-h/20080310_5495.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182440615429153058" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnr1HVBhlwXxVE5ZmavByC2KjTN89btU8DEtcyupurZPjnJI4ONGnN1fBxfvePzoh-xKTQUzqJT0BELe-SbV9G181L3sS6SVGcLLRxoy3dpw0-O2fcRDiMJ8OiWgh2zXddnKysKYApbmB3/s320/20080310_5495.JPG" border="0" /></a>I also tried the gorge swing, check out the video here: <a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=8vCIG4-yFWE">http://youtube.com/watch?v=8vCIG4-yFWE</a><br /><br />That evening Ellie was feeling sick so she stayed in while I went on a sunset cruise up the Zambezi.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbeN88iLFwVMpqemBlpZKHnepthwj-4MXCexsxf5n-Sb8FQtXHk41BRYVxTaEiWrrw5GgDZpWgKfETh48ojhRbA5mYIhilQdAFx4XGUo_Nn0g6dHaVjwTjoMF78uAmpSqEjtBDOALGyIvP/s1600-h/CIMG4645.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182439438608113906" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbeN88iLFwVMpqemBlpZKHnepthwj-4MXCexsxf5n-Sb8FQtXHk41BRYVxTaEiWrrw5GgDZpWgKfETh48ojhRbA5mYIhilQdAFx4XGUo_Nn0g6dHaVjwTjoMF78uAmpSqEjtBDOALGyIvP/s320/CIMG4645.JPG" border="0" /></a>I saw a few crocodiles and, for the first time in the wild, some hippopotamuses.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNvIOd85eK8fBXNXPW2IoYmrsNgqD-4OnV16OearH8_YbyFx46JYY7r7GvMnJdtx3IgN_PT7-FRMM0_gpQHJV02blunb22QGaRKOnQerCy8IHjYqlABARekQwOPHWO98JaQ-NOk1h1op9/s1600-h/CIMG4620.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182439451493015810" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNvIOd85eK8fBXNXPW2IoYmrsNgqD-4OnV16OearH8_YbyFx46JYY7r7GvMnJdtx3IgN_PT7-FRMM0_gpQHJV02blunb22QGaRKOnQerCy8IHjYqlABARekQwOPHWO98JaQ-NOk1h1op9/s320/CIMG4620.JPG" border="0" /></a>The morning of the 11th, we woke up and had to run some errands before meeting up with our safari group. After some frantic running around town, we took a cab to the airport where we met one of our guides, Victor, and another guest, Simon. From there we headed back to Victoria Falls, this time with a camera, and took pictures.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjglr7NEnTB4YeOtL6zfvE4VC2yGKXXF3No2aGGL1K2QM4mpcakbVwOpf7likOxUqbO7BTn8QnxKYof2N39_-9Pi89ApmMvqEGqDqO7A-_kwTPt7S4_2qhW7GuDlilwNU1Bh2IUTm21p5xc/s1600-h/CIMG4710.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182437046311329986" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjglr7NEnTB4YeOtL6zfvE4VC2yGKXXF3No2aGGL1K2QM4mpcakbVwOpf7likOxUqbO7BTn8QnxKYof2N39_-9Pi89ApmMvqEGqDqO7A-_kwTPt7S4_2qhW7GuDlilwNU1Bh2IUTm21p5xc/s320/CIMG4710.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />That evening, we drove to a camp on the Zambezi where we had tea as the sun was setting and, after dinner, fell asleep quickly.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div>The next morning we drove to the border where we met up with our other guide, Andy, and four Norwegian guests, Gro, Willy, Anna, and Erling. On the shore, we were standing in Zambia but about halfway across the Zambezi river, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana, and Namibia meet at one point. We hopped on a small boat and quickly crossed into Botswana, bypassing the three day line of people, cars and trucks waiting for the official ferry (pictured below).<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXmkyBTV7bHToemH9nxZjedU8nfiGGobxf2Xa6Teasd-o760mElZDtDfSe5mXoAg2iJwAK1Fi7Ltt-xtlRNlx-JYcdKX3ecb5B4_PmbUGSO3iytCQM3RKHQ1pIceRTHcH67f5RGKPH5Jg/s1600-h/CIMG4722.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182437029131460786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXmkyBTV7bHToemH9nxZjedU8nfiGGobxf2Xa6Teasd-o760mElZDtDfSe5mXoAg2iJwAK1Fi7Ltt-xtlRNlx-JYcdKX3ecb5B4_PmbUGSO3iytCQM3RKHQ1pIceRTHcH67f5RGKPH5Jg/s320/CIMG4722.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Once we cleared customs, we drove to Kasane and hopped on a boat for a tour around Chobe National Park. Our first animal sighting was a herd of impalas.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4TSek4uw-3pqUOM5EYpc2ifzGhany4IegzlLwfn8uFWX4o45ieqOt6D5JH3XOHrFiqxEvZtzN02v0-JrhgyNE-FYHBZT71om5cdgvdGPmo_pxz4hkdj9ASN0izrT1Ihd28ytotoYu7Bbw/s1600-h/CIMG4745.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182437003361656994" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4TSek4uw-3pqUOM5EYpc2ifzGhany4IegzlLwfn8uFWX4o45ieqOt6D5JH3XOHrFiqxEvZtzN02v0-JrhgyNE-FYHBZT71om5cdgvdGPmo_pxz4hkdj9ASN0izrT1Ihd28ytotoYu7Bbw/s320/CIMG4745.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Next, we saw kudus (pictured below), followed by a family of elephants bathing, hippopotamuses and more baboons than I can count.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyBIPY03hK_DRX9JrGjj-YikdRSJIC1pZqPu4dyq9AmcUZNyKwDjqwt4q6xtRMvLB_PN34nodwm5XeBZu49-5AlZy39h2L3iVVnnjjk040T0nlLB9Sb6-JLzEmixSxsxTqLxMs0wO93Mc5/s1600-h/CIMG4819.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182436990476755090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyBIPY03hK_DRX9JrGjj-YikdRSJIC1pZqPu4dyq9AmcUZNyKwDjqwt4q6xtRMvLB_PN34nodwm5XeBZu49-5AlZy39h2L3iVVnnjjk040T0nlLB9Sb6-JLzEmixSxsxTqLxMs0wO93Mc5/s320/CIMG4819.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />After the boat ride, we drove to Kasane airport and met up with a bush pilot. Since there aren't many improved roads in northern Botswana, traveling by car takes a lot of time. Fortunately there are many little runways around the country so traveling by plane is quick and easy. The flight to Kingspool took less than an hour, but covering that distance in a car would have taken more than 12 hours. A group of warthogs scampered off the runway as we were landing.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzMUOhQg1xNyT5cs6UBC84UKwIFkNragNi1vXCaNgkk-W-LtMIV61A3PcBLZrRnyXRbD-hplJvzGDraf_Jth3QnwSNaAvqW-gXnyMvc63RzIsa6P72aWsg4Llx0AXJI5BZRJ_KAgulOVc/s1600-h/CIMG4823.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182436973296885890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzMUOhQg1xNyT5cs6UBC84UKwIFkNragNi1vXCaNgkk-W-LtMIV61A3PcBLZrRnyXRbD-hplJvzGDraf_Jth3QnwSNaAvqW-gXnyMvc63RzIsa6P72aWsg4Llx0AXJI5BZRJ_KAgulOVc/s320/CIMG4823.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We unloaded our bags from the plane and onto our safari truck then took off on a game drive. We saw more kudus, elephants, and for the first time, a giraffe!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ebhfapg8-UnfWIvFHxMSgurra0IaRZeOoGbHKqmEOQhr-n-OqNifMM-QqsptKMH3wGNcHm_NWas5YYz-mfxYVAZfJOpuIMgScKOgrQ21DKmIwmlJp1ABsoJ0QU2tjncp4RYWJGuTq7cj/s1600-h/New+Image.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182419170657443762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ebhfapg8-UnfWIvFHxMSgurra0IaRZeOoGbHKqmEOQhr-n-OqNifMM-QqsptKMH3wGNcHm_NWas5YYz-mfxYVAZfJOpuIMgScKOgrQ21DKmIwmlJp1ABsoJ0QU2tjncp4RYWJGuTq7cj/s320/New+Image.JPG" border="0" /></a>After the drive we settled into our camp at Linyanti, a private park next to Chobe, that would be home for the next three days. Ellie and I shared a dome tent with cots that was surprisingly nicer than much of our lodging in India. We ate dinner in the common area, a larger tent with removable sides, a big table and lantern. Although there was no running water, we had warm showers from a hanging bucket with a shower head on the bottom and somehow the staff had rigged up a flush toilet. Although the camp was temporary and collapsible, it had all the amenities and comforts of home.<br /><br />The next morning we woke up, bleary eyed but excited, before dawn for our first full day game drive. After following lion tracks all morning, we finally found a group of three males sitting under a tree. There were kudus, giraffes, elephants and a whole host of other animals, but the most exciting sighting were the lions. We tried to find them again after lunch but they had moved. We drove away, slightly upset but were surprised to find them laying nearby in the middle of the road. When you're a lion, I guess you can sleep anywhere you want.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin7Xxr4A6_uHhMcyJ_SZab6lppX_caSSBRze-lXfPmbKA31Op1gL8mRNELQxefJXrMFwGgDqPPJ2PAPBTosYyQstq_HAwgLOz5C8CC-FOK8fLYJUvk4lnUO9ZiMXlzUp9DC2rOky8GVamS/s1600-h/CIMG4905.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182432802883641426" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin7Xxr4A6_uHhMcyJ_SZab6lppX_caSSBRze-lXfPmbKA31Op1gL8mRNELQxefJXrMFwGgDqPPJ2PAPBTosYyQstq_HAwgLOz5C8CC-FOK8fLYJUvk4lnUO9ZiMXlzUp9DC2rOky8GVamS/s320/CIMG4905.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRw6b4QfUypCSj-Nd64Prrf-RH5v3dprr8jrVhyphenhyphenGdyLpTNXoYBTKelwvAEzcKhbYAtWgTsClJimfSJX4w0uNeEQ2cBbUZNduWlewmXeuPqg0ou06yetzczR2Qbt_oHPHqniaPbmeGFM863/s1600-h/CIMG4919.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182432820063510626" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRw6b4QfUypCSj-Nd64Prrf-RH5v3dprr8jrVhyphenhyphenGdyLpTNXoYBTKelwvAEzcKhbYAtWgTsClJimfSJX4w0uNeEQ2cBbUZNduWlewmXeuPqg0ou06yetzczR2Qbt_oHPHqniaPbmeGFM863/s320/CIMG4919.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBs6waWo8c0E41AksNlw338enDVkBXqSuDL41EMk9zIpKfRUp8HsOZUDrgNpe9gtEvBlYPjdfe_8-n7jcGLNdak-tRIVzFEB7f50i3EmXtObTtV6KJYkV8cUiENlMI4I73f_sM_3-UPvT/s1600-h/CIMG4891.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182432850128281714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBs6waWo8c0E41AksNlw338enDVkBXqSuDL41EMk9zIpKfRUp8HsOZUDrgNpe9gtEvBlYPjdfe_8-n7jcGLNdak-tRIVzFEB7f50i3EmXtObTtV6KJYkV8cUiENlMI4I73f_sM_3-UPvT/s320/CIMG4891.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />After driving around more, we stopped for cocktails at sunset.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8ZhRd4W0L6-OaqC57cnSTyuQ9172rt0RHMU_p7c7XJVNoQk9UxqMvb1pVxCa5rb2A67Kqp8vka_W2m1PiR8b7iluPsEPB49E97jde1KqqWvNPdQGIPDm9lOBxYPh1TzC9sFTuHn0ozu9/s1600-h/CIMG4931.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182426716914982914" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI8ZhRd4W0L6-OaqC57cnSTyuQ9172rt0RHMU_p7c7XJVNoQk9UxqMvb1pVxCa5rb2A67Kqp8vka_W2m1PiR8b7iluPsEPB49E97jde1KqqWvNPdQGIPDm9lOBxYPh1TzC9sFTuHn0ozu9/s320/CIMG4931.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOf5WmRwCe69EJjJw1rctTYZZKxLaWqx3gJpm4nKAwCvlFuzZnDF2fwk_Ox7-gM0Q7wNUd0ifts4TZUe7mqL59kXO_kuO4YH4OgjZGhyTe7lxnqLx2QBiXrOAjit7lCtMGxknRwkCVHHSd/s1600-h/CIMG4939.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182426755569688594" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOf5WmRwCe69EJjJw1rctTYZZKxLaWqx3gJpm4nKAwCvlFuzZnDF2fwk_Ox7-gM0Q7wNUd0ifts4TZUe7mqL59kXO_kuO4YH4OgjZGhyTe7lxnqLx2QBiXrOAjit7lCtMGxknRwkCVHHSd/s320/CIMG4939.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />On the ride home, we spotted another group of lions sitting on a termite mound. The two lions on the right are older females while the one on the left is a young male.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKjn6lMn2gn9hXny_9cg-y0KoyInzsDDoakLT6e63GpVLqN-0zUG6MZwcO0uLokKa9-vKSF7raCAwDaWAUm0EtbciWZX8hJDXIWiO8eVLWW4h_ru7RQUoEfFd05R79vqxUpmnOoeAADk3t/s1600-h/CIMG4966.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182426768454590498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKjn6lMn2gn9hXny_9cg-y0KoyInzsDDoakLT6e63GpVLqN-0zUG6MZwcO0uLokKa9-vKSF7raCAwDaWAUm0EtbciWZX8hJDXIWiO8eVLWW4h_ru7RQUoEfFd05R79vqxUpmnOoeAADk3t/s320/CIMG4966.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The morning of the 14th, we left our camp and private game park for a day in Chobe National Park.<br />Pictured below: lifting an elephant bone at the entrance to Chobe NP<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxqq0g0L4-GhNRL6y6KPwLaJ4j7jfnjrL6el9_U26BELufnu04uUwtpdVTnarOHWTL3SQMnCNEt4oVjaAK0Bc6MK25Y84_gvruszPUzU0G8Exnego2TgpLBDMCDLzMUQxVrDy9l66V10CF/s1600-h/CIMG4987.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182413381041528674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxqq0g0L4-GhNRL6y6KPwLaJ4j7jfnjrL6el9_U26BELufnu04uUwtpdVTnarOHWTL3SQMnCNEt4oVjaAK0Bc6MK25Y84_gvruszPUzU0G8Exnego2TgpLBDMCDLzMUQxVrDy9l66V10CF/s320/CIMG4987.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We set out looking for wild dogs but didn't see any that day, or for the rest of the trip. Still the day was a great success since we saw a few zebra herds and gnu or wildebeest.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnIReWVRC09yAbV3X8sCcKeTMnfs-6sIE2SvjUOY3bzDrmJuDlWm-WQzLRj_IaSO7uxauWNq3G-yy7T6_VZBUB9So-PDtCfusTUkwl3egeXikN22yckgzps3X-DvYzRBAeqZjbLIZEc7ss/s1600-h/CIMG5035.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182419192132280258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnIReWVRC09yAbV3X8sCcKeTMnfs-6sIE2SvjUOY3bzDrmJuDlWm-WQzLRj_IaSO7uxauWNq3G-yy7T6_VZBUB9So-PDtCfusTUkwl3egeXikN22yckgzps3X-DvYzRBAeqZjbLIZEc7ss/s320/CIMG5035.JPG" border="0" /></a>The highlight of the day was stopping for lunch at a watering hole and being surrounded by wildebeests and impalas.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRwj5UgONyGK0-OM8ITmv2M8gD4qx1jSoZgUs3dlccgYl1XFB4ORmIgJV6EWqaKeeTCtjH01OgDjSSQgZerJxks79ppp01s1w59KL3vkf10I81IohMO2zcuqtpg_NEK3V9gOdCA7IIYrDI/s1600-h/CIMG5020.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182419209312149474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRwj5UgONyGK0-OM8ITmv2M8gD4qx1jSoZgUs3dlccgYl1XFB4ORmIgJV6EWqaKeeTCtjH01OgDjSSQgZerJxks79ppp01s1w59KL3vkf10I81IohMO2zcuqtpg_NEK3V9gOdCA7IIYrDI/s320/CIMG5020.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The safari trucks generally have an open back with seats for the guests. On most days, the open sides were great and let in a refreshing breeze but that day was different. As we drove back through thick brush, branches bent against the truck and unwound, swinging violently through the cabin. We spent most of the three hour ride back dodging branches and leaning inwards.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNVRpFJ8ptQFZt-gevD1PuQz99VMlz_HJpGMa5g_-fxBgi76AaTf81EYYyk_mjRVUX3F-zCVoGtK77vcgwN19eztFeoYCh_lUdHoPd2LdIJ_kvMPywrKCVNrD8mhAhiISH57Zh5xtBEbvV/s1600-h/CIMG5196.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182419230786985970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNVRpFJ8ptQFZt-gevD1PuQz99VMlz_HJpGMa5g_-fxBgi76AaTf81EYYyk_mjRVUX3F-zCVoGtK77vcgwN19eztFeoYCh_lUdHoPd2LdIJ_kvMPywrKCVNrD8mhAhiISH57Zh5xtBEbvV/s320/CIMG5196.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We were up and driving again early the next morning but all the animals seemed to be hiding. We saw impalas and kudus but nothing that could compare with the zebras and lions from the day before. As usual, we stopped for tea halfway through the morning drive.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_cq_CLEsjeIkmAkB3NtHhYLZ4bAsvzPuGUTjWAXJeMIQd9-EJ9uTBq3Vag7cMapWfppKACwZdxeyfaVp9ExuLPFcCOzW59Xs9GkbqhfJhWAeJyXcDBOf2jP2TFxWJQ6VdIbHqHFYXcS1y/s1600-h/CIMG4866.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182413454055972770" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_cq_CLEsjeIkmAkB3NtHhYLZ4bAsvzPuGUTjWAXJeMIQd9-EJ9uTBq3Vag7cMapWfppKACwZdxeyfaVp9ExuLPFcCOzW59Xs9GkbqhfJhWAeJyXcDBOf2jP2TFxWJQ6VdIbHqHFYXcS1y/s320/CIMG4866.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />A brief stop saved the morning right as we finished the first drive. A herd of more than 50 elephants had taken over a pond and blocked the road back home.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBy-prRMGQi-jfSJsID9rCo4t8jIepD4-i4qz4CXv4tbnfJ9uMOVAkYD9A7f61v_jnwMKAT5TmSJ4otAY0CZjY8cxf-LavGGQtlIXlm_1WGVNmexf0iPMp9fDX8mKrqqJHJfoHtvPWEGua/s1600-h/CIMG5102.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182419200722214866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBy-prRMGQi-jfSJsID9rCo4t8jIepD4-i4qz4CXv4tbnfJ9uMOVAkYD9A7f61v_jnwMKAT5TmSJ4otAY0CZjY8cxf-LavGGQtlIXlm_1WGVNmexf0iPMp9fDX8mKrqqJHJfoHtvPWEGua/s320/CIMG5102.JPG" border="0" /></a>The evening drive was unfortunately less exciting but we did manage to spot a leopard turtle.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlMHSJkkedKtb-lYc6CCuAMceRcS81OZCTXpbTMtS98rNqn2DUoCGm6XGfDRgpZRP-hq6XQu76mVvKQ8FGzKbhL2npH2_EQPcdaMB1cvcAwqhNkOBcFXxojwVBZ8AB6ocSo14L64Sxrc9p/s1600-h/CIMG5115.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182409816218672962" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlMHSJkkedKtb-lYc6CCuAMceRcS81OZCTXpbTMtS98rNqn2DUoCGm6XGfDRgpZRP-hq6XQu76mVvKQ8FGzKbhL2npH2_EQPcdaMB1cvcAwqhNkOBcFXxojwVBZ8AB6ocSo14L64Sxrc9p/s320/CIMG5115.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Next morning, the 16th, we woke up and took a long drive where we saw ostriches and had a nice lunch by a river. Later that day we flew to Vumbara field where we were supposed to drive for a few hours to our next camp, Lechwee.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTw-FCt-W7FPmXmsC8hM2qsiYnot5JsuOIXNXAgkU_KIHxHf6gCGakNojimqd3FaA4d6f3AS8MqCeuFDKty0vlvj0TfBOeNyPBaMLw5-SaLHgc_RmiDTlA7g-GbZkWDvmDOAw5rMjlarVL/s1600-h/CIMG5064.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182413406811332466" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTw-FCt-W7FPmXmsC8hM2qsiYnot5JsuOIXNXAgkU_KIHxHf6gCGakNojimqd3FaA4d6f3AS8MqCeuFDKty0vlvj0TfBOeNyPBaMLw5-SaLHgc_RmiDTlA7g-GbZkWDvmDOAw5rMjlarVL/s320/CIMG5064.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />There was much excitement as we landed since a guide had recently spotted a leopard nearby. After searching fruitlessly for 20 minutes, we were about to give up when our truck broke down. We waited around for a few hours trying to fix the car and eventually had to call for a mechanic. Then the rain began. By the time the car was working again, we were all a bit damp and our spirits were low. Fortunately, as we were leaving, we spotted the leopard from earlier. Since the sun was nearly down at this point, we couldn't make the drive to our next camp and had to stop at the safari operator's closest available camp. That camp happened to have private, permanent rooms with plunge pools and a professional chef. That evening, our group jokingly discussed ways to ensure that our car would break down again the next day.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1kKhIY9U4x5_0qBwxpzm9VvvA0nvizaUmF6Sj-foQAw7uWqbtVQgs4LMJaNivcYrcWfLtvA_Z_6PqNOoWa1gOLCLAvXR1GVI3-mt0t3wx0UbugPAfGWczfYw0Nn_40Oc8Vr4wru4giK-/s1600-h/CIMG5172.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182413415401267074" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1kKhIY9U4x5_0qBwxpzm9VvvA0nvizaUmF6Sj-foQAw7uWqbtVQgs4LMJaNivcYrcWfLtvA_Z_6PqNOoWa1gOLCLAvXR1GVI3-mt0t3wx0UbugPAfGWczfYw0Nn_40Oc8Vr4wru4giK-/s320/CIMG5172.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The next morning, March 17th, we woke up early to drive to Lechwee and get stuck a few times along the way. Once we got into camp, ate and cleaned up, we went canoeing. Aside from a few small frogs, we didn't see much but I was quite happy that the crocodiles and hippopotamuses were somewhere else.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPCtfLCV7r-Vo1GFTQWOYsVMMEHdvE3jePo-II2NcZh3hlDMtAWR_A3C6VceCIBx4S7oYnARssFjtEuv-TQislfq2yULs_NYYVA4xjV6TSNYCiUJVyW626Rp2tqT7rJbgqEeYf__4gniH/s1600-h/CIMG5215.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182409833398542162" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPCtfLCV7r-Vo1GFTQWOYsVMMEHdvE3jePo-II2NcZh3hlDMtAWR_A3C6VceCIBx4S7oYnARssFjtEuv-TQislfq2yULs_NYYVA4xjV6TSNYCiUJVyW626Rp2tqT7rJbgqEeYf__4gniH/s320/CIMG5215.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The 18th was Simon's birthday and accordingly we all sang for him at breakfast. To stay on schedule we needed to get back to Vumbara air field that afternoon. Andy, and the rest of our group, was convinced this would be nearly impossible because the roads were so poor and he arranged for alternative transportation.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH-euu7AU0qdcjXbcG8kLW7kkGVeKHYNn2TyuzSv2DPfY3i5BV0mFGCwxm68Cz7AkXi62d4qaNKndZ9MatkWcCfRQ0J-UqQUm3mqjsoicJKoILPtqqzDqN0XlUHBeI8RtRFPQa_iLeKsFO/s1600-h/CIMG5234.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182413441171070866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH-euu7AU0qdcjXbcG8kLW7kkGVeKHYNn2TyuzSv2DPfY3i5BV0mFGCwxm68Cz7AkXi62d4qaNKndZ9MatkWcCfRQ0J-UqQUm3mqjsoicJKoILPtqqzDqN0XlUHBeI8RtRFPQa_iLeKsFO/s320/CIMG5234.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We took the helicopter to the Vumbara airstrip and waited there for a plane that would take us to Xigera, in the Okavango Delta. The plane was only on the ground for a few minutes since a major thunderstorm was was about to strike but we made it to Xigera with no problems. After landing, we still needed to get to our camp, a small island in the delta. </div><br /><div></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182426781339492402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbClTwdbK4PrydRkwKT5z-1i_gTfMd4FpeHgrH1XSUyyd0lrdicE6JGUT4Q9EJJmy_Kw0E0dW-7_HhTvM2PX9OdXTbzvemAkXt4pSN-_dha4MxrRwPofwAi9VyNsXTgTOuGnyzMo7wg9Yy/s320/CIMG5380.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Since we couldn't walk or drive, we took a mokoro, a traditional canoe made from a dug out tree. Our mokoros were the slightly more modern, fiberglass version. We enjoyed a two hour mokoro ride from the air strip to camp through water lillys and reeds. </div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182409807628738354" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2dj70zy2iGc-94mpUaf49E2RyuND7tIK85MGGzcuYaLTyB7p21B1-fDPmbrW5RpstJm22sJWvmTNHg9LqVcdy6zcjN2TDkiPh1MdJvDk0YSNIP-A8jI0ljxG6kWGqc7CkLXLw1uLn-LWS/s320/CIMG5264.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br />We finally got to camp in the late afternoon and a long, steady rain begain shortly thereafter. We spent that evening huddled in tents, chatting with Simon and the Norweigans.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>The next morning Vic and Andy walked around the island with us, explaining the traditional uses for a variety of plants and berries. Although we saw leopard and elephant tracks the only notable sightings were impalas and giraffes. Later that day Andy gave a presentation on the Okavango delta and the vast Kalahari sands. The most interesting fact he mentioned was that 95% of all islands in the delta started as termite mounds. Later that evening we took another mokoro ride and everyone got to try their hand at steering a mokoro. I spent a few minutes prodding around with the stick and not moving the boat much at all before finally figuring out how to move myself around in circles. Steering those canoes with the grace and ease the mokoroers have is quite a skill. We stopped off at an island for our last sunset cocktails and found a pair of old elephant tusks.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFB5MJGwdPrPOeUxSmPad-RRxpWTgKruV2XkNqBGPnPLwdzuGmCcTKtsgY-R7eaLVytKw0VPByRUb4S2Vv9O3FGgZP2xUd8L0VjSMfpaxlRR6h9vr7-oyYzhhx1G7rCo1Zm55F89UE2pBV/s1600-h/CIMG5324.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182409781858934546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFB5MJGwdPrPOeUxSmPad-RRxpWTgKruV2XkNqBGPnPLwdzuGmCcTKtsgY-R7eaLVytKw0VPByRUb4S2Vv9O3FGgZP2xUd8L0VjSMfpaxlRR6h9vr7-oyYzhhx1G7rCo1Zm55F89UE2pBV/s320/CIMG5324.JPG" border="0" /></a> </div><br /><div>Along the way, we saw a few frogs and snakes and fortunately no crocodiles!</div><br /><div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6T2MXc7ugRUjvqkFWrwCCjaBrfXDfTCUS5DDkPLZT4dYmB3CDIv79t_bPYZBvxoGSTojjLgndcd_abJsc-7ToG7IEkGr_ruKu7xFdoivD21hteAbVUVrRULx_EjCDFA_9CCByVA-9mw0x/s1600-h/CIMG5266.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5182409794743836450" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6T2MXc7ugRUjvqkFWrwCCjaBrfXDfTCUS5DDkPLZT4dYmB3CDIv79t_bPYZBvxoGSTojjLgndcd_abJsc-7ToG7IEkGr_ruKu7xFdoivD21hteAbVUVrRULx_EjCDFA_9CCByVA-9mw0x/s320/CIMG5266.JPG" border="0" /></a>That evening was our last but certainly not the least exciting. When we returned from the mokoro trip, our guide stopped the boat a few meters away to point out an elephant walking around the campsite. Unfortunately our Norweigan friend's tent was directly under a fruit tree and the elephant was quite keen on eating. Ellie and I returned to our tent to freshen up but Erling and Gro could not because the elephant was still busy eating outside their tent. Eventually the elephant left, but not before overturning and collapsing their tent. </div><br /><div></div><br /><div>The next, and final, morning at breakfast Erling and Gro looked a bit groggy. Apparently the elephant had returned for a midnight snack and woke them up as it was picking fruit. The elephant was not satisfied to just eat and became curious about the tent. Fortunately the tent stayed upright this time, but the elephant did stick its trunk inside while Erling and Gro were still there.<br /><br /><br /><div>We took one final mokoro ride back to the airstrip and flew from there to Maun, Botswana. After a round of hugs, Simon went off to another safari, Willy, Anna, Erling and Gro headed back to Norway and Ellie and I tried to find a hotel.</div></div></div></div></div></div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-71719140936644872002008-03-21T18:14:00.000-04:002008-03-21T12:14:33.964-04:00Goa, India<div>After Ajanta, we took an overnight train back to Bombay, checked into a hotel early in the morning and after freshening up, spent the day in the city. That rest, however, was short lived and we checked out of the hotel that evening to catch another overnight train to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goa">Goa</a>. </div><br /><div></div><br /><div>We spent the first two days in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goa">Panaji or Panjim</a>, the capital of Goa when it was a Portuguese colony.<br /></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174471199851132594" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-8Rn5HzeBlmpkiRkU2F8en-9gaZOhQ7OhsUcA0MIBGXTDB2WxinvlHRKRqkB6EvxWnLgxS8Owy3YKaazd-ikYOuxgMx3us_Aclwb4OtRIgNLYK2gCPQY00YCaUJh9JCEMOxIO2zNsU4dn/s320/CIMG4558.JPG" border="0" />Though most people visit Goa only for the beaches, we found the winding back streets and brightly colored houses quite charming.<br /><br /><div><br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174472076024461058" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibglXhM9i8sKaYOAT9j99A7RxlmtMCXhsvjQu7EYeUKwk_fA3Qq0QobCmkOWE6ZY_6KxYaWkRpAz04QQ4GTOzIdA-O5oFYrXRX_WzMIlG2Fz-XUPKvKtiAwqsYBtwfh8OThNOvmtBf40wS/s320/CIMG4578.JPG" border="0" /> Portuguese colonial rule ended in 1961 and as one of the last colonial strongholds, Goa has retained much of that influence. There may not seem to be anything special about the street above, but for India the lack of cows is notable. The effect of missionaries in Goa has not been forgotten as the area is home to one of India's highest concentrations of Christians. The Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception church (pictured below), built in 1541, is one of the town's most famous landmarks.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174471217031001794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEickVdTkUSle06n56_1wlJENt6OqKOx_Oji9_WEA5OBrihPj_BvSFhAL7BtZwXYSScDoJLrNNMfSmfFpLLIHcllSI2oUOFfN5j9r3l1bW3IRCiWmY6Ft04O1J9ScfSzTEzot2F0TgfLdZsN/s320/CIMG4563.JPG" border="0" />The food, however, blends the best of both Indian and Portuguese cuisine - curried fish goes well with pastries from the bakery. </div><br /><div>Pictured below: Chili peppers set out to dry along one of Goa's narrow streets<br /><br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174472063139559154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FQMRvKw9aBGtpIP34yEvw61TndC3IFzDgInsdb3GI_2_ISMOwOlu65Vsw7XJ3ho20LZDgu4XSorU5t7iLYklEkWh3PHGt8f04_C95Kb6jG8HsAA3T8h6PyRW6wYzVIpS-hiKiSPm9GK2/s320/CIMG4576.JPG" border="0" /><br />We spent one day walking around town where we saw an interesting Hindu temple and a few smaller churches.<br /><br /><div><br /></div><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174471225620936402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7CY6vTirG7nWCEsYsrzZs8j_UkQqpriuI_DHGGx5V-76Sy8wwEuccoHbbbtxwkHRwv334HY9jpL5BO4yJ-v5IhF84BVVZzZpkuQSVdR4ZV8qv0HFNDyldqrBC5Wf6Syi-UiZnIWqEvgr9/s320/CIMG4564.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><br />The next day we tried to take a cooking course, but unfortunately found our instructor as knowledgeable about Indian cuisine as we were. Fortunately though the extra time that day gave us the opportunity to update blogs and get in touch with loved ones.<br /><br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174471247095772898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMpSPE_0ne-5npII9zSaGhuPm97TCIlZQQdz9wuwDCOW6iygf8g9UAnlmytfDDZNS4Tp0YuGKGNKI5kGOOmSFg_aKomcfrPe42JBBupMRKjGHDzubmt71O8CAOaN0LZz4TGzdGbyAnoql9/s320/CIMG4566.JPG" border="0" /><br />The next morning we headed to the bus station and spent the morning on two buses, heading towards the beaches. We arrived in Palolem slightly after noon and walked through a few local's back yards before finding our hotel. The word hotel is somewhat relative as there are no real hotels, at least in the western sense, only a few people renting out bamboo shacks.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174543488445691682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVcP5e8YNoivkz4z6LGsEciBahwErJoc_X0EaBn1cEPJP3duSHUzFV65A5BYwdW8u2yBoqGPcUGpGJ7GGgrNLzeaoK_Zrdxi27cW8g0D05nS3IQ9yWlVrs02aevaLYakFxwdS-KiwW_DO-/s320/CIMG4608.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><br />The town caters largely to tourists but there is still a local fisherman population that's not entirely tourism related. Aside from one or two businesses, there are no two storey buildings to be seen and most businesses and hotels are strictly made of bamboo.<br /><br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174543501330593586" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNqMXGoSNHaz_Kqk7ZtZAwtov0IUvQzZvoGMGzm7zDi2sNz9-Gk7xsHiSG8kduPeQfyOePXLnGUJNqocSYqcTJIv-lu_1WxjOv5AfvNNIEODMk6mlUoSVZcQpA4DyW9ain__Veaho3a3Ki/s320/CIMG4607.JPG" border="0" /><br />We spent two days on the beach and one exploring nearby Patnam beach. The two beaches are nearly identical in that they are both about 2km long and crescent shaped with brilliant white sand. One of the few identifying features is the small island just at the north of Palolem right next to our hotel (see photo above), while Patnam had less defined, rocky outcroppings at both ends. Unfortunately I didn't bring my camera out until sunset at the very last night so please excuse these not so clear pictures of Palolem.<br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174542552142821138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRsjU-61DrTMHcSl1J3LBGjDuqytZF_VxTGkXKnr_GpBRWtBsDtdCVbW8-xD2kBZiUbeUnCAybHSncf_ev53u76pbHyU3uYf0dYqQNJqd1sNf5Xiwa4YLUpn55L6jPGR9iuxc-2Srslqq8/s320/CIMG4605.JPG" border="0" /> We rented a scooter for about $5 and headed north to Patnam beach. After traveling over the same stretch of road about five times, we finally found the small turnoff for the beach and parked our bike for the day.</div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174545829202868082" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbBsYhJ8fE0wmzHIzEbLu8ShezFEDPRqWl3WF6p1pgdVPmRA4Omybyb4Z9_swX8wUrgnba9VxM7cdcgLlPoFmcATClQdtwar9F0AK3wZoR3oIPkd19SYaxPTWWlOumKrpIL_IFDXy145T/s320/CIMG4585.JPG" border="0" /></div>The palm trees and small huts are unique in Palolem and Patnam, most of Goa's other beaches are more developed.<br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174545812022998882" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ88RO3s4EuGiEOwNjJz5R7Grx3a-VZs6RyAmXf58sIrGWQRXws6j7R5WiEbgYeJ1eonw3LMNKcPYcKW_QNeUxkqaKcV-qvIMjgrRj_R80qyy89h8jiy1COi2QbkyEcjibJ-MIoQ6q4bHA/s320/CIMG4587.JPG" border="0" /></div>We spent one day on Patnam's nearly deserted beach. Unfortunately the Arabian Sea was not as clear as the water in Thailand, but the water was a cool and refreshing break from the 90+ degree days.<br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174545781958227794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfI9cCHHxmRyR9VoJAdBNnnaBc4Me007Ez82rY46v-mfVecEalP1hkZHVt7KTIW3LN7ejZTxK0iTlzIL8gpn5cCLQd4awOkYMqE_mrnyRqkyFUE31IFhawu0xV9DSoGUoEFY-lQIb92FZ0/s320/CIMG4581.JPG" border="0" /></div>The photo below gives a good idea of the "development" in Patnam and Goa.<br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5174545769073325890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjyc5aIeDN71yFOZkDgcQdl8dqxJxjzaFVjuuz1uDT4QHHjqjLtWGJMVCLOtn7NKUZB7XYkoBvJayi0ZKxsjgQGjN_pmkWgq91JWmUx0xGaP4EOkMYHwoqrCC0BxHrTuCbWZW-CU7g8Tr0/s320/CIMG4599.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br /><br />The few days in Palolem and Patnam were a great way to unwind from the sensory overload that is India. Unfortunately we couldn't leave straight from the beach and had to take a bus then a bus then a taxi then a train then a taxi then a plane before we arrived in our final destination, Livingstone, Zambia more than 50 hours later. One upside of the trip was that we had enough time in Bombay to enjoy a few glasses of chai tea and dinner in our favorite restaurant before leaving the country.</div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-44304453660546626822008-03-21T14:29:00.000-04:002008-03-21T08:29:29.512-04:00Buddhist Caves at AjantaWe took an overnight train from Bombay to Aurangabad, a town a few hundred kilometers to the west. After a great deal of confusion, a two hour train ride in the opposite direction, a lot of bargaining with cab drivers and a few hours in a car, we finally arrived in Ajanta, home of the famed <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ajanta_Caves">Buddhist Caves</a> .<br /><br /><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit3EoCIWxSuWLkJ-yoA5edR7ql3D_hpZqzf1s3u3bIoN5F8oI732Lb9IHvvev52wUqWnPPRAQV6KG7FDk6r6BYIOqOk2CGIjLgv-_9D_ldjDwuWhMw5AeJBLv6DBr0tRdmZNgcUlwtKLjA/s1600-h/CIMG4545.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172813556169291922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit3EoCIWxSuWLkJ-yoA5edR7ql3D_hpZqzf1s3u3bIoN5F8oI732Lb9IHvvev52wUqWnPPRAQV6KG7FDk6r6BYIOqOk2CGIjLgv-_9D_ldjDwuWhMw5AeJBLv6DBr0tRdmZNgcUlwtKLjA/s320/CIMG4545.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The complex consists of 29 caves dug into the rock wall of a horse shoe shaped river bank. The caves are believed to have been created in two phases. Only five caves were excavated in the first phase which took place in the second century AD. The second, and much larger, phase began in the 400s AD when the remaining 24 caves were excavated.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsYyYAKlpcct8LdeovesfK3j8qrxIB8TObb6sDLqwPDSqLquKP-cgK28LQcj53V8bjmNL9iJtkW8PozKMWD9l14tRh46bIqgagq973GSpg65jxRXhWxnhS-AUxAyRQavoEKLgKBj8iwlsB/s1600-h/CIMG4501.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172817756647307474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsYyYAKlpcct8LdeovesfK3j8qrxIB8TObb6sDLqwPDSqLquKP-cgK28LQcj53V8bjmNL9iJtkW8PozKMWD9l14tRh46bIqgagq973GSpg65jxRXhWxnhS-AUxAyRQavoEKLgKBj8iwlsB/s320/CIMG4501.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The later caves feature grand carvings of Buddha and in many the original paint is still visible.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_f-x2QpgziX0WsGmBqoQXkxkicGco8xDeiO_6W7QyOJiOqZja7slOHyllidwVArANni3HHT1gLBLiI-5gD3RubNS9dOPnowmwzI8bcp4xle_GA7Tc7RJQpXB2uN4XAkElS4SPV80y0nxE/s1600-h/CIMG4489.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172817769532209378" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_f-x2QpgziX0WsGmBqoQXkxkicGco8xDeiO_6W7QyOJiOqZja7slOHyllidwVArANni3HHT1gLBLiI-5gD3RubNS9dOPnowmwzI8bcp4xle_GA7Tc7RJQpXB2uN4XAkElS4SPV80y0nxE/s320/CIMG4489.JPG" border="0" /></a> Some of the paintings are simply aesthetic patterns, like the one shown above, while many depict religious scenes or the Buddha, like the one shown below.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172808256179648626" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCCuG4os5xWU2c8tomb9S0CKGnyDOvMhmIll74xVXogMlB-sVVP3olYMG1Ob_f89u-e9gKEetCYky0B7Frj6tohbRBWUc6E6wSfc4VKAPQPUEmSWpgT4h7KqOpIfuooZ1leOmf3eaDAQy8/s320/CIMG4510.JPG" border="0" /></p><p></p><p>Some of the caves are tall and narrow, like the one shown below, but most of the caves are short and very wide with column as supports, like the second picture.</p><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0c8IF_gDlpJeUqKE9hpV0KvJzg3UWqpDAA3hyphenhyphenoPwPb3qEMIBKx3V1ockN6BaD6ZHfz0QIkS1snsYNFHRxAodtG0aIB8gKCNgzNFq658_oD04PrLu34YbEfLiBclQ6BKjdJbCio-Da-_T/s1600-h/CIMG4548.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172813577644128418" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0c8IF_gDlpJeUqKE9hpV0KvJzg3UWqpDAA3hyphenhyphenoPwPb3qEMIBKx3V1ockN6BaD6ZHfz0QIkS1snsYNFHRxAodtG0aIB8gKCNgzNFq658_oD04PrLu34YbEfLiBclQ6BKjdJbCio-Da-_T/s320/CIMG4548.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUzjcmcAy-rGKDDWdbuAlq5LN5o8kXYwMAJB95eZ5KEG7yVUhZPxZJc9jqgzrH7AsdKZRZoyDzCBpcNk-AN2sRY1WZ6w6sCVaERlZeKlkcRINgxFjRzs9NJ-6hmD0ghyLwuh0GVnOskzrA/s1600-h/CIMG4552.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172813603413932210" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUzjcmcAy-rGKDDWdbuAlq5LN5o8kXYwMAJB95eZ5KEG7yVUhZPxZJc9jqgzrH7AsdKZRZoyDzCBpcNk-AN2sRY1WZ6w6sCVaERlZeKlkcRINgxFjRzs9NJ-6hmD0ghyLwuh0GVnOskzrA/s320/CIMG4552.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The main Buddha carvings are the centerpiece of most caves but my favorites were often simple decorations leading in to the caves (above) or on support columns (below).<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172810356418656386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixO9WJw0LDqOkgXrA0vFTew8mCRYhodYJAsQacHPrF719FOyhsiqexINDa0cuwbF3Qx8i5HDtyVnpNy7ucnMUTKRb2Vt9j0lu81QSIZnl1pcWKlIVkUruRcAgWGNr8fuWdLowiQ7IAj4sq/s320/CIMG4543.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>As we were leaving, a group of school children swarmed Ellie and I asking if they could take pictures with us. We were all too happy to oblige, but only on the condition that we could take a picture with them.</p><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5jK0jxnmyotihf1PZpvHYAxYkeA9SH_avqBjgNVTPa9Pwt6sgdjaq2pMTGOGsV29FAjl1l6or7Lqxx7BvqkdKNw0GAd1L33RJ9Ty9YcOehHSniXa8fXhttpYmiqpgNco44cK_1B62E3J/s1600-h/IMG_3975.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172816214754048194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5jK0jxnmyotihf1PZpvHYAxYkeA9SH_avqBjgNVTPa9Pwt6sgdjaq2pMTGOGsV29FAjl1l6or7Lqxx7BvqkdKNw0GAd1L33RJ9Ty9YcOehHSniXa8fXhttpYmiqpgNco44cK_1B62E3J/s320/IMG_3975.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p>After a few hours in the caves, the sun was beginning to set and we needed to get back to Aurangabad to catch the train. After a few minutes waiting by the road, we waved down a creaky old bus and hopped on. There were three passengers on bench seat and a few standing in the aisle but all were surprisingly helpful as we struggled to find a place for our over sized baggage.</p><p>We got back to Aurangabad in time for a big dinner and a brief stop at an internet cafe before boarding the train back to Bombay.</p>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-36629200833772731832008-03-09T15:02:00.001-04:002008-03-09T09:11:11.773-04:00Bombay / Mumbai, IndiaWe left Jaisalmer on the morning of February 22nd and took two flights ending in Delhi before hopping on an overnight train to Bombay. After a quick shower, we grabbed lunch next door at Leopold Cafe and Bar, a famous local bar that's been in operation since 1871. Our hotel and Leopolds are both located in Colaba an area of southern Bombay, popular with tourists Indian industrialists. We wandered around Colaba for a few hours in search of Flora Fountain (pictured below) where book vendors sell used and new photocopied books most days. After a few hours we found ourselves with a small library of books and a great feel for the area's British colonial charm.<br /><br /><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijoH-HR7Tu1-soElWwCKhFcHrr0HHn7c3i7Aurj2dbQLkwGQzebkaDSmZiGEZY3rk7roHyUNr6crgainMIUWFFnholtJSZ-gEziwsdXFwxuxu6wpTJBsqcR5XFQaddX9yv9uk4jcHAl0JN/s1600-h/CIMG4431.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172799047769765938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijoH-HR7Tu1-soElWwCKhFcHrr0HHn7c3i7Aurj2dbQLkwGQzebkaDSmZiGEZY3rk7roHyUNr6crgainMIUWFFnholtJSZ-gEziwsdXFwxuxu6wpTJBsqcR5XFQaddX9yv9uk4jcHAl0JN/s320/CIMG4431.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br /><p>The next morning we woke up early for a day packed with sightseeing. The first stop was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mani_Bhavan">Mani Bhavan</a>, the Gandhi's home base in Bombay from 1917 to 1934. After Gandhi's death, the home was converted into a museum containing his photos, letters and books. Shown below is the humble room where he spent much of his time.</p><br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172792107102615506" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDjuhQtbG3520K-_Ph7zQCntnkmjayNchfTI4uWnMvdhxVQquZr_iAVGoAp1J6bLVmFsWIq-4YuHzG-zbn3IbfeV_GaszvpQ2wOKNEL6y5Ab3THp0ewQDRAWF7imgRbvvH4gIBCuH66hoT/s320/CIMG4390.JPG" border="0" /></p><p>From Mani Bavan, we walked south to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Girgaum_Chowpatti">Chowpatti Beach</a>. Hindus flock to the beach each year for the ten day <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ganesh_Chaturthi">Ganesh Chaturthi </a>celebration when they immerse idols of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ganapati">Ganesha </a>in the Arabian sea. Many of the buildings along the beach are leftover from the British colonial era - they are often dilapidated but still beautiful.<br /></p><p><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172792094217713602" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEite3UiK9CfMoKHAYwKSxe0WkLgDG3r9iZdqOSINbtBluhhQWa_0p_fIRlTL8IJc2Fa7kW7603amULSTveMnwmCSvcO5YFdLDJUyGqp-1fv_xF6Rm6lIm0LoLMacIZJBBZyj-0RelPRuNhA/s320/CIMG4393.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><br /><p></p><br /><p>Occasionally we would walk by something and I would think "this looks just like Hong Kong," or "this is a modern city just like any other" then I would see something like this and remember what makes Bombay unique.</p><br /><p>Pictured below: an ox card parallel parked in downtown Bombay<br /></p><br /><p></p><br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172792081332811698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpqGKoffFYuWeMkBBYBh5loMO_6DNIjuRs7sd66QdTFkbyUKcdDQO_Tuw8vaCyRx8f_owuNnUHNlvQcLbGkU9rsSJQ-N5mjyhTKb4FYLzZURkyimWvlIarTbM3aMZ8HIWsx48qjrI2ZFvb/s320/CIMG4396.JPG" border="0" /></p>From Chowpatti beach, we took a taxi to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crawford_Market">Crawford Market</a>. The Gothic style building was completed in 1869 and features carvings (on the far left side in the photo below) by Rudyard Kipling's father, Lockwood Kipling. The inside is packed with stalls of vendors selling everything that you might find in a modern grocery store, from personal hygiene products to poultry.<br /><br /><p></p><br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172795482946910178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk_JzcytyHSnubS4NQiGAG5wjxoCSuYvbu9cvYUjjE2tGN08MKp-zO9AhI9bEhNz60fux_r2_dG6gW-Q2aSyBtdZ4a0XMTk82zJ4bu5h1_XyIVfDu8PxAtNNCxhH5XokKRSrJNVCnjCG3O/s320/CIMG4402.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p>Sadly most of the vendors were closed as it was Sunday so we decided to come back the next day and head to the waterfront in the meanwhile. The most prominent landmark in Bombay's harbor is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gateway_of_India">Gateway to India</a>, a 26 meter tall basalt archway built to commemorate King George's visit in 1911. Unfortunately the arch is currently under construction. The adjacent <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taj_Mahal_Palace_&_Tower">Taj Mahal Palace </a>hotel is a prominent landmark as well. The hotel could easily be confused with a colonial era government building but was actually built by an Indian industrialist after he was refused admission into a "whites only" hotel. We walked north from the arch to the Churchgate area, passing by Oval Maiden along the way. The park is one of the few places in Bombay where people can gather to play cricket. Unfortunately there is not enough space for everyone to play so many games overlap with wickets from different games less than ten meters apart. </p><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172795504421746674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh44HFHTipDIPMnOVeHgayQli9wR5-yvvq4gmm8kQ16QugOw-IBfeMzBjG1ofZPmTNOWJ5W_YKi8TJlq-nQZcrBp2Pd_wXS7l83BLCJu41IhFn6n7leWIqzTdYM0y6yfwWCJoZOEBclCO-O/s320/CIMG4415.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p>Finally, we walked northwest passing by Flora Fountain to what is perhaps Bombay's finest monument to British imperialism, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victoria_Terminus">Victoria Terminus</a>. Though most people still refer to the train station as Victoria Terminus or simply VT, its name has formally been changed to Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus in accordance with the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indian_Renaming_Controversy">controversial renaming policy</a>. The train station, built in 1888, is so large that it defies capture in one single photograph. The design, however, is so intricate that one single photograph could not do justice to the building's Victorian Gothic style. Hopefully the two following two photos will give a sense of buildings scale and rich complexity. </p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqABclRA_47Wcmwdr3swJzC3pIRlv-eE0n29atV7aATx2F-qKDaqokHYUn8oNiz2ssZ-FHx_0D7xDViwxMPfOW7O1M_pnWua1hosmxJ89codkYdDo7Y28PYq1QF6ZN2m4GlFRFEphOUDss/s1600-h/CIMG4432.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172799060654667842" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqABclRA_47Wcmwdr3swJzC3pIRlv-eE0n29atV7aATx2F-qKDaqokHYUn8oNiz2ssZ-FHx_0D7xDViwxMPfOW7O1M_pnWua1hosmxJ89codkYdDo7Y28PYq1QF6ZN2m4GlFRFEphOUDss/s320/CIMG4432.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p>Having walked all over the city, we decided to take a taxi back to our hotel in Colaba where we both promptly collapsed in bed, exhausted from our day of rigorous sightseeing. </p><p><br /></p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Lu1-NMJJ4fWkA71qjtDGF8uR9nGtGtXMqK1rXKco7VUXGQeXVvzqSzoee-FSpQkbUVEQerusVZOGrZOqixv-2OexGr60LwyXwxRq4aXUGTJNS4DZmXDKRqmjriq_DQfz3bwE-skNyBLP/s1600-h/CIMG4434.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172795530191550482" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Lu1-NMJJ4fWkA71qjtDGF8uR9nGtGtXMqK1rXKco7VUXGQeXVvzqSzoee-FSpQkbUVEQerusVZOGrZOqixv-2OexGr60LwyXwxRq4aXUGTJNS4DZmXDKRqmjriq_DQfz3bwE-skNyBLP/s320/CIMG4434.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgya_QkE7lynhoAAZLBIpRzXL9Ll9RJhieb80KGImpcdyTrSTntDPcJSd5htqO_Yjgf204rh6x7Cgz4d34KiecM3qJ0HqY5-yiVuAQ_t087e0VZqgeg88EOdcRIVIVk6BZ_Qg0lxOOU7dC/s1600-h/CIMG4431.JPG"></a>The next morning we headed back to Victoria Terminus where we spent a frustratingly long time waiting in line for train tickets. Fortunately we were able to get the tickets we needed and managed to make some friends along the way. We spent the remainder of the day exploring Bombay's now bustling fruit, spice, textile, jewelry, and poultry markets which all happened to be right next to each other. Along the way, we stopped to try <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paan">sweet paan</a>. The local specialty is made of coconut, Indian spices and a marachismo cherry wrapped in a betel leaf.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgctfq7Q6yN_hhCUAq8cNz3DehmHab1GI1fCC0QnvzUVos4GNMAEoVDFqPBYH7gwen8_BHACcKoaFKK_bN9pAexsv6FyLFBWzNzqJ15wIo-9o377ZKJrAwGC_DHlsOowd8mMH1MarTmx_xY/s1600-h/CIMG4432.JPG"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtir68kichpET6Z_H97iZYpxklvO3PmBXOy5l8MQqlY5Frhzx0lR1pH7JMVzmuqo5Rg2klMP8zgzO3APHTJO4TdD0UwOJ-rOEbFD1mXOzPmI9hbSnEQaIFGyk5lAWVmxUrc0ekK4xTH49t/s1600-h/CIMG4441.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172792055563007906" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtir68kichpET6Z_H97iZYpxklvO3PmBXOy5l8MQqlY5Frhzx0lR1pH7JMVzmuqo5Rg2klMP8zgzO3APHTJO4TdD0UwOJ-rOEbFD1mXOzPmI9hbSnEQaIFGyk5lAWVmxUrc0ekK4xTH49t/s320/CIMG4441.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The next morning we took an hour long ferry ride out to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elephanta_Caves">Elephanta Island</a>, one of many small islands in the Bombay harbor. The island, while still wrapped in a haze of pollution, seems far away from the hustle and bustle of Bombay. The most prominent attraction, and really the only reason anyone visits the island, is a series of caves containing Buddhist statues.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhofoKy5y__aWd6B-saANXl8jLU-qWxk5rGN_miCXXZC4SQ84LDQTqhrDIzmyLtpg8kUjU7UbOqsTYvAyHZ7NapPYpsXATOI-24Xt3BCD1k6qYv88lGo1yfQ2aSHiVb7AWTIFOIwMi49mIC/s1600-h/CIMG4444.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172800671267403874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhofoKy5y__aWd6B-saANXl8jLU-qWxk5rGN_miCXXZC4SQ84LDQTqhrDIzmyLtpg8kUjU7UbOqsTYvAyHZ7NapPYpsXATOI-24Xt3BCD1k6qYv88lGo1yfQ2aSHiVb7AWTIFOIwMi49mIC/s320/CIMG4444.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The caves, thought to date as far back as 890AD, were entirely man made and cover an area of 60,000 sq ft. Unfortunately the lighting was very poor and I didn't have a tripod so if you're interested in more photos, please check out the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elephanta_Caves">wikipedia entry</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaQkQEAnlsTBbEgF-s2I6hXQlII86RKLUIF9IwhHlT6tNmkLZYwkU7MqFOKibF-5-NYMgkaw67hbv5UTRGtPjRQsp4IWDCAb_PMMHsp-uUqb_PJWRAaBH4yf7EfQXpKBBkdxU2KPnrb7M3/s1600-h/CIMG4447.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172800658382501970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaQkQEAnlsTBbEgF-s2I6hXQlII86RKLUIF9IwhHlT6tNmkLZYwkU7MqFOKibF-5-NYMgkaw67hbv5UTRGtPjRQsp4IWDCAb_PMMHsp-uUqb_PJWRAaBH4yf7EfQXpKBBkdxU2KPnrb7M3/s320/CIMG4447.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />That evening we left Bombay headed for Ajanta, a more elaborate but less famous group of cave carvings 300km west of the city.<br /><br />Of course, I couldn't post about Bombay without touching on Bollywood. The following link is a song and dance routine from a recent movie, Om Shanti Om. The song, Deewangi Deewangi, is still wildly popular a year on and almost inescapable.<br /><br /><p><a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=ulvHS4ye2Ps">http://youtube.com/watch?v=ulvHS4ye2Ps</a></p><br /><p></p>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-7801233844417659802008-03-01T13:51:00.002-05:002008-03-01T05:15:30.065-05:00Jaisalmer, IndiaWe had an unfortunate 12 hour layover on our flights between Varanasi and our next stop, Jaisalmer. Unfortunately both Ellie and I were too stubborn to get a hotel room for the evening and decided to try our luck in the airport. We quickly got bored and borrowed a luggage cart to go off in search of an internet cafe. Sadly the mission was unsuccessful. When we got back to the airport, a sympathetic airline staffer let us into the premier lounge where we spent the remaining time filling up on snacks and pastries.<br /><div><br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9nheVEhk13qNvwq3YR58L_5KuBkrr7PPl16pDYZ2RIFsa4CweWRtbbm3bv9NB7kzF5SVCKsht6Xem6O4iTYH1_yAZA6WkrVkMgBGGMHAe3FICn7ORiOpIYD06CmKiV1NUYQQAkE-jvx6v/s1600-h/CIMG4153.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172428615430420274" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9nheVEhk13qNvwq3YR58L_5KuBkrr7PPl16pDYZ2RIFsa4CweWRtbbm3bv9NB7kzF5SVCKsht6Xem6O4iTYH1_yAZA6WkrVkMgBGGMHAe3FICn7ORiOpIYD06CmKiV1NUYQQAkE-jvx6v/s320/CIMG4153.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Nearly a full day after leaving Varanasi, we arrived in <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaisalmer">Jaisalmer</a>. The small desert town sits on the border of India and Pakistan in the state of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rajasthan">Rajasthan</a>. Running on chai tea alone, we had enough energy to book a camel safari and grab some real food before falling asleep.<br />Pictured below: lunch in a hotel decorated in the style of the British Raj<br /><br /><div><br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170582559079584050" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtqoJM8iBSdDKzvb6Kfmx41rtrhDo96KFGdG7sOniRsOpy_hNznRHHhwOIUg37gLWvGcTsCSLGotLex5GzwaH2aLDzMGYsXpiM7J0SHQVHHYs_6U8hVQvoLHOpHEpo2RVAIKXJKJ9z5Z5B/s320/IMG_3529.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p>The next day we took a tour through town on a moto-rickshaw. Our first three stops were <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haveli">havelis</a>, or old mansions with intricate carvings.<br /></p><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxg3OFvzvJ1WJM-XXEvD0z00IpkSg75K6_JLYz7gsoFaWb23ZRtnbLltIgHHLQcLVunfyefKKP-deG3ndy78jZSWQH3wSqSW08PtDFwBuMeFxg6ja8MDkaRQR4N7OEclEv1fbKVY2Bhqz/s1600-h/IMG_3591.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170575304879821042" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuWjgOK4Cfsa7XOkQlmRFvk34iybra1fzV11ZfqDMjNIYPoh_NkAGvWBT-f0RtqKq1XGBbH2q1TZjRvOtF3-v1BmhWDZaZa-KeJeqrWB_Dk3T8v0RNkXWzB5-HvZ_wA6lOhnNpFec217X/s320/picresized_th_1203910945_CIMG4173.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><br /><p>Our next stop was the old fort. Perched on a ridge high above the city, the fort is still home to nearly a quarter of the city's residents. Looking out from the top of the fort the city, built from all local materials, seems to blend into its surroundings.<br /></p><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxg3OFvzvJ1WJM-XXEvD0z00IpkSg75K6_JLYz7gsoFaWb23ZRtnbLltIgHHLQcLVunfyefKKP-deG3ndy78jZSWQH3wSqSW08PtDFwBuMeFxg6ja8MDkaRQR4N7OEclEv1fbKVY2Bhqz/s1600-h/IMG_3591.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170569966235472066" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQaxkWikaXdFMK8buAdudeRgNEOFQdxsGbOweemXehf6KxsUpRHiH7iFpjstNCarGPOXPKJWWznkksrNpZ50ZiFWZL3w3BvxzIIHBKiAcpmxsazGoGkEpOZeV9eTy25azemY2C2YLKPtSn/s320/CIMG4183.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><p>The next morning we woke up early so we would not miss the highlights of Jaisalmer's desert festival, camel decorating and camel polo.</p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFwJDiczy5PHJGn1vB-FkQAC9gPxCrRmzTQli2QZlGtfn2QHq1mD3xV5QhhUFaQ6aQaPktoYcpth2mFhxpETh7MzirsMnfdaN0hI-vQO37wHRb-0ZrrfMrVcrS2zdW_Z98g138eWct1Hof/s1600-h/CIMG4247.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172440005683689314" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFwJDiczy5PHJGn1vB-FkQAC9gPxCrRmzTQli2QZlGtfn2QHq1mD3xV5QhhUFaQ6aQaPktoYcpth2mFhxpETh7MzirsMnfdaN0hI-vQO37wHRb-0ZrrfMrVcrS2zdW_Z98g138eWct1Hof/s320/CIMG4247.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><p>We took a moto-rickshaw to a stadium two kilometers outside town where hundreds of locals and tourists were already mulling about before the days festivities. The camel, pictured below, placed in the camel decorating competition. </p><p>Pictured below: an officer from India's equivalent of the Canadian Mounties rides a camel adorned with colored cotton balls and small mirrors<br /></p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170569957645537458" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhER_qTp5BTtkAkiq5GaTPmRPT_iXSDNjciaqKBIZ7cCZOqTijGgAuaEJEwbEcDuZdb8BWBkm3KgspH9JbYaC3KusX4X3REcjoy5XBSEXqL1uYCTRxKgSvG6l-SREA-6m56vKI1M4fvWOo7/s320/CIMG4215.JPG" border="0" /></p>Pictured below: riders from the Camel Polo Association of India, Jaisalmer wait for their match to begin.<br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZHGNQxrEbbuXcX20hyphenhyphencj3h0ox9wvlxjdb-_o1bCLv0y03VJKvDBuWHOwRBG2nv-A8Pxpoyu4Ws-dYKlVVlGpgzUYQN_iq0Sr1Nu_669e8-nKxV8u6ZwTHQ2d6o7sexBnvfOgzxnpi2suC/s1600-h/CIMG4242.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172433631952222018" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZHGNQxrEbbuXcX20hyphenhyphencj3h0ox9wvlxjdb-_o1bCLv0y03VJKvDBuWHOwRBG2nv-A8Pxpoyu4Ws-dYKlVVlGpgzUYQN_iq0Sr1Nu_669e8-nKxV8u6ZwTHQ2d6o7sexBnvfOgzxnpi2suC/s320/CIMG4242.JPG" border="0" /></a>The red shirted team from India's Border Safety Force trounced the local Jaisalmer camel polo team.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxg3OFvzvJ1WJM-XXEvD0z00IpkSg75K6_JLYz7gsoFaWb23ZRtnbLltIgHHLQcLVunfyefKKP-deG3ndy78jZSWQH3wSqSW08PtDFwBuMeFxg6ja8MDkaRQR4N7OEclEv1fbKVY2Bhqz/s1600-h/IMG_3591.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170583357943501122" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxg3OFvzvJ1WJM-XXEvD0z00IpkSg75K6_JLYz7gsoFaWb23ZRtnbLltIgHHLQcLVunfyefKKP-deG3ndy78jZSWQH3wSqSW08PtDFwBuMeFxg6ja8MDkaRQR4N7OEclEv1fbKVY2Bhqz/s320/IMG_3591.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />After eating lunch far too quickly, we hopped in a jeep and drove 35 kilometers outside the city to meet up with our camel drivers. We rode for about two hours that afternoon with temperatures rising above 100 degrees Fahrenheit.<br /><br /></p><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170580690768810274" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7I1x_QDu6xL7oL66tT5PBNaxjJ-NhbObEwSb7fwJ4J7kuhoaThznlpkK2cI3AQcIdR0FYYmD3e_R_N_U424vxg36dkRpcmevJmi12ruJsFxiDa52lCzphzKkJyPmQIg1V-5i-3bc8b0dE/s320/IMG_3605.JPG" border="0" /></div>We spent the majority of the ride in dry, dusty areas like the one pictured above but spent the evening in sand dunes.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCjNdoj-a8HGea3jnP3Yglno7N5veBKjBurJquBUjq0sZbjBUW9IzoU16kkZxNk1ZhcJILg6JLUSQiGdAjnR7fyKlu3vPfVijx6IYUYdBqWqTAeFpC4tk8OjSiRHq3_EED6uw1as3LlIdr/s1600-h/CIMG4280.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172438691423696722" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCjNdoj-a8HGea3jnP3Yglno7N5veBKjBurJquBUjq0sZbjBUW9IzoU16kkZxNk1ZhcJILg6JLUSQiGdAjnR7fyKlu3vPfVijx6IYUYdBqWqTAeFpC4tk8OjSiRHq3_EED6uw1as3LlIdr/s320/CIMG4280.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Pictured above: one of our camel drivers, Hussein, poses on top of a sand dune<br />Pictured below: me romping about the dunes<br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170579956329402642" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQQL6LdpA16_SvZ5RFxURLyGfVjNn3z2rPJFw6A98v1VmkNsf9woVLZdTpBazgrHioX41QUMeDy8o_25HOqxbUlihBtGP9DN9MU30M9rq_F3tRCOEjzlXsqJxGYh4dkXUUWwnCMkfcYnU9/s320/IMG_3616.JPG" border="0" /></div><br />As the sun began to set, another camel caravan walked along a nearby ridge.<br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170569923285799058" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAxGKSoBkxjrrK5wlUampQKw3D0rgUZEw9SwKxRw5ef8iZ0KVDrE867KKWiot0-SJaAV7_B26keY1D9JKSyayHPLtjIjh6Rimb8GGAUXxFpK05Mkio3FyMsBxRewrEW_z68PffCz6gMNcZ/s320/CIMG4298.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><div> </div>So we ran up to the top of the ridge to get a few sunset pictures.<br /><br /><br /><div> <div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170251700568903746" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQyu2iH2ly2G4wpA2f0Ze0nrQZvjA2lX7SDovvRSOHP3eenbYx9WuID1tu59jM5mlkiGmArIFTdUHgfA3thue8JtvGeT0BzLL0TavBgGUoFS_qVf9iBlfhe6J2VplgZ9sPdpW2-AbARcO/s320/CIMG4307.JPG" border="0" /></div> </div><br />As sunset turned to twilight, we turned around to see the gloriously full moon. It gave off so much light that evening that we didn't need a flashlight and our camera tripod cast a shadow. Although the desert was oppressively hot during the day, the temperature plummeted at night and I was happy to wander back to our campsite where my sweater and warm food were waiting.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170251683389034546" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDvWwyJ9WTodSWlIsWKmRpkX7iEEZh8akUX894y5OPqEnNumAqciEGTbW1W36d0h-dxsUIyMcS-9AMetzg3jeknTlgWUvKo2-9q4E3F-RFNrGNBPmUjXl1OZRiFuS7K3VZUZOzIzZu9WiY/s320/CIMG4308.JPG" border="0" /><br />The next morning, our camel drivers prepared a breakfast of chai tea, toast, and jam then saddled up the camels before we headed out.<br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170579711516266754" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4_0rOXydmsT0sehyphenhyphen8N593n6libX0IYmdVXF-BOy4kAAJlgXCLwmQtStcs3fFoewxS5dFs7NsQduP6iucMNq5dDrwJoL8LkuPInXe_bYyV9P8aR5rf9mLrB01leHSP9v3oB6uZTaet_TIc/s320/IMG_3701.JPG" border="0" /><br />The photo above shows me, the camel drivers, and the camels that Ellie and I rode. Everyone, it seems, was happy to be in the picture except my camel, Raj. He was the most cantankerous of all our camels and as a result, I felt the need to give him constant pep talks.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiif5wmiVd1ozumuHmRspetexiaf1e8cy7ZH6MxhzAhcj5FaoNvKe2t1OIkyKPDHMQ4U0B7gNME3OWm44LAtvSbW8HOWFleJjxJjDUMEDWSKGsaDtJzq8NnJ0ZwJfMbV37ImJyTgLTp1tLN/s320/IMG_3698-712234.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiif5wmiVd1ozumuHmRspetexiaf1e8cy7ZH6MxhzAhcj5FaoNvKe2t1OIkyKPDHMQ4U0B7gNME3OWm44LAtvSbW8HOWFleJjxJjDUMEDWSKGsaDtJzq8NnJ0ZwJfMbV37ImJyTgLTp1tLN/s320/IMG_3698-712234.JPG" alt="" border="0" /></a></div><br />Later that day, we visited our camel driver's village. The children came running out to greet us decked in long shirts and salwar kameez. The older women wore beaded saris and nose rings that seemed to cover their entire nose. A closer examination of the photo below shows the large necklaces and bracelets that women in this area traditionally wear.<br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170251030554005522" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho1XLikFVD2D0rNHf3Xd8ARwQbGO8JTCQbCbKlR3PSafSYr2o6gpFTq7TsU3NC2ilUtvNX7vGrZBRdjFkymJ0Nnt7wXaD6z0Acfm9cV2CHsjoyXR7knU5P39vQxB_nlvnJtCcTFF4z8VZR/s320/CIMG4344.JPG" border="0" />The family patriarch spoke enough English to invite us in for chai tea. We sat around sharing our pictures of home while the children peered in curiously.<br /><br /></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5170251043438907426" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMcz5jYbDCrWvn6RaaVQluts1goGjxAPfYFjedVMKta4djCvO7GYePvuLQb8GalqoStTDL5GvJ4XQhbeyZWe5A1e2hLp6QxaDSs4E1_RK6HR9AoMEneNtqj8RmEkrSggH1iqOR7Ue1i7cb/s320/CIMG4343.JPG" border="0" />We rode for another hour before stopping near a small brush to escape the sun and prepare lunch. We read, ate and rested for two hours while the camels wandered around eating whatever brushes they could find. After another hour the camels stopped for water, each drinking about five gallons in as many minutes. Finally, sore and covered in dust, we arrived at our final destination - the camel races. A few thousand, mostly local, spectators had driven 40 kilometers outside the city to watch the races. Apparently 66 camels competed in the ten races but only a little over half of them ever crossed the finish line. Those that did usually barreled into a wall of spectators who hopped out of the way and merrily claimed to have been trampled by the winner.<br /></div><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGH_uoPd56dNPNeLSP47V0sPTvIpDov-HUOZsJaENXr8kG9nqtOb9zd2oT4RQE0LJVSs4NRvCrD1V_C3D-M3Ap5ZgHOLNwRZ-HLQeBfxAV80bXhNreBQlFBITdjaHXmGv8AOcw9SSE_Ucc/s1600-h/CIMG4370.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGH_uoPd56dNPNeLSP47V0sPTvIpDov-HUOZsJaENXr8kG9nqtOb9zd2oT4RQE0LJVSs4NRvCrD1V_C3D-M3Ap5ZgHOLNwRZ-HLQeBfxAV80bXhNreBQlFBITdjaHXmGv8AOcw9SSE_Ucc/s320/CIMG4370.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172711211393595282" border="0" /></a><br />The remaining camels usually rode off perpendicular to the course after a few meters despite their riders best intentions to keep them going straight. Camels are, by their nature, ornery beasts.<br /><div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga4TKwYPVLKPWhyQVcZ1WSgB2RisC-cyC32fuIVtNJtJfwgm8TqH3aKRan9cfgIxBZGfIczoPIv2_2Yp30FMG9Za_dQ0B-owbj-m9ndYly__5n1zOsZGzPO7Ej6AdkatlfRsHIS3QMXSjG/s1600-h/CIMG4365.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga4TKwYPVLKPWhyQVcZ1WSgB2RisC-cyC32fuIVtNJtJfwgm8TqH3aKRan9cfgIxBZGfIczoPIv2_2Yp30FMG9Za_dQ0B-owbj-m9ndYly__5n1zOsZGzPO7Ej6AdkatlfRsHIS3QMXSjG/s320/CIMG4365.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5172711202803660674" border="0" /></a><br /></div></div></div></div>The next morning we did some last minute shopping before sadly heading to the airport. The difficulty with visiting so many places in such a short time is that you never get to spend enough time in the places you like. Jaisalmer has been my favorite place in India thus far.<br /><br /></div></div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-86517495809037871992008-02-28T09:26:00.000-05:002008-02-28T11:02:51.005-05:00Varanasi and Bodhgaya<div>Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.<br />- Mark Twain<br /><br />Our next stop after Delhi was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varanasi">Varanasi</a>, also known as Benares or Kashi. Varanasi was founded approximately 3,000 years ago but many Hindus believe their deity, Shiva, founded it more than 5,000 years ago. Hindus believe that bathing in the Ganges river will cleanse a person of their sins and that dying in Varanasi will relieve a soul from the cycle of reincarnations.<br /><br />We had heard horror stories of travel in India but had been spared any difficulties by staying with the Ericsons and driving around with Sanjay. The trip to Varanasi from the airport was a reminder that we would no longer enjoy those comforts in India. Our taxi driver politely informed us that the hotel we had selected was full, that we couldn't book a room for less than four times our agreed upon price, and that there were bugs. What he really wanted to do was take us to a different hotel so he could pick up the commission from our business. Despite our pleas to simply bring us to the hotel we asked for, he tried to drop us off at two different hotels. The final straw though was when he tried to pick up another man who was giving a sales pitch for a different hotel. Infuriated, I opened the door and pushed the salesman out of our stopped taxi and screamed at the taxi driver to take us directly to our hotel without stopping anywhere else. When we finally arrived at the hotel, the staff told us that the room we reserved was already occupied. After a brief argument over the definition of reservation and threatening to go to a different hotel, we finally were able to get the room we asked for at the agreed price. I spent the rest of the day in bed, trying to shake some flu like symptoms. That evening, we left the hotel for about an hour but that was enough time to grab dinner, check email and get our phone stolen. I should note, however, that we have not had such difficulties with hotels or taxis since.<br /><br />The first day in Varanasi was not so pleasant but with some sleep and a new hotel, things seemed much different. We spent our remaining nights in a hotel in "the Ghats," the area near the Ganges river.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhDfXzn9RIuKrGlTKV37RkX22X8nJiPw5DggLK_4WQG8QrJZqFa8AbUnE31ItcaR8AMxty7-oVDlW-oSL9uoskGV5eeMwv5AcZPEHthjI8RTVji7Afa2e2Rwqbw4SJgP7kGbBPmr-Sy_0/s1600-h/CIMG4014.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167613306453937890" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQhDfXzn9RIuKrGlTKV37RkX22X8nJiPw5DggLK_4WQG8QrJZqFa8AbUnE31ItcaR8AMxty7-oVDlW-oSL9uoskGV5eeMwv5AcZPEHthjI8RTVji7Afa2e2Rwqbw4SJgP7kGbBPmr-Sy_0/s320/CIMG4014.JPG" border="0" /></a>We took moto-rickshaw, a small three wheeled taxi , to our new hotel but stopped a few hundred meters away when the vehicle could no longer fit down the streets. The driver grabbed a local kid who led us through alleys to our hotel. Since Varanasi's development predated the concepts of city planning and vehicles, the area near the Ganges is a rats nest of narrow, colorful alleys filled with locals shops and of course cows.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoOQpE921Dl4u8cYznTj4SNmNIuR5KZjabgZ1VeF06OkFXEncJj1QvqodXxdml4hqBMf0yWSiFhfU8BtqKWyDLW9vI2yQRh7R6zwY3EmvoDtmawojQ0iCEcmJQqZ96t-gJUybnbM2xoFZ/s1600-h/CIMG4048.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167614663663603442" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoOQpE921Dl4u8cYznTj4SNmNIuR5KZjabgZ1VeF06OkFXEncJj1QvqodXxdml4hqBMf0yWSiFhfU8BtqKWyDLW9vI2yQRh7R6zwY3EmvoDtmawojQ0iCEcmJQqZ96t-gJUybnbM2xoFZ/s320/CIMG4048.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We dropped our bags and decided to have lunch at our $5 per evening hotel's restaurant and in the process got our first glimpse of the Ganges. The water was low, as it is currently the dry season, and local families played and picnicked on the sand bar opposite town that's otherwise underwater. Looking down from the perch high above, we saw people soaping up only to wash themselves off in river water that is so dirty as to make any westerner cringe.<br /><p><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHWNbBBNMfWQQvk0N6dgHmyYImvDVBuDqQKu_n8fP4UHk53W9HUXU6mXzNt6VS4T1KnNicZa6uOOafK2EAIO7LlN4boD7eKA5NNwhpTJJHQ3W3pB8UgKdVh0y5aJ3mxYlHXsxGdmzJBLo9/s1600-h/CIMG4042.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167591548149616242" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4U_shIlUR6iNl731ms8Y6w211F3glxMSAuQtRbPVP2Lpvfrdmekk7HkDBFx4XAttbg9_eE_UZrgJO-DlinoVOT0Zf-rUVxiv4FCYFNlKRMXO7amyA6ewIQR9rhFyiaTBYfxmwwvfUtMeW/s320/CIMG4047.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p>Our next priority was to hire a boat for a quick ride down the river. The best view of the town is from the water (pictured above). We passed Dashashwamedh Ghat, which is appropriately nicknamed Burning Ghat, at sunset and saw five simultaneous cremations.<br /></p><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHWNbBBNMfWQQvk0N6dgHmyYImvDVBuDqQKu_n8fP4UHk53W9HUXU6mXzNt6VS4T1KnNicZa6uOOafK2EAIO7LlN4boD7eKA5NNwhpTJJHQ3W3pB8UgKdVh0y5aJ3mxYlHXsxGdmzJBLo9/s1600-h/CIMG4042.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167614698023341826" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHWNbBBNMfWQQvk0N6dgHmyYImvDVBuDqQKu_n8fP4UHk53W9HUXU6mXzNt6VS4T1KnNicZa6uOOafK2EAIO7LlN4boD7eKA5NNwhpTJJHQ3W3pB8UgKdVh0y5aJ3mxYlHXsxGdmzJBLo9/s320/CIMG4042.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />We spent the remaining days getting lost in the alleys only to pop out somewhere familiar and get lost again.<br /></p><p>And finally a quick video of a ride through Varanasi, as seen from the top of a moto-rickshaw.</p><br /><br /><p></p><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/_u_CWLoDpHM" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" height="350" width="425"></embed><br /><p></p>Next, we took a train from Varanasi to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bodhgaya">Bodhgaya</a>, the town where Prince Gautama Siddhartha found enlightenment and became the Buddha in 500BC. At all times the town is busy as pilgrimage site for Buddhists around the world but when we visited the town was especially packed. High level delegations from Buddhists countries all over descended upon Bodhgaya for a two week chant-a-thon around the Bodhi tree. We spent a few hours one day trying to meditate but really just drank chai tea, listened to chanting, and chatted with monks.<br /><div><br /><div><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167596306973380242" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg18CJuJYqvEjsGCJU779TwgIHaklo6thd4jaihFNUvXTF49z2L4eDl2kCkmFUBE6WyS0lK5jW4yLFE0X3AAxxMmGiAti_bLqtiwKMAEnoSIiItMbkZM35FCdwsWN0riTS8_dDd5BFkV9MK/s320/CIMG4098.JPG" border="0" />The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahabodhi_Temple">Mahabodhi temple</a> was built where the Buddha achieved enlightenment and signs all over the complex let visitors know where he spent each day.<br /></div><br /><div><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167592939719020162" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtrZeI4QVwtw-PrRXTmZbGqec-3fZH6qP_EjQf8GCKPe8ZswHEj2Txbo3EA1fh1jxMoUXRrXi_VKVINDeZWWMVLhBIFGinBU53bWDouAh-SVhm5OVCRAnrebTwvh48SQMM5ZvXfraX5Kp/s320/CIMG4092.JPG" border="0" /></div><br />We also briefly stopped by the world's second largest Buddha statue.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVx-gjw4hb4ZKkU_nSkXveLi_hXxcwZHTjUzIFIYypNpxW3E1FREB5fmr9l6pgH_r26RAqOHS4gmICdPzdc4NiR8To9mhrm612lEzYEUKOv5v_-y3f6zpBxrHJufuOdnKHmr2GHkdMGuo/s1600-h/CIMG4114.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167598218233826994" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVx-gjw4hb4ZKkU_nSkXveLi_hXxcwZHTjUzIFIYypNpxW3E1FREB5fmr9l6pgH_r26RAqOHS4gmICdPzdc4NiR8To9mhrm612lEzYEUKOv5v_-y3f6zpBxrHJufuOdnKHmr2GHkdMGuo/s320/CIMG4114.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Since there is little to do in the small, rural town other than visit temples and meditate, we spent some time making friends with local kids.<br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167598888248725186" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQF2G_nwef3bKxHDya7_HRfXWtTtS_-fWKxbRE0On1ernY-Vav2K8VgRysd-16LkeB1jNB_0Vc9YURdrzedWqE2OfMyFgpAMbH1flunR5c_9GfTKcoEU0JsqFClcF54hz2jI9II8gmad6/s320/CIMG4132.jpg" border="0" /><br />Of course, I found another friend along the way.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167597299110825634" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmXf42STqSJxWUiFt4VLDfj50BLHQMVZRF2qlag5AS4_B_zgvG4P5EaA0xLBXgj3Hbjtyqz4RyYFB189cGtC0QUzjxTVNHiWkssGgFkSmw-hbnp6Q1vo0VzEhxzyKpw7b2wD5Tl4CCUa9W/s320/CIMG4119.jpg" border="0" /> </div></div></div><br /><p> </p><br /><br /><p> </p>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-5913200335682697362008-02-23T10:44:00.000-05:002008-02-23T13:51:18.762-05:00Agra, India: The Taj MahalAfter a day in Delhi we hopped on a train headed towards Agra, home of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taj_mahal">Taj Mahal</a>. Once there, we spent a few hours looking for a room before getting frustrated and taking a break for dinner. Finally we found a room and turned in so we could be up early for sunrise.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165351327567760786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ5Upnc4nzBSc6EIubUhsPbWcsQCKknr2vaVDG4Rr1foPWJvsOsHYJQ4_E-se1Gjzxflod28W2kFTOy__1IWi4_j4fzS6bJQ4NuT0mwU45nQd_1l66yMr0BBwf4juU7uZFIRX_Oa9-vLx7/s320/CIMG3671.JPG" border="0" /> Sadly, sunrise wasn't particularly notable because a layer of pollution and overcast skies but we did get to see the golden glow of early morning reflecting off the sandstone for one brief moment. I've included the two pictures above and below to show both the sun on the Taj and the reflection in the garden fountain.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165351349042597330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZYH4GYSBAVe7fPzgkqRJbY2T1EAUs6AT6cm_Yj0e0dBtcarFOv_Z-Nlv_-2-OtPVqZvzA8cvqIpgmrFnSiRvmenXywU7KpFdvSIm5Iij-cPYabvvq_sFY_0t3Ym-wnOEVdSgpm1JMsp4-/s320/CIMG3753.JPG" border="0" /> In 1648 the Mughul Emperor Shah Jahan commissioned the Taj as a tomb for his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The entire complex is a monument to symmetry which is apparent in every plant, fountain and pathway. The one break in the symmetry is Shah Jahan's coffin which lies next to his wife's, which is the focal point of the complex.<br />The picture below shows the south gate to the Taj Mahal. The 11 finials in the top center of this gateway are reflected on the backside and represent the 22 years it took to build the complex.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyb1C8Ml5Ovx4G8eHr1YRQfcsENSFGD6K0O4AvOe4nd5AJwGOziS5tFkCkT0FatiJVeCbXXtpJiUKlmPR27tSIhJHH4bkzaDtFxOChxRuew2LnwmZaI7YZcx578z9AimH9JPlPgKUu__c5/s1600-h/CIMG3761.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165352199446121954" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyb1C8Ml5Ovx4G8eHr1YRQfcsENSFGD6K0O4AvOe4nd5AJwGOziS5tFkCkT0FatiJVeCbXXtpJiUKlmPR27tSIhJHH4bkzaDtFxOChxRuew2LnwmZaI7YZcx578z9AimH9JPlPgKUu__c5/s320/CIMG3761.JPG" border="0" /></a> The square border around the arched entrance way above features calligraphy and excerpts from the Qur'an. The majority of the decorative elements on the Taj, including some of these scriptures, are created with semi precious stone inlays. The interior tomb features intricate flower designs on carved white marble lattice work. Each palm sized flower is created using at least 64 semi-precious stones.<br />Pictured below: The Taj from an adjacent mosque<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx3wVaubU9VpodXus6Px_Kd_XlL-J0hsxiUqIwGjYaX8igOARFoka9UhSreUWg0xhNHGt9rB3d5tIIGdIcHUb6Y_BX66X_tonYsyq9S0l8YyOqz-LX76_R2aTVcSr6gAIUlQfJx7feJSlv/s1600-h/CIMG3730.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165351344747630018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx3wVaubU9VpodXus6Px_Kd_XlL-J0hsxiUqIwGjYaX8igOARFoka9UhSreUWg0xhNHGt9rB3d5tIIGdIcHUb6Y_BX66X_tonYsyq9S0l8YyOqz-LX76_R2aTVcSr6gAIUlQfJx7feJSlv/s320/CIMG3730.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We visited the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agra_Fort">Agra Fort</a> next. The fort was originally commissioned by Akbar the Great but was greatly expanded by his grandson, Shah Jahan.<br /><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqbAHp1jPh8_9v8MDX-j_v-utPoA4uYW5Exl2C9ZaTuyWar33slj8-UvRbWpUEkeB08pNgAif4wrgl4yyTOo_gW0yy_UezkVR01F14COFIZq_JZyxATkKJFt0S7nznMeNilEn6FfBbaQEf/s1600-h/CIMG3765.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165352203741089266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqbAHp1jPh8_9v8MDX-j_v-utPoA4uYW5Exl2C9ZaTuyWar33slj8-UvRbWpUEkeB08pNgAif4wrgl4yyTOo_gW0yy_UezkVR01F14COFIZq_JZyxATkKJFt0S7nznMeNilEn6FfBbaQEf/s320/CIMG3765.JPG" border="0" /></a> The fort is more like a walled palace with public audience halls, a princely mosque and this stately entrance way.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz16IRMBdxPuusbY8PGcNBBcY3G29dZjeG8xkayIpbel7CTZICkqCwCjKocgUDcTvR1CFha0yw4dR_bVnJdYUL1Pt8CSyFGpKpN2nOHeegJj1wsq7kiR5LG7jvcvv-SGQ-6eM7kbj_VEGk/s1600-h/CIMG3774.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165352208036056578" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz16IRMBdxPuusbY8PGcNBBcY3G29dZjeG8xkayIpbel7CTZICkqCwCjKocgUDcTvR1CFha0yw4dR_bVnJdYUL1Pt8CSyFGpKpN2nOHeegJj1wsq7kiR5LG7jvcvv-SGQ-6eM7kbj_VEGk/s320/CIMG3774.JPG" border="0" /></a> With massive building projects like the Agra Fort, the Taj Mahal, and the Jama Masjid mosque in Delhi, Shah Jahan's son Aurangzeb became worried about the kingdom's finances. To stop the spending Aurangzeb imprisoned his father in the Agra Fort. According to local lore, Shah Jahan died in this room, looking out at the Taj Mahal.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEiRJEBnR6l7YoTAtFDHZaIQiLN2_sMvLD-BwozzU-hI5J1fng8-4l5rxpKMM1tBKztiT4ThOhrSf1IT6iez0kDTJZY_rEiq7qRBKx7GpSSLrV-DRVnYySyIwWS5e-TtMXrBxrKY9y_696/s1600-h/CIMG3805.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165352212331023890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEiRJEBnR6l7YoTAtFDHZaIQiLN2_sMvLD-BwozzU-hI5J1fng8-4l5rxpKMM1tBKztiT4ThOhrSf1IT6iez0kDTJZY_rEiq7qRBKx7GpSSLrV-DRVnYySyIwWS5e-TtMXrBxrKY9y_696/s320/CIMG3805.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8W_rmPFnHskZigAOpWz-Ump2etlaDlhwi4GOAerEDurWY-YPBZe6SyrsJVzBoMIvM0iDOKVtldgFEpdDLPca1PVE7S09wkLZz-WPXH4Y3u6hk1zeS6FNdWQ-I9Fkpp7_LtJjpnJJvMEMx/s1600-h/CIMG3830.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165352216625991202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8W_rmPFnHskZigAOpWz-Ump2etlaDlhwi4GOAerEDurWY-YPBZe6SyrsJVzBoMIvM0iDOKVtldgFEpdDLPca1PVE7S09wkLZz-WPXH4Y3u6hk1zeS6FNdWQ-I9Fkpp7_LtJjpnJJvMEMx/s320/CIMG3830.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Our final stop was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomb_of_Akbar_the_Great">Akbar's Tomb</a>, also known as Sikandra. Akbar was Emperor Humayun from Delhi's son and Shah Jahan's Grandfather. The photo below shows the tomb's impressive gateway adorned with intricate stone inlay.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165355901707931186" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN45mYL626P8B65y7VoB9UkdqhHJGblFNliWDyUvZjfDntxOhvZJLG8H3SyXGYaJFtHrjFsVFe5MYc2rEzC2hPK_C8qYS5Vu_ronQ-oRknSV8mn79Rp3vGYiZ12bJRpZ_ije0s0cwP8SWN/s320/CIMG3863.JPG" border="0" /></p>Akbar commenced the construction in 1600 AD but the complex wasn't completed until 1613 AD, 8 years after his death. The photo below shows part of the beautiful mosaic in the tomb's entrance.<br /><p></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT3bjFoWuzHC6233ydKg9mTJ87C9h7V4pDY9fYWFuMjuXww2Nlq2X0_JwCNi79b4J-YXKNcBCD56d0UWYST3ZctKuIRQxZzSUwCb6RbJlpSNI7vVmTi25RaIENF9KxxbancvWfsVGjLliC/s1600-h/CIMG3884.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165355953247538786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT3bjFoWuzHC6233ydKg9mTJ87C9h7V4pDY9fYWFuMjuXww2Nlq2X0_JwCNi79b4J-YXKNcBCD56d0UWYST3ZctKuIRQxZzSUwCb6RbJlpSNI7vVmTi25RaIENF9KxxbancvWfsVGjLliC/s320/CIMG3884.JPG" border="0" /></a></p>The photo below was taken halfway between the gateway and the tomb.<br /><p></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9C8W2Kb9OQqzdT47URq9Ys26sBYKPKyeka98ZaqPDIrjZp8VqzVIUgMRSx2F2xNy_IIDsKFyhP4dYWu2nx8ovm7NVo3lCzvIgfm33w-Facvsgr0EuCEmQVK4pRi5fHFScuufTgY_Yof7J/s1600-h/CIMG3882.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165355944657604178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9C8W2Kb9OQqzdT47URq9Ys26sBYKPKyeka98ZaqPDIrjZp8VqzVIUgMRSx2F2xNy_IIDsKFyhP4dYWu2nx8ovm7NVo3lCzvIgfm33w-Facvsgr0EuCEmQVK4pRi5fHFScuufTgY_Yof7J/s320/CIMG3882.JPG" border="0" /></a></p>One of the most interesting aspects of Akbar's tomb is the surrounding grounds where deer and monkeys roam freely.<br /><p></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-N7kq68kXU0rPeky1uIqFGkglpmaWzonBTIDSD4uxAvRSceQ_zWzLz69qjChzyU2VrlhI5xwyAScI3bWDZCBdqmDa5jiLdKbslashrpGMlklyMbuMEkA5-qj2SCEJq_XaioM0KxKU5HT/s1600-h/CIMG3872.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5165355936067669570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-N7kq68kXU0rPeky1uIqFGkglpmaWzonBTIDSD4uxAvRSceQ_zWzLz69qjChzyU2VrlhI5xwyAScI3bWDZCBdqmDa5jiLdKbslashrpGMlklyMbuMEkA5-qj2SCEJq_XaioM0KxKU5HT/s320/CIMG3872.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We rushed back to the Agra train station only to find out that our train had been delayed. By the time we got back to Delhi well pass midnight, we were exhausted and ready to fall asleep so we were quite happy to see Sanjay at the train station and Mr Ericson waiting up when we got back home. Thank you Mr and Mrs Ericson and Sanjay for helping to ease us into India, our experiences in Delhi simply would not have been as enjoyable without all your help. </p>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-15287127082638141592008-02-18T05:06:00.000-05:002008-02-17T18:08:36.298-05:00Delhi, IndiaAfter an entirely unremarkable flight from Krabi to Bangkok, we decided to head into the city to kill part of our expected five hour layover. We picked up a few last minute souvenirs, ran some errands and ate one last plate of Pad Thai before returning to the airport for our flight. Unfortunately, as soon as we got back to the airport we found out the flight had been delayed and wound up with five hours on our hands again. We managed to entertain ourselves by reading in book stores, browsing duty free shops and reading in the lobby. At the very last minute we had a chance encounter with old friends, brothers Laird and Brad, from Delaware. By the time we finally cleared customs in Delhi at almost 3:00AM, our host, Mr. Ericson, was a sight for sore eyes.<br /><br /><br />When we woke up the next morning, the Ericson's recommended we take a "windshield tour" through Delhi with their driver, Sanjay. As we rolled past countless embassies lining wide, straight streets, I thought it strange that Delhi looked nothing like I had imagined. Sanjay then told us that Delhi is split in two distinct sections, new and old, and that we were in New Delhi which had been carefully designed and planned by the British.<br /><br /><br />Our first stop was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rashtrapati_Bhavan">Rashtrapati Bhavan</a>, the President of India's house. Until 1950 this was known as "Viceroy's House" and was the residence of the British Governor-General of India.<br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglNkehVWAeXi1xiEGhQ9m9OEkEIvT1PF01IvtNlML5dafdi134J3VLzxdXHZJSZ_QIYhcp09pJhBVgQHIdTez2y_Be4s0zuF3kpcDFyf7lEwgeXFJ8wjV2JjmLsKpCvaZfbXZuBMNvi71o/s1600-h/CIMG3624.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167635356816035778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglNkehVWAeXi1xiEGhQ9m9OEkEIvT1PF01IvtNlML5dafdi134J3VLzxdXHZJSZ_QIYhcp09pJhBVgQHIdTez2y_Be4s0zuF3kpcDFyf7lEwgeXFJ8wjV2JjmLsKpCvaZfbXZuBMNvi71o/s320/CIMG3624.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The photo below shows a Secretariat which is adjacent to but not part of the Presidents house. The architect incorporated many traditionally Indian elements, like water and the dome, in the building's design.<br /><br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167635382585839586" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-kGjLpPr5l10dh6X7iqnZ8XadO0Y_bnXmAIVbRBS1hBVsNdHXhXo3AnmpOih88-rRXkS9D2oRRWCEy_017eVDFuuovb6K2C9EiwZWNFJaxVLzUHnI9MUyhhRLYcUxDnYS1bB9OfGaGAnp/s320/CIMG3629.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p>The photo below shows the fence around the President's and is notable for the combination of British wrought iron and Indian red sandstone.<br /><br /><br /></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Q30HjszuPv_sdJsVCgjNfBsKbU1LF8ytegPwwx-MWDA5jC7bYpka0ExXTUAN_u20aLVieIYW9fAlKQy5Ajt323UPSpxpLRxG1RBHJAZ8KPvW4go2IsyZZWSEn53zSbGPkQCLdy8hQT72/s1600-h/CIMG3625.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167635365405970386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Q30HjszuPv_sdJsVCgjNfBsKbU1LF8ytegPwwx-MWDA5jC7bYpka0ExXTUAN_u20aLVieIYW9fAlKQy5Ajt323UPSpxpLRxG1RBHJAZ8KPvW4go2IsyZZWSEn53zSbGPkQCLdy8hQT72/s320/CIMG3625.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We left the President's house and drove past a few other landmarks including <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/India_Gate">India Gate</a>, a monument to Indian soldiers who died fighting in World War I. India Gate bears a great resemblance to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. After a few minutes of driving, the broad parkway turned into a narrow one lane street, traffic ground to a stop, horns started blaring and Sanjay announced "this is Old Delhi." Cows meandered lazily about the streets and men threw up their arms haggling with vendors while vehicles of every shape and size imaginable jockeyed for every precious inch of forward progress. This was what I thought of when I pictured Delhi.</p>Pictured below: a small bazaar in Old Delhi.<br /><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimg9CrkUIxNf8OYwKlo81XxAwM_YZsPZRapHM-XGqbVgXIjnJiRr95z1Tctge84qfeI-yvdC2R-vGrGJFX3jH7m2lnqzThOUkZH-3Fsbd46yHtP9KP4HXS1aJi4ZAV7qhl9muhu_XCLRSP/s1600-h/CIMG3637.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167635391175774194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimg9CrkUIxNf8OYwKlo81XxAwM_YZsPZRapHM-XGqbVgXIjnJiRr95z1Tctge84qfeI-yvdC2R-vGrGJFX3jH7m2lnqzThOUkZH-3Fsbd46yHtP9KP4HXS1aJi4ZAV7qhl9muhu_XCLRSP/s320/CIMG3637.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><p>We also visited <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jama_Masjid,_Delhi">Jama Masjid</a>, one of the largest and most well known mosques in India. The mosque was commissioned by Shah Jahan, of Taj Mahal fame, and completed in 1656. As we climbed the stairs, faithful Muslims rushed by, answering the call to prayer.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYBYqsAGN1HuLbg_Bzb2me7jO6D1uXBr-ftYc1lSgHGHA4yk_t8Hv-We1fuuk-MqLuDMmJjOZgSU6g-pY2aYdsvS7daEaxvKBhvrEckZCvn8hDVb3EAXQnejrtvXcrBn6mfiqkkHCtVGY/s1600-h/CIMG3641.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167635404060676098" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbYBYqsAGN1HuLbg_Bzb2me7jO6D1uXBr-ftYc1lSgHGHA4yk_t8Hv-We1fuuk-MqLuDMmJjOZgSU6g-pY2aYdsvS7daEaxvKBhvrEckZCvn8hDVb3EAXQnejrtvXcrBn6mfiqkkHCtVGY/s320/CIMG3641.JPG" border="0" /></a> </p><br /><br /><p>That evening we went out to dinner with Mr. Ericson who introduced us to uttapam and paratha, two classic Indian dishes that are not well known in the west.</p><br /><p>The next day we took off by train for Agra and the Taj Mahal. This will be covered in the next post.<br /></p><br />On the fourth day in India, we visited the <a href="http://www.nationalmuseumindia.gov.in/">National Museum</a> where there are more than 200,000 pieces of art spanning 5,000 years of India's history. Later that evening we met up with Ryan and Brian, two of my friends from college who also happened to be in Delhi. They are sailing around the world with two other friends from Northwestern as part of a non-profit venture that links classrooms with global expeditions. You can follow their journey <a href="http://reachtheworld.org/aldebaran/index.php">here</a>.<br /><br /><br />The next day we visited <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humayun">Humayun's Tomb</a>, the first example of Mughal style architecture in India.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzYhKafctMPA2YltrjjpCoTZmRPs0GdQEqJKhNOYm-O69lzX2IGwYpeKMWANxwZCax5r0CBkaM6IzSEOh-rHdSd95zstV5njH9ZAOLqJ_ZxQ0ny1xiAppcS3CInV48zg7rJG3DpP61jaZk/s1600-h/CIMG3980.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167621033100103522" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzYhKafctMPA2YltrjjpCoTZmRPs0GdQEqJKhNOYm-O69lzX2IGwYpeKMWANxwZCax5r0CBkaM6IzSEOh-rHdSd95zstV5njH9ZAOLqJ_ZxQ0ny1xiAppcS3CInV48zg7rJG3DpP61jaZk/s320/CIMG3980.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br /><p>Humayun ruled from 1530 to 1556 during which time he lost and regained control of India before massively expanding the Mughal territories.</p><br /><br /><p><br /></p><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio5LCvh0Ur-PNYTeQJOjKItS7Kh561ybW9qhbfyTGIIfb_tiCyvn8PjtToxopxLowyubPsPTgT9eIMxsA7RGhiIS5VpYBtthbN6cIW6yATKjeUpONwIIX0bv1R6f4ihfvxb0nxOH3qEhey/s1600-h/CIMG3990.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167621041690038130" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio5LCvh0Ur-PNYTeQJOjKItS7Kh561ybW9qhbfyTGIIfb_tiCyvn8PjtToxopxLowyubPsPTgT9eIMxsA7RGhiIS5VpYBtthbN6cIW6yATKjeUpONwIIX0bv1R6f4ihfvxb0nxOH3qEhey/s320/CIMG3990.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br /><p></p><br /><p>Humayun was father to Akbar the Great and great grand father to Shah Jahan, both of Agra fame.<br /></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigwY4zGXQVife6wYd0ZU8D53uRKnCgEa6LHm5pmf4XQKgrbnrFmRsMLKG8x1zHiT15Cu0IfZWwE-VYn4qQz-kbYqctjrT8kp6bdVrX46u8lS7J4s7dLdgUdirfxmFFw0KeXhx0FHdh1XWm/s1600-h/CIMG3996.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167621058869907330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigwY4zGXQVife6wYd0ZU8D53uRKnCgEa6LHm5pmf4XQKgrbnrFmRsMLKG8x1zHiT15Cu0IfZWwE-VYn4qQz-kbYqctjrT8kp6bdVrX46u8lS7J4s7dLdgUdirfxmFFw0KeXhx0FHdh1XWm/s320/CIMG3996.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br /><p>Pictured below: the crumbling entrance to a smaller tomb near Humayun's<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYXh9RXcxwWDKaTP0-twe3yhz1NcxE3TJ6YDj9aONvhCJ3bvzURW_WT-JaXIO5m4hxAz0ixsOWoY5Wvbeg56Tru2xgsgiv8VvytG8n74hsVscx9s7GM4RTPkwyXB4lWGzUeGWU8ncY2fQ5/s1600-h/CIMG3997.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167621071754809234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYXh9RXcxwWDKaTP0-twe3yhz1NcxE3TJ6YDj9aONvhCJ3bvzURW_WT-JaXIO5m4hxAz0ixsOWoY5Wvbeg56Tru2xgsgiv8VvytG8n74hsVscx9s7GM4RTPkwyXB4lWGzUeGWU8ncY2fQ5/s320/CIMG3997.jpg" border="0" /></a> Later in the day we visited <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qutub_Minar">Qutb Minar</a> a complex of Islamic religious buildings dating from the late 1100s.</p><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167617558471560978" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgubm5nyZltMzsWmfhniGRKleewA1-1f6Pf_BjpQ6aPp-ffjYtEg4HUah05G7GFytdbbb9d5IVJZnfCTRqFhFiWsRRVbP4TpIyLOe6_XCkybKOPPNRSylNmtEYnT0FQEgtRao87I0wTb_Nh/s320/CIMG3925.jpg" border="0" /> </p><br /><p>The centerpiece is a 72.5 meter tall tower but the many crumbling buildings and intricate carvings are far more interesting.</p><br /><p><br /></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrThhRoRNu7UGSmAq2G4B6CMc4bTYeRHD2I6GExUd1h5QQaTi9kE3OpMOsWq50pyFZkWM67fOpnpWd1VwM2aasXbiydnlOr1abyY3a6NLncI6FOqzErbFgaFEPKEFikF8mA9UE8qxg-LU/s1600-h/CIMG3930.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167617567061495586" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNrThhRoRNu7UGSmAq2G4B6CMc4bTYeRHD2I6GExUd1h5QQaTi9kE3OpMOsWq50pyFZkWM67fOpnpWd1VwM2aasXbiydnlOr1abyY3a6NLncI6FOqzErbFgaFEPKEFikF8mA9UE8qxg-LU/s320/CIMG3930.JPG" border="0" /></a> Pictured below: carvings on a prominent wall<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNz5_pP3IfSs6BDg1XrPmK0y08Nl0TI7xqdHnKjjFpQK5aReOwQpkRYVQLfrPMtKlvTjwMZiCvtTGTCTi95VXJLFqOfr5dbBTLyOOAifuPCHZuKC3LUABKV8cek2U6QF9_S0Xz5zPB6ZqH/s1600-h/CIMG3941.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167617571356462898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNz5_pP3IfSs6BDg1XrPmK0y08Nl0TI7xqdHnKjjFpQK5aReOwQpkRYVQLfrPMtKlvTjwMZiCvtTGTCTi95VXJLFqOfr5dbBTLyOOAifuPCHZuKC3LUABKV8cek2U6QF9_S0Xz5zPB6ZqH/s320/CIMG3941.jpg" border="0" /></a> Pictured below: carvings from the interior of a tomb<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJx2htH_1xCCjOv3xcAWbr3CKCNSavT-UXROJikBYCMVKFuKtqZL83UN2KHXQ2sZsyM3ItO3scA49FELZxHnFi2N_reovMOsFlvHZ9qeuCaAU0W_Fg3K1TMvMCjwIJVUUyMbU5QES1RLyw/s1600-h/CIMG3957.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167617584241364802" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJx2htH_1xCCjOv3xcAWbr3CKCNSavT-UXROJikBYCMVKFuKtqZL83UN2KHXQ2sZsyM3ItO3scA49FELZxHnFi2N_reovMOsFlvHZ9qeuCaAU0W_Fg3K1TMvMCjwIJVUUyMbU5QES1RLyw/s320/CIMG3957.JPG" border="0" /></a> </p><br /><p>Pictured below: the complex from its entry, the base of the tower is visible on the left side</p><br /><p><br /></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAlYX7R3Xzo9Vb7UhyphenhyphenQb9Gf3AbWRdkKmx5jmbkA_IMRvGBAbhPgVrjZslfU-jfj04xf3RlFSW57dGWDIQzVh4JP7-4T-PSlt4EWU1wztK_7i6tHsPSRrDqc9OjWXrDL-DjIfilQb66J8jb/s1600-h/CIMG3970.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167617588536332114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAlYX7R3Xzo9Vb7UhyphenhyphenQb9Gf3AbWRdkKmx5jmbkA_IMRvGBAbhPgVrjZslfU-jfj04xf3RlFSW57dGWDIQzVh4JP7-4T-PSlt4EWU1wztK_7i6tHsPSRrDqc9OjWXrDL-DjIfilQb66J8jb/s320/CIMG3970.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Ellie and I were concerned that we might run out of room in our passports on account of profligate stamping by customs agents in Hong Kong. We took advantage of some spare time on our last day in Delhi to stop by the US Embassy and request extra . We walked past hundreds of Indians waiting in line to apply for Visas and stepped back on to American soil for just a brief moment.</p><br /><p>Finally, we visited <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tughlaqabad">Tughlaqabad</a>, the crumbling remains of a fort city built in 1321. The city ran out of water and was abandoned only six years after it was built but some impressive fortifications still stand.<br /><br /></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz6BzSiTZDxMLmk6gt3Oa5UHIEHRhCwuuoqtXD30q8G8PyipxbrJvZcuFtkmgR3Ks1Tvr-VpJCnNMlP2ZaBTGESEWZuG2pkGZu0olFmvR6GWbqSWLKbD0Z8SajFriQWfMS3bULSUC68qaW/s1600-h/CIMG4000.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167622703842381746" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz6BzSiTZDxMLmk6gt3Oa5UHIEHRhCwuuoqtXD30q8G8PyipxbrJvZcuFtkmgR3Ks1Tvr-VpJCnNMlP2ZaBTGESEWZuG2pkGZu0olFmvR6GWbqSWLKbD0Z8SajFriQWfMS3bULSUC68qaW/s320/CIMG4000.JPG" border="0" /></a> </p><br /><p>Delhi has grown around and over top of the massive complex, so in many places there are modern houses and businesses where the old fort used to stand. In some areas though the remains of buildings and roads are still visible.<br /></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDP9nhKGrSt-fom87y7fz2Bf1AdbwyWShyCmaBTKM1B4-5Cdx4BgVXIkCHRyjI8SinGFkz0dBVLhH3uCPw3Htr7hYaWv3mKHW7Gt_Nqcrn3gbXGTFYSistmTRkPHtKKBvcTj-7aQYbu6nf/s1600-h/CIMG3998.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5167621080344743842" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDP9nhKGrSt-fom87y7fz2Bf1AdbwyWShyCmaBTKM1B4-5Cdx4BgVXIkCHRyjI8SinGFkz0dBVLhH3uCPw3Htr7hYaWv3mKHW7Gt_Nqcrn3gbXGTFYSistmTRkPHtKKBvcTj-7aQYbu6nf/s320/CIMG3998.JPG" border="0" /></a> We hopped around the ruins for more than an hour and covered only a fraction of the complex. </p><br /><p>The next morning we boarded a plane for Varanasi and the holy Ganges River!<br /></p>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-61277087126187046112008-02-01T09:52:00.000-05:002008-02-01T14:00:28.588-05:00Southern Thailand and the IslandsWe boarded the plane in Chang Mai, looking forward to spending some time on the west coast of southern Thailand, also known as the Andaman Coast. Unfortunately the flight from Chang Mai to Bangkok was late and we had to sprint through the airport to get to our connecting flight. Fortunately we caught the flight and made it to Krabi without any issues. By the time we arrived, all the ferry's and buses had left for the day so we had to spend the night in Krabi before moving on to somewhere more scenic. With views like this, however, Krabi isn't too bad on the eyes either.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-xR0csxN-FsFSRY2FAB3M5SDmyWizN_KdEZu_JKZgZzvKfLHMSy9bx_WsCRNjz2YU40m0T1KaifiIiv0C9xlyPkffUUXeOQekSOAt1y8jM3O8UdG9M2b_igkgwmj1iRIt-ss4ry-ftKr/s1600-h/CIMG3617.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-xR0csxN-FsFSRY2FAB3M5SDmyWizN_KdEZu_JKZgZzvKfLHMSy9bx_WsCRNjz2YU40m0T1KaifiIiv0C9xlyPkffUUXeOQekSOAt1y8jM3O8UdG9M2b_igkgwmj1iRIt-ss4ry-ftKr/s320/CIMG3617.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162004638503184194" border="0" /></a><br />After a morning updating blogs, we hopped on a bus and two ferries to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ko_Lanta_Yai">Ko Lanta Yai</a>, an island just south and west of Krabi. The island is less known, and (luckily) thus less touristed, than the nearby Ko Phi Phi and Phuket. Still, many hotels were already booked so we spent a few hours looking for a room in the oppressive midday heat. Tired, hungry, and grumpy, we finally found a hotel on Long Beach with just enough time to see the sun set and forget about all the travel related hassles from that day.<br /><br /><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNLHefqS0kroDxhjnOytpjQCKUmrLuOTvegE9_BYGVin0hBVJ3e417kjImbwNz73v67WXe4J4Lt1GGI5lMQJA4PSXnyzSXykHZaIPjJz-UiLuRV5Ofx8OfvA56rcV0-kc5Pg2aJ_l_WX78/s1600-h/CIMG3416.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161664687546738354" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNLHefqS0kroDxhjnOytpjQCKUmrLuOTvegE9_BYGVin0hBVJ3e417kjImbwNz73v67WXe4J4Lt1GGI5lMQJA4PSXnyzSXykHZaIPjJz-UiLuRV5Ofx8OfvA56rcV0-kc5Pg2aJ_l_WX78/s320/CIMG3416.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The next morning, all of our ambitions seemed to melt away at the first sight of white sand beaches and turquoise water. We spent the day reading on the beach with not nearly enough sunscreen. Again, the sunset couldn't have been better.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqRvJANZkxY2QHIU-rv_xLZ6XqkAu0qL2XBoHW_cSfLSi1FdIPkLEnFsYb2FOPdnZGuixerlYFgR3YcB5cr75I4stNk-ibRKuhyUAglS8fWMy1IbxC29HG0IzkkAikWDXap-pLiZUIxvPC/s1600-h/CIMG3453.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161664704726607554" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqRvJANZkxY2QHIU-rv_xLZ6XqkAu0qL2XBoHW_cSfLSi1FdIPkLEnFsYb2FOPdnZGuixerlYFgR3YcB5cr75I4stNk-ibRKuhyUAglS8fWMy1IbxC29HG0IzkkAikWDXap-pLiZUIxvPC/s320/CIMG3453.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Pictured below: Ellie and I catching the last remnants of sunset in Ko Lanta. The small lights on the horizon are fishing boats at sea.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbsP0macloBwx9sqzTkf0TSJL4qhLP2eMlSpkxLY0vUusTV5tSQ-HizO1j4PzpHyAqGN_HLUcCQ9nc0mQV2Ceehqp-DAwQay4WM7CYsKP4DhCp2QK58Okk7v9ZaSu8rT3ZqnFtzDlPu6ar/s1600-h/CIMG3520.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161664709021574866" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbsP0macloBwx9sqzTkf0TSJL4qhLP2eMlSpkxLY0vUusTV5tSQ-HizO1j4PzpHyAqGN_HLUcCQ9nc0mQV2Ceehqp-DAwQay4WM7CYsKP4DhCp2QK58Okk7v9ZaSu8rT3ZqnFtzDlPu6ar/s320/CIMG3520.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The next day, we rented a motor bike and explored the island. There were a few beaches but the sand was not as white nor the water as clear as Long Beach. There was however a goat - the first we've seen since Nepal.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNQ3mkldoD1sM4tkijsVHRzdO-SMb68g4EvabvPrCQ8BfSQsB4svp64Eh42uxuWeccxnQ81h9xyqmHm9SXw2XuMvFaSn89Itp7BjvEQQ6AhzIf_T0EprqD97yJOH08a9i2Ljb2E6TGkoh2/s1600-h/CIMG3541.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161666465663198946" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNQ3mkldoD1sM4tkijsVHRzdO-SMb68g4EvabvPrCQ8BfSQsB4svp64Eh42uxuWeccxnQ81h9xyqmHm9SXw2XuMvFaSn89Itp7BjvEQQ6AhzIf_T0EprqD97yJOH08a9i2Ljb2E6TGkoh2/s320/CIMG3541.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The most interesting thing were tsunami warning signs along the road. On that note, Ko Lanta was largely spared from the tsunami in 2004 - today these are the only signs that anything happened.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTrI4nvWleJFAIqE1sAd6hyphenhyphenP9m9Lju66AlO3Lx8lUq5w3wL6xDbFgpVtAFrrFmY5LvhwxXNlu8V1kmFp5T7pDJEM6Ei_M1U9ZqdIifxGVGl4Wc5v1Fpa7qb3BAcYbQiP1pSWMdajLU3HO/s1600-h/CIMG3535.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoTrI4nvWleJFAIqE1sAd6hyphenhyphenP9m9Lju66AlO3Lx8lUq5w3wL6xDbFgpVtAFrrFmY5LvhwxXNlu8V1kmFp5T7pDJEM6Ei_M1U9ZqdIifxGVGl4Wc5v1Fpa7qb3BAcYbQiP1pSWMdajLU3HO/s320/CIMG3535.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5162044259576489810" border="0" /></a><br />That evening we had dinner with our friend, Bendigo, and ate fried fish on the beach. Later that evening, we saw fire dancers. The dancer in the center is twirling a flaming baton while the two outer dancers swing poi, which are somewhat like flaming nunchucks.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEWb1h48hyphenhyphenS1IDZhE4dSS3pidGxndBjq5fX83oI_OcWgJhOT6tkMq4KOtOcZ29K3uG0yQjzfqvLSbmIA09DEfeShv6Bfso8dBbNrQx97Pti3o41PElvYzjyCmOrIixBXpQWMf4DttJXpZq/s1600-h/IMG_2895.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161666474253133554" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEWb1h48hyphenhyphenS1IDZhE4dSS3pidGxndBjq5fX83oI_OcWgJhOT6tkMq4KOtOcZ29K3uG0yQjzfqvLSbmIA09DEfeShv6Bfso8dBbNrQx97Pti3o41PElvYzjyCmOrIixBXpQWMf4DttJXpZq/s320/IMG_2895.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />The next morning, we took a ferry to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ko_Phi_Phi">Ko Phi Phi</a> Don, one of two small islands north of Ko Lanta. Ko Phi Phi Don is the larger of the two islands and was devastated by the tsunami in 2004. The area has been almost completely rebuilt, owing to the strength of the tourist industry, and except for high prices, no major signs remain. Our hotel for the evening was, coincidentally, located on Long Beach. The other island, Ko Phi Phi Leh, is protected and thus has no inhabitants. As the setting for the 2000 movie, The Beach, it propelled the two islands to fame and has since attracted a steady stream of tourists.<br /><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPGWUwthJ8vtZtcQCHmbNl_RNErFQvJXnOLKs8UIDXdopJKMcBV7iVGMkoCSFU67siOfNMtcrJ4bofmDjb6s1_SD630ed0xTUgP-9PEjICB5S_XghPqQQKoNXybaWyqlQZKPvnZZzRV75B/s1600-h/CIMG3585.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161655461956986482" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPGWUwthJ8vtZtcQCHmbNl_RNErFQvJXnOLKs8UIDXdopJKMcBV7iVGMkoCSFU67siOfNMtcrJ4bofmDjb6s1_SD630ed0xTUgP-9PEjICB5S_XghPqQQKoNXybaWyqlQZKPvnZZzRV75B/s320/CIMG3585.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Long Beach, pictured above and below, is the kind of beach you see in post cards. Aquamarine, verging on imperceptible water laps brilliant white sand beaches while further down the island rocky cliffs jut hundreds of feet straight up from the sea. Longtail boats are visible in both pictures - since the island has no roads these serve as the primary form of transportation between town and remote beaches.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjjlb9p1CdxO7Gtocn-gE4557YNopSVN5B_03L5S8TFUwdugNbXNGqLuEXnYMnlSM9zWcKhBRxVW9OgqjUyArX5zQ3dthQo_Qq6BwhUgdWoCsGaHEe2b9z46fiA5Z1SgaewdQ_rEkBJNj/s1600-h/CIMG3580.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161655466251953794" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitjjlb9p1CdxO7Gtocn-gE4557YNopSVN5B_03L5S8TFUwdugNbXNGqLuEXnYMnlSM9zWcKhBRxVW9OgqjUyArX5zQ3dthQo_Qq6BwhUgdWoCsGaHEe2b9z46fiA5Z1SgaewdQ_rEkBJNj/s320/CIMG3580.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Pictured below: Ko Phi Phi Don at night.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2kIfq3pDVWA4Vqn_NI4N_YJUEkDTY6VwDT6sTVrtq6x56YjXDpxewe8maEZbb-AsXyJFEPqlw36sWMHBWtr_fIH6RSxXOY-an7Jc0JuyibtoqOsVB-zufu__AEF9KELiK3r4G1lWdeWYX/s1600-h/CIMG3568.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161670953904023298" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2kIfq3pDVWA4Vqn_NI4N_YJUEkDTY6VwDT6sTVrtq6x56YjXDpxewe8maEZbb-AsXyJFEPqlw36sWMHBWtr_fIH6RSxXOY-an7Jc0JuyibtoqOsVB-zufu__AEF9KELiK3r4G1lWdeWYX/s320/CIMG3568.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We left Ko Phi Phi the next day headed for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khao_Lak">Khao Lak</a>, a small town on the mainland more than 100km north. First, we had to take a long tail boat from Long Beach to a ferry, that dropped us off in Phuket where we caught a bus to Khao Lak. Pictured below: not so gracefully climbing into the longtail boat, laden with six months of gear.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlP4tTiLVgjF-LUlfT-BWi0n6WZX1jjL4OcZjHGKDH9YHWPEKaFM7im4-DnqWbEqpRkyafdJVWAfoXaSAx2vCarCOZCEniiaxYF_5eEoWNmSW57wXThlIi_MkTP1gAYOXksbaXoeEANxWk/s1600-h/CIMG3597.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161655453367051874" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlP4tTiLVgjF-LUlfT-BWi0n6WZX1jjL4OcZjHGKDH9YHWPEKaFM7im4-DnqWbEqpRkyafdJVWAfoXaSAx2vCarCOZCEniiaxYF_5eEoWNmSW57wXThlIi_MkTP1gAYOXksbaXoeEANxWk/s320/CIMG3597.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />If our days in Ko Lanta and Ko Phi Phi seemed lazy, it was not due to lethargy but an attempt to save our budget for greater things - namely scuba diving. The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Similan_Islands">Similan Islands</a> lie about 70km west of Khao Lak and feature some of the finest diving in the world.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGWVlHrJIdWLmGvGrxm2e67noDERombInyQNvYUFdWm6KDWopSOZEp4Kz_P1UbaLu3NeNEIUZJRcp_DJXzE943yQRlOEXo5Ra2RjV4QGoaET9fXajg1dvpAQqqM-AUHlnEkUUZLMRPxOwt/s1600-h/scuba+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGWVlHrJIdWLmGvGrxm2e67noDERombInyQNvYUFdWm6KDWopSOZEp4Kz_P1UbaLu3NeNEIUZJRcp_DJXzE943yQRlOEXo5Ra2RjV4QGoaET9fXajg1dvpAQqqM-AUHlnEkUUZLMRPxOwt/s320/scuba+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161996112993101602" border="0" /></a><br />Our dive site, Richelieu Rock, was teeming with marine life. We saw neon fish of every shape and size and creatures hiding in each crack and crevice. Unfortunately the picture below doesn't do justice to the vivid undersea world but schools of fish are visible in front and behind us. At times, there were so many fish that the visibility, 30 meters that day, was reduced to less than ten meters. We saw a great number of shrimp, crab, eels, urchins, puffer fish, and clownfish, among many others - my favorite though were the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuttlefish">cuttlefish</a>. These bizarre fish look like a combination between a squid and a flounder wearing a tutu and have a chameleon-like ability to change their color to match the surroundings.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM-MBPR923HzC5g4L02iFlSYl9Kt1nw1fFAZsH8cnG1YkLSmU4cU64hzhzxBLZFX3gmC824tWAu1wd9snhWLAoZP_OQQUkcHiRK-XFsTgO_Uxnth_O3qlZBIXadKmGG4pQTkoSaHHQVC3K/s1600-h/Scuba+3.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM-MBPR923HzC5g4L02iFlSYl9Kt1nw1fFAZsH8cnG1YkLSmU4cU64hzhzxBLZFX3gmC824tWAu1wd9snhWLAoZP_OQQUkcHiRK-XFsTgO_Uxnth_O3qlZBIXadKmGG4pQTkoSaHHQVC3K/s320/Scuba+3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161996112993101618" border="0" /></a><br />We spent our final day hopping between local buses to get from Khao Lak back to Krabi. Tomorrow morning we will catch a flight to India where we will be for the next month.<br /><br />Finally, one more picture of the fire dancers in Ko Lanta.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfB6x4hXDqew1AVxb4WJOZZ6m6Ll_zqp_WiuY9xKORLADSy8DWaTRdDHfI9-T9FPqKHIIPDeDwJkgoOp4ZZH8gPLExGEsgO68ABb8TodSXWFDk2r7eWqybY4MkVLCY05m3Tx3ycMRBOmbx/s1600-h/CIMG3559.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161655470546921106" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfB6x4hXDqew1AVxb4WJOZZ6m6Ll_zqp_WiuY9xKORLADSy8DWaTRdDHfI9-T9FPqKHIIPDeDwJkgoOp4ZZH8gPLExGEsgO68ABb8TodSXWFDk2r7eWqybY4MkVLCY05m3Tx3ycMRBOmbx/s320/CIMG3559.JPG" border="0" /></a> </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><br /></div></div></div></div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-82691037225691092572008-01-25T23:45:00.000-05:002008-01-25T22:44:13.571-05:00Chang Mai, Thailand<div>We flew from Bangkok to the northern city of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiang_Mai">Chang Mai</a> where we spent a few days hiking, taking a massage course and visiting a temple.<br /><div><div> </div><br /><div>Our two day hike started off at a waterfall.<br /></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158657239776929298" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXy22P7EzWqV1QiIqFmTNjprge1XSfvZnASr_191nXVDnpQKPC-o2TEh_DeEG_sxd_aibIDvT9_Zv08dk-z66GA3Mtc_Farih-ILCebeiro3D0asv_A6sUmvO89uSZzJh9IdVm4CJVJ8bl/s320/IMG_2755.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br /><p>We were able to walk up it because the eroding limestone gave the ground a sandpaper like texture.</p><br /><p><br /></p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158634390550914530" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFRe7QSAmn13Z_cCXd5lVzdTFdlTwXZmv7lNFIDB2IVUT8haUfCJanpggcsxhZbjzEl6fXF8Q39sIMMieX0jBcEx-vq6ELuVHFSXiOfJexSNi2Ynk33C6R2iK07hsAmY4M84NPXsHvjGNm/s320/CIMG3300.JPG" border="0" /> </div><br /><div><p></p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158636782847698434" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdXDj8IKy5omJik-EZ8Gz3IXyPHlpJ559p_RX5aVtml0rjfhpUXqinLsGHZ-iXXp81en_C8KgolhGbHorl5LplDD4cpqsGtCYSqk7W4rIpPVFjq5QiR9OEzpbfoabiGsVrs3LNwXrFIgnz/s320/CIMG3298.JPG" border="0" /><br />The purpose of this hike, however, was to visit hill tribes. These groups come from other countries and have left their homelands in search of more hospitable climates or more abundant resources among a variety of other reasons. We started off taking lunch with the Lahu, originally from southern China and Burma. The Lahu weren't wearing traditional garb or weaving, in fact some were even chatting on cell phones. They clearly weren't making any pretenses about living the same way they had for centuries or being unaffected by the modern world. Fortunately though not many tourists visit the village and thus it has retained much of its rustic charm.<br /></div><div> </div><br /><div></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158634381960979922" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihbCUcoikHOqjrmFSy8nuDoQsmn_fbvUVdre6AHqvx9i9zet2densfbPiCBTXTWePYSkqP8TY95zhHatiVfySdcRy7QLir7EtyLv9u1xMSR3sHiIP64cFodjTZBEptGci_fbP_EPe5C8Dl/s320/CIMG3318.JPG" border="0" /></div><br />We left the Lahu and hiked for a few hours before arriving in a Karen village. Although this tribe is native to Thailand and Burma, they speak neither Thai nor Burmese.<br /><div> </div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158634369076078018" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe_j0HQpp4k0_WyKAo3IB0muRBb17vccEt83YWKmjgB-2uuptlXRb-1e9dH-t4RpqWi9JUdh9PY92gVbN6tPBD7Gdjzds7ayWJHx34OlrJrAHIQ22iOPQupCxxZ5titAdHc30jCzRlgxMF/s320/CIMG3328.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><div> </div><br />The Karen village was similar to the Lahu village in that it did not seem to be affected by tourism. Some of the older tribesmen still wore traditional clothes although these had completely vanished among younger generations. We spent the night on the floor of a Karen family's bamboo hut. Pictured below: our hosts.<br /><div> </div><br /><div><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxIZkS3HEZIyBjxMuHEkfo-oFlwLaWC6kxnQUZMpZbNbzRyVKxaaCxMSGQeVsDRN2vnlNT7f802w1oQFUgTWpbSQ_1WF1o1xXoO7zERrDQqPjZjW_dFpVt1VvUVP1UKTP4VPjyEIpHqik/s320/untitled.bmp" border="0" /></div><br /><div> </div>Many people visiting these tribes feel compelled to help them out somehow. This "help" usually comes in the form of donations of one sort or another and unfortunately often has a long run, negative impact on the tribe. The two most common donations, money and candy, incentivize parents to make their children beg rather than going to school and lead to rotting teeth, respectively. Aware of the possible negative consequences of donations but still wanting to help, we decided to bring some school supplies.<br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158634356191176114" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEhLE8578FtnPEOaX5A6wuKjBwUKJRLNfktJlOSm1Bvh0OSmQC6a3QOnVAeZkP_-gcL4Vyfwtk0g5qOPhyphenhyphen8QHd-46JJdR6fsUo7pD-lv2EN0mumHR1cTFKhKqiWF8sblogW-2aj3OIrInI/s320/CIMG3332.JPG" border="0" />The children were all too happy to take them.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158634347601241506" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMXdmbYNau6yfOtpunQ2siX42rWVyzDxzVlvuxO0wsb5hxnThayALv-EjRoqsMYa3I27qFTIHZ7c4GhXdYjcCPG5J5lvCG50BxBem_Z_2H2s2ZE8v7qCNt_dPAtnI_TjaRNt-IacaAxqgw/s320/CIMG3338.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><div></div>The second day, we visited a number of other tribal villages. Unfortunately these were crawling with tourists who had noticeably affected the tribes. Far be it from me to criticize the tribes who are simply trying to make a buck. However, watching satellite TV at night is hardly something I associate with tribal traditions.<br /><br /><div><br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158630091288651090" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJlarAOymPFnqp8cng4DxPQvs63zo-QshOl_Y4NIoWm0hlinfkQLKxGIFtKzNz6b3pRquF3wHGTmx7iNmNCLRaW0HRpCrHQ9kRPH6lfBRYS49n8vS3mLoN7fZsny4u7w5RdLEc4xCHNKhU/s320/CIMG3359.JPG" border="0" /><br /><p>The real treat, however, was hiking between these tourist traps.</p><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158630104173552994" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ddTgvUdZUlz7KpN_YVaNXvPp6yJZUbCZf2wCj2ddwptJ2ZySZsVoIPC4xdc0WoJPc7_QuO-LzJCdhmfXn0VDWKnf8KAp3rLRBQE_bVXsMHVvjvNqNhrA527uixstA7UPhvWSGH-4o18v/s320/CIMG3355.JPG" border="0" /><br /></p> The bucolic hillsides of northern Thailand abound with photo opportunities.<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158630121353422210" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqKPasnJZ39Aa7Vp_SoyybpRbaCtuhDnv5-_G182pZ8h_XU2kC0gFZtBk-gXmqmy29YROOjknG4aOspB7vlTvGhc0yRIuWsbJTSIZZqIvTKOD7RMhb-0n58a9FSxAfKHW10SJKSvBVrZbm/s320/CIMG3350.JPG" border="0" /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5158630134238324114" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA9Pc0Pid24pevk-OBOsXopuiJX51kYWSh54aQvW3jaZucgEy-D13B5UeP3OMQrnnQUmVBocI-9WIpjpEDn78kQR_ZrRDVlVQvWJmtj5x5icQwpCGqGJIS1X3e-WKK6OwXvW1_DTz5P9SH/s320/CIMG3348.JPG" border="0" /><br /><p>One of the most popular reasons for visiting Chang Mai is to take a Thai massage course. Unfortunately we didn't have time for one of the longer and more intensive courses, so we learned some basics in one day.<br /></p><p><br /></p><p> We had a few hours before our flight out of Chang Mai and decided to check out Wat Phra Singh.<br /></p><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159453479468967506" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4jm49Xl8d4fqtqis7bGHyi4tmoT_ZEM42xkdtHbV0BLd9XGEn-x3YQbrlru4L02ByudKdlSQu3MCE8_KTU0kSQnUmxttkrDGP7IbGGjznn1Zdp7cwTqRyUNXKlLFXQfdlyF6t0G_x-e59/s320/CIMG3408.JPG" border="0" /><br />Wat Phra Singh, established in 1345, is widely acknowledged as the most impressive of Chang Mai's nearly 300 temples.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159450533121402402" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEU7jYnqMjGcslonZQHbOTE_X9N6IuCmbTwxIsh-jUBunEjYXPIHUnrmVNBU0w3xx3ytldyzuydKvxcagtrpZC-WpU8QtVN8til-PztA10OhKD1b5FmmgN4hLTqKffVfo3TG4C1p_wdBiE/s320/CIMG3382.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><div>The ornate and elaborate interior decorations contrast with the traditional, if not unspectacular, exterior.<br /></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159452302647928370" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOatUIIfyq9nmeEHFFC1X5vcZa9X6AYPqFsg2U2bKwFatFMwdqCNAXyht_cIKIVF864nYn3Tsd0XbweksCGddL_UEdTMuY3rZDzkfmZw5V1pvqRS-ciFhA05dL0izIhrBd0FnbEIJvDO8Q/s320/CIMG3395.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5159453140166551106" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwyL9wSKKve1_Jn6S9kKhAMKdKa3hO6zDMUCyWhsiwZbbs4I5PIcH-d2BU6CLvBqetjtWa3iRzgiXaIXbYMmK_qDS-Ml3yEcjsoaOP9_6ZJH3b4KdLXmJmW2MsjNPOuBzDYYLSnHglYyEG/s320/CIMG3404.JPG" border="0" /><br />On a separate note, January 25th, the day we left Chang Mai, marked day 83 of our journey so far and thus the exact midway point of the trip.<br /><br /><p></p></div></div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-15972577730033691642008-01-24T23:30:00.000-05:002008-01-24T11:31:31.257-05:00Bangkok, Thailand<div>Though we were in Bangkok for four days, we really only spent two sightseeing. We spent the two down days fending off a stomach bug, sending some gear home and figuring out some logistics issues. The other two days though were packed with water taxis, Wat Pho, China Town, Muay Thai boxing, Thai cooking class, and Jim Thompson's house.<br /><div><br />Bangkok, like Venice, is built around a series of canals, or <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khlong">khlong</a>, that crisscross city. Since these are mostly straight compared to the labyrinthine road system, watercraft have always offered a compelling alternative to overland transportation. As a result a highly efficient and inexpensive ferry system developed alongside, if not before, the rest of the city's more traditional public transportation options. We took the public ferries many times, including to Wat Pho. Pictured below is a private water taxi on Chao Phraya River.<br /><br /><br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5157227157796249298" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9pOISErBIlChZAXHPJEytteGCVIOZ9kn2a_VPUtI2t7qyTzPgTaalHhgaVTLtvK4l8aCGlIdxfoxNjz5PjogrzO90jvUTAByfwxJlD4X3A8wPAnHWZF-FrPdKF8gWsukGe57NFreKBrtM/s320/CIMG3279.JPG" border="0" /><br />Pictured below: Modern Thai homes built on the khlongs.<br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5157227153501281986" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT3AGRTbpidqByOxgwMC4cbSpCqZlBQo2hY-6UBwFDSG_OGkQPWR1Uzf-vsXdndZYmaHKrhY5kjVVcErH3me8kWDMZ2eyudEryJVySclen9DhevC1GzA2-HwbQ0R5beXWDPWoGms2vq8gC/s320/CIMG3278.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wat_Pho">Wat Pho</a> is the oldest, largest, and most famous Buddhist temple, or wat, in Bangkok. It is home to a 46 meter long, gold plated, reclining Buddha.<br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5157227149206314658" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqPJJ3kqhgVzYyGyPIMCJe8c9Hkup-crpkHWW_II1lWB8H_ne2HG8xcj1Hy1SJdqIiUhVmAMfuMGRUSDIq6D0cD6gQx3auHlOFGnkpGziClzY5u28Y7yMTjLIR0ci-GiesprXyZ5MJDj28/s320/CIMG3177.JPG" border="0" /></p>Wat Pho has traditionally served as a monastery, a school for medicine, and is widely acknowledged as the birthplace of Thai massage. Pictured below are some of the ornately decorated shrines in the Wat Pho complex.<br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5157227153501281970" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhkDQo2InE5VVLVluADLwG-DziZ1I16503eJwXTMmV1C_BEBlBtx-l1EK4SslA5Dev_AVwAZZw9-IoubcyhzSlwKCZpYp-_BRjwlw8OjLTqB2MXRg73WTEFu5Gt2S1tbStgKQK9Kucf_WU/s320/CIMG3184.JPG" border="0" />After visiting Wat Pho, we tried to visit the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Palace%2C_Bangkok">Grand Palace</a>, adjacent to the temple complex. The Grand Palace was the former home of Thai kings but now is used only for royal ceremonies. Unfortunately just such a ceremony was taking place the day we tried to visit and the palace was closed to visitors.<br /></p>Fortunately there is never a shortage of things to do in Bangkok so we headed to Chinatown for lunch. Ellie and I recalled our favorite Chinese foods as we meandered through stores covered with Chinese writing and filled wit h the inexplicably ubiquitous <a href="http://i5.ebayimg.com/03/i/05/d4/08/51_1.JPG">waving cat</a>. We also toured the nearby Thieves Market that, like many other markets we've seen, is filled with counterfeit watches, clothes, and designer bags.<br /><br />That evening we visited the Ratchadamnoen Boxing stadium to watch a few rounds of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muay_Thai">Muay Thai</a> boxing, Thailand's official sport. We arrived early and found the best view from the cheap seats section. Later we woul d find out that this happened to be the gamblers area - which goes a long way to explaining the riotous background noise in this video.<br /><br /><p><a style="left: 0px ! important; top: 0px ! important;" title="Click here to block this object with Adblock Plus" class="abp-objtab visible ontop" href="http://www.youtube.com/v/zOQieW1fT4Q&rel=1"></a><a style="left: 0px ! important; top: 0px ! important;" title="Click here to block this object with Adblock Plus" class="abp-objtab visible ontop" href="http://www.youtube.com/v/zOQieW1fT4Q&rel=1"></a><a style="left: 0px ! important; top: 0px ! important;" title="Click here to block this object with Adblock Plus" class="abp-objtab visible ontop" href="http://www.youtube.com/v/zOQieW1fT4Q&rel=1"></a><a style="left: 0px ! important; top: 0px ! important;" title="Click here to block this object with Adblock Plus" class="abp-objtab visible ontop" href="http://www.youtube.com/v/zOQieW1fT4Q&rel=1"></a><object height="355" width="425"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/zOQieW1fT4Q&rel=1"><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/zOQieW1fT4Q&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" height="355" width="425"></embed></object></p><br /><br />We spent the next morning in cooking class learning how to prepare traditional Thai dishes like pad thai and tom yam soup.<br /><p><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdMCNv-LbRxu9cTCIeJs6-slep9f5yK9UhuP78ecQGg8oWD2OR1xHd62fPc_DMhHK4NbAwYiGa0D4HiXevgq5G0DwVkJzm7LW4CiX1PCj1Qg1BB0EVk_XilHuAuMlDIDZgX7RgbGDibuM/s320/IMG_2715.JPG" border="0" /><br />Filled with delicious food and confident in our culinary abilities, we left cooking class and headed for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jim_Thompson_House">Jim Thompson's House</a>. The home, designed by Thompson, features a prominent garden and a large collection of regional paintings and statues.<br /></p><br /><p><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJiyxmq7yssyqc2UsfytLHdfkVySP3sztaDKTTMFVPxd1TpMxIpGQE3HN8s0AKeU7jBxS9lN3sJK0Vm2nPQaoZItII3xPTyQCFYzA-qDhVOLEzkZ_zd9-9sgPqZ5KmVWFIxe2F6-FVJk/s320/IMG_2723.JPG" border="0" /></p><br />Thompson, born in Greenville, Delaware, led an exceptional life as an <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jim_Thompson_%28designer%29">architect turned CIA agent turned international silk mogul</a>. In 1967 he went on a walk while traveling in Malaysia and never returned. His unexplained disappearance is, perhaps, the regions greatest unsolved mystery and still the subject of much speculation.<br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5157227162091216610" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; cursor: pointer; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu8JSRpgr2fLG-JY-JfX4o9k2y2SmgDt75ugBUXTUT1TNAyFfqX1IMO6lxEn3L35BJOQyVFVDds6dQihOzRzVbRUuSJ8495_kE0W8k20OM8iJ7FnLsOgeSwPTFGIfEcrTkRoHsQzZq-lPL/s320/CIMG3281.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-52751587504157247482008-01-18T02:08:00.000-05:002008-01-18T12:26:40.369-05:00Temples of Angkor: Siem Reap, CambodiaBetween the 9th and 13th centuries AD, Kmher kings in Cambodia ruled an empire from Burma to Vietnam. The seat of this great empire was known as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor">Angkor</a> and boasted a population of more than one million people. During this period the kings built many grand temples and palaces to themselves, their parents and mostly to their ability to outdo their predecessors. In 1431 AD the Thais invaded the Angkor and the Cambodians moved the capital to Phnom Penh. Today the closest city to Angkor is Siem Reap - we stayed there for a few evenings while exploring the ruins during the days.<br /><br />A few statues on the bridge crossing the moat into <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor_Thom">Angkor Thom</a>, the last capital city in Angkor. These devas (gods) are attempting to churn the Ocean of Milk to extract the elixir of immortality.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgInfpe8yj1K7RXYtnuB9W_W-Bty1LY3qWils-vS8aqhbb-mZgFm3oAXR-9516copbKxjsRKbmdUL8dlnrg2Tvilop5_muMoCKkwqI5SQKRxhGi_gcW0jMdoBfq9M8KGZFLmbwcSNNF6CRA/s1600-h/CIMG2908.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgInfpe8yj1K7RXYtnuB9W_W-Bty1LY3qWils-vS8aqhbb-mZgFm3oAXR-9516copbKxjsRKbmdUL8dlnrg2Tvilop5_muMoCKkwqI5SQKRxhGi_gcW0jMdoBfq9M8KGZFLmbwcSNNF6CRA/s320/CIMG2908.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155976347355536914" border="0" /></a><br />A gate into Angkor Thom - two rows of Devas (pictured above) flank the road leading into the city.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVHXzfpe-JMqQaWXa7Y9a_RNipD_R1JznEImlszDDGfs3uQjVo2LY7sXnELcDLipWQwk9C9xLZNpcVvaEy_vVtJUofI6DjS5gYZy7w37YfDGjrj3PhRtUndNeIatgbX_8865RcTJyJtYt/s1600-h/CIMG2910.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVHXzfpe-JMqQaWXa7Y9a_RNipD_R1JznEImlszDDGfs3uQjVo2LY7sXnELcDLipWQwk9C9xLZNpcVvaEy_vVtJUofI6DjS5gYZy7w37YfDGjrj3PhRtUndNeIatgbX_8865RcTJyJtYt/s320/CIMG2910.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155976351650504226" border="0" /></a><br />Mysterious faces atop the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayon">Bayon</a> temple located in the center of Angkor Thom.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghl76TT8ha_GxVq-VIwGAO-YuF9fJIqo4rr2Gpw0PmF4zYRfhPhQnyNDZ_Mc5JWT2ZSMkI3zn3ckcisYuP7b5OaF5KAKfsEcVNp4HSxSEsI5J2trDK8ScwzrL63475upnNg8OxGuQR69F9/s1600-h/CIMG2919.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghl76TT8ha_GxVq-VIwGAO-YuF9fJIqo4rr2Gpw0PmF4zYRfhPhQnyNDZ_Mc5JWT2ZSMkI3zn3ckcisYuP7b5OaF5KAKfsEcVNp4HSxSEsI5J2trDK8ScwzrL63475upnNg8OxGuQR69F9/s320/CIMG2919.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155975642980900338" border="0" /></a><br />My favorite temple was, by far, was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ta_Prohm">Ta Prohm</a>. Originally built in 1186 AD as a monastery or university, the temple is currently in a state of disrepair and features a number of prominent trees growing out of walls and buildings.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVJUXFUiu-CWt_EW1SGhAXUSni2GNCEXOdwSFE6ocNC8kGd8e44CHc97qNx9hlFIupM3Uk-z3iODaJ8iIcIrZEjCsOvEPDJ3MwZNmts14AVuelP-FkVkrIjH4KqKlT3FBs93OilesxLjYR/s1600-h/CIMG2977.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVJUXFUiu-CWt_EW1SGhAXUSni2GNCEXOdwSFE6ocNC8kGd8e44CHc97qNx9hlFIupM3Uk-z3iODaJ8iIcIrZEjCsOvEPDJ3MwZNmts14AVuelP-FkVkrIjH4KqKlT3FBs93OilesxLjYR/s320/CIMG2977.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155975634390965698" border="0" /></a>More serpentine roots in Ta Prohm.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOlg_5Vpd4FpdpIZfO-Bm4sir5WKATeUnad9DVrs3ZknjE43QVjQjJEr-soHq8Xg7nSeXecBnLa6L1VvK4iCZLP4DAgx9ivUgJgkorXr8zFv2mlswEIcXy9lWrO94nC6CLMaGYoQK3GJ9h/s1600-h/CIMG2994.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOlg_5Vpd4FpdpIZfO-Bm4sir5WKATeUnad9DVrs3ZknjE43QVjQjJEr-soHq8Xg7nSeXecBnLa6L1VvK4iCZLP4DAgx9ivUgJgkorXr8zFv2mlswEIcXy9lWrO94nC6CLMaGYoQK3GJ9h/s320/CIMG2994.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155975630095998386" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwIyeKDAoxnUv2e1_TEIfVaNiaBuGpfndEZUMRowzRTm6F1jKIkcFtlAJ1STJcDacpALrFptgH0Y8-bBz9rRfozpiMYgihdC806KzEt4rHMXpTMzVmpsNkCv8XfvLTWxaypdS2XjQ1QltD/s1600-h/CIMG2950.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwIyeKDAoxnUv2e1_TEIfVaNiaBuGpfndEZUMRowzRTm6F1jKIkcFtlAJ1STJcDacpALrFptgH0Y8-bBz9rRfozpiMYgihdC806KzEt4rHMXpTMzVmpsNkCv8XfvLTWxaypdS2XjQ1QltD/s320/CIMG2950.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155975638685933010" border="0" /></a>A few more temples in Angkor Thom.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfp4i1iQEkc864T2sdSBoM_jGzh85tPXibKZq6FMZI0TUXEvVu4pR0oeDmBKTLCSlNOdpLVdPD6PcQpD2_MBNr9R1QdRlpzzwbiQZ6aQG2qSrQ-CFdCcIFg3L50_xKU8CTIEcSlVMfMWVp/s1600-h/CIMG2940.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfp4i1iQEkc864T2sdSBoM_jGzh85tPXibKZq6FMZI0TUXEvVu4pR0oeDmBKTLCSlNOdpLVdPD6PcQpD2_MBNr9R1QdRlpzzwbiQZ6aQG2qSrQ-CFdCcIFg3L50_xKU8CTIEcSlVMfMWVp/s320/CIMG2940.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155975638685933026" border="0" /></a>Iconic pink sandstone and intricate carvings at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banteay_Srei">Banteay Srei</a>, 25 km north and east of the main Angkor complex.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRBMbk_MDxy_6onSA2XAjqlh2e5bBIeLWwUnBCf9XsojWaOacevZlU5SyJgV2p2C8B2fIP-3NVmOU_DwNB7-M96filfzDoiYKT-T7txP24mn_LVuCJYPHeoNUn5h453hjhX5Tnre3RTDC/s1600-h/CIMG3129.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRBMbk_MDxy_6onSA2XAjqlh2e5bBIeLWwUnBCf9XsojWaOacevZlU5SyJgV2p2C8B2fIP-3NVmOU_DwNB7-M96filfzDoiYKT-T7txP24mn_LVuCJYPHeoNUn5h453hjhX5Tnre3RTDC/s320/CIMG3129.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155974689498160546" border="0" /></a><br />The best preserved and most well known of all the temples in the Angkor complex is, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor_Wat">Angkor Wat</a>. Many visitors mistakenly refer to the entire group of temples in Angkor as Angkor Wat when that term refers to the specific temple pictured below.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMPtY0v8SfIB8Yu8xomqox0DnzdF_6ggxspBJiG_IR6VjqCjMHDenV_8i_rmTjhPzlRPMm2q6R4RqgOMnvSaFSptoW4ANz2toAqj4bCxYwUcABvTAgXIFN3jC-7aJqCjmAztAzaJjvh03/s1600-h/CIMG3011.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMPtY0v8SfIB8Yu8xomqox0DnzdF_6ggxspBJiG_IR6VjqCjMHDenV_8i_rmTjhPzlRPMm2q6R4RqgOMnvSaFSptoW4ANz2toAqj4bCxYwUcABvTAgXIFN3jC-7aJqCjmAztAzaJjvh03/s320/CIMG3011.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155974685203193234" border="0" /></a><br />An unfortunately cloudy shot of Angkor Wat from the air.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Ytl0fOwfzUPTwBLPuaDgR9x3RZD146K2NpsFc7Z0mJyKY50Of4Ega0ykfjA0TtZTKpUZ6jPeHQuQWPxuPpZP7NsT7l53hzDblXd8MqQiChDFKLi3uDAySeEO3BqZTUvugg0qkuQuqYGd/s1600-h/CIMG3089.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Ytl0fOwfzUPTwBLPuaDgR9x3RZD146K2NpsFc7Z0mJyKY50Of4Ega0ykfjA0TtZTKpUZ6jPeHQuQWPxuPpZP7NsT7l53hzDblXd8MqQiChDFKLi3uDAySeEO3BqZTUvugg0qkuQuqYGd/s320/CIMG3089.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155974676613258594" border="0" /></a><br />Another shot of Angkor Wat from the air, showing the moat surrounding the temple.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyg2mvww5cBfJ2seULHw1KdZsYEaeAWUp_Lv7z02zzp37XG0y_gmGigWDZRRSNt9aefND1fHPrQJbGYgGUtTFcdMwLbm0lqsVsDLIYnkSM99VEya6NvI8SHGTLBsXfZKLGWKCUVBUMtBCE/s1600-h/CIMG3094.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyg2mvww5cBfJ2seULHw1KdZsYEaeAWUp_Lv7z02zzp37XG0y_gmGigWDZRRSNt9aefND1fHPrQJbGYgGUtTFcdMwLbm0lqsVsDLIYnkSM99VEya6NvI8SHGTLBsXfZKLGWKCUVBUMtBCE/s320/CIMG3094.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155974680908225906" border="0" /></a><br />Angkor Wat is known, among many reasons, for the bas-relief carvings adorning many of its walls. The picture below shows King Rama's Monkey Army engaged in furious combat.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhClJilXw5Ql3EnK8YZyb-NscCg0SIFFg5kfWGKzJHgVUSya03WSemPxDs9lf0PSBiwkgbCqjBEOC8kD6U3tKCFwRNuuC3CJ0enY-YT1pXWR5NCs9f2Q76j8SxEV4IJ4GdkwkEvdr747DwD/s1600-h/CIMG3066.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhClJilXw5Ql3EnK8YZyb-NscCg0SIFFg5kfWGKzJHgVUSya03WSemPxDs9lf0PSBiwkgbCqjBEOC8kD6U3tKCFwRNuuC3CJ0enY-YT1pXWR5NCs9f2Q76j8SxEV4IJ4GdkwkEvdr747DwD/s320/CIMG3066.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155978743947288114" border="0" /></a><br />The backside of Angkor Wat.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixu-JpFide32j6xSLcNkXDbsZbem92TLASmEYV7IdBIvjqwrNPSRXlE_JqM3-efQyZ0R1AHXHGwnVXe8VMgmUG3V24xtjO1szMd2hdTnjdz0g5VjLgdJA6_t-N-bmWF-JkNms5NGzswALm/s1600-h/CIMG3055.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixu-JpFide32j6xSLcNkXDbsZbem92TLASmEYV7IdBIvjqwrNPSRXlE_JqM3-efQyZ0R1AHXHGwnVXe8VMgmUG3V24xtjO1szMd2hdTnjdz0g5VjLgdJA6_t-N-bmWF-JkNms5NGzswALm/s320/CIMG3055.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155974680908225922" border="0" /></a>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-73547928507348698662008-01-16T04:22:00.001-05:002008-01-16T10:03:52.811-05:00Phnom Penh, CambodiaCambodia is an intriguing and exotic place, we found this out quickly in our first hour in the Phnom Penh. Walking out of our guest house, I was surprised to find an elephant strolling down the street followed by some saffron colored monks.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4V3oC3ogqKJtK5pNAEDujwECZ9IPDdRl8ughrpiwVorKifDILl5hqNk_g3yMAjwRcOd8AW_3p3QhJi8c8OTMqiCYSYo6j1WVGRUCLKQOVHvt-vWFK6AiHnZOEOzqjdO2zEnU8JEibAR8c/s1600-h/CIMG2822.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4V3oC3ogqKJtK5pNAEDujwECZ9IPDdRl8ughrpiwVorKifDILl5hqNk_g3yMAjwRcOd8AW_3p3QhJi8c8OTMqiCYSYo6j1WVGRUCLKQOVHvt-vWFK6AiHnZOEOzqjdO2zEnU8JEibAR8c/s320/CIMG2822.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5156004049894596210" border="0" /></a><br />Shortly thereafter, we walked past a gas station. Since there are very few real gas stations in Cambodia, most motorcycle drivers buy their gasoline in one liter beverage bottles from stands on the side of the road.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiOS7fU_x4x9-wf3jJ02_stTP368Gcq67hkEWppRTTcoIEYnrhaFVNrcsVuIEXQZzq_QaX4aq0Gp_QuP9SNSHZnO_CxCrm9liTy8OupNA06uSZKshQkFWujctaAf5D8gxUV2FaReUGKbPE/s1600-h/CIMG2880.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiOS7fU_x4x9-wf3jJ02_stTP368Gcq67hkEWppRTTcoIEYnrhaFVNrcsVuIEXQZzq_QaX4aq0Gp_QuP9SNSHZnO_CxCrm9liTy8OupNA06uSZKshQkFWujctaAf5D8gxUV2FaReUGKbPE/s320/CIMG2880.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5156005570313019026" border="0" /></a>Finally, we walked past a food market where a number of vendors were selling bugs - grub worms, crickets, beetles, and tarantulas. These are a very normal part of the Cambodian diet and reflect a period of time where resources were scarce and people ate anything they could just to get by.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuc4jyxD0mb3uDTnyKRgBoRwRW_4_gVRyoXJCnMCIYOn_YtlrnMv_nxsUY6v5t08zK7B8voOjMsRbwxLWo0RbRUz5ljEUlZ1qLPbfecCPJ54GUP5UohKcI7_cIDWX0ApO0fqZO45oTGkGq/s1600-h/CIMG2879.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuc4jyxD0mb3uDTnyKRgBoRwRW_4_gVRyoXJCnMCIYOn_YtlrnMv_nxsUY6v5t08zK7B8voOjMsRbwxLWo0RbRUz5ljEUlZ1qLPbfecCPJ54GUP5UohKcI7_cIDWX0ApO0fqZO45oTGkGq/s320/CIMG2879.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155347546963533106" border="0" /></a>Of course, when in Rome...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeYih_-R_eOUrkhTP7-zOdaT3u7bSzaBwvYOAKg3mZ_haaWpJwcX_UbILCal86V0JDvr0gG2X1S_OceLdOkn1a4ekJpCiNNpRWWnogt_cpoAOcgo6-tIpfVfTjDyedM9TMYtXFwFCjcPo/s1600-h/CIMG2830.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeYih_-R_eOUrkhTP7-zOdaT3u7bSzaBwvYOAKg3mZ_haaWpJwcX_UbILCal86V0JDvr0gG2X1S_OceLdOkn1a4ekJpCiNNpRWWnogt_cpoAOcgo6-tIpfVfTjDyedM9TMYtXFwFCjcPo/s320/CIMG2830.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155345975005502690" border="0" /></a>In case you were wondering, they taste a bit like soft shelled crab.<br /><br />Not all Cambodian cuisine is so strange, most are stir fried or curried meats and vegetables. The national dish, amok, a coconut and lemon grass curried fish served in a banana leaf.<br /><br />We left Phnom Penh by boat, headed for Siem Reap. The six hour trip follows the Tonle Sap river north to the eponymous lake - Siem Reap is on the north side.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5G3ZDMW5edpK9b1jdEB68HcyEPGY_HexMFfldgYUThEqgOELuU1Dkp0xF-91z7eD3gDrO6fZHFwbbFe03jPCT4cZwtvlMwOCgKY1n41pICiY4TA5YdYQqtEgO5dB6F1hJtLz44NbSyVo/s1600-h/CIMG2893.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW5G3ZDMW5edpK9b1jdEB68HcyEPGY_HexMFfldgYUThEqgOELuU1Dkp0xF-91z7eD3gDrO6fZHFwbbFe03jPCT4cZwtvlMwOCgKY1n41pICiY4TA5YdYQqtEgO5dB6F1hJtLz44NbSyVo/s320/CIMG2893.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155351201980702034" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We passed a number of bamboo shacks and fishing villages along the river.<br /><br /><object height="355" width="425"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/PCauMdEjdA0&rel=1"><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/PCauMdEjdA0&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" height="355" width="425"></embed></object><br /><br />The lake, however, was so large that we couldn't see anything but water for the last three hours.Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-21655785577548240782008-01-16T03:50:00.000-05:002008-01-16T09:48:45.588-05:00Choeung Ek, Tuol Sleng, and the Landmine MuseumThough nearly 30 years have passed since Vietnamese troops ousted Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge from power, Cambodia is still struggling to recover. Experts estimate that between 1.7 and 2.3 million people died as the direct result of the Khmer Rouge between 1975 and 1979. Pol Pot's goal, to make Cambodia into a peasant dominated Marxist society, involved the torture and execution of not only foreigners, intellectuals, and government officials but also their families and friends. These policies resulted in the almost complete decimation of Cambodia's human and physical capital base. Today, the country struggles to cope with insufficient infrastructure and a dearth of teachers. Unfortunately these problems will likely increase with the country's booming population, 40 percent of which are less than 15 years old and lack any education or skills.<br /><br />Our first stop in Phnom Penh was the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choeung_Ek">Choeung Ek</a> killing fields - though there were many other execution sites around the country, Choeung Ek is believed to be the largest. Khmer Rouge soldiers executed about 17,000 civilians here during Pol Pot's four year genocidal regime. Walking around the site is a morbid experience as clothing and bone fragments still stick up from the soil. Nearly 8,000 skeletons have been disinterred from 89 of 129 mass graves on the site and the remains are housed inside a gleaming white stupa.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfbEXolFg31Tp2PVVov024vSHw_XY_6OKUvIYFnROv0mG68qtNRGvgtbFY0t8p3PNYLddcEtbjX85o8LV8_biKi1zh3G942MhunwJ5vCWcW9DBBVVi_tMLl5BOXhbmYVpMOlmyZoW65c3M/s1600-h/CIMG2855.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfbEXolFg31Tp2PVVov024vSHw_XY_6OKUvIYFnROv0mG68qtNRGvgtbFY0t8p3PNYLddcEtbjX85o8LV8_biKi1zh3G942MhunwJ5vCWcW9DBBVVi_tMLl5BOXhbmYVpMOlmyZoW65c3M/s320/CIMG2855.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155346245588442354" border="0" /></a> Our next stop was the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuol_Sleng">Tuol Sleng</a> Prison. The Khmer Rouge tortured between 17,000 and 20,000 people here that were accused of betraying the revolution. The site, a former high school, was named S-21 for Security Prison 21. The prisoners, if they weren't killed during interrogation, were invariably shipped to Choeung Ek afterwards to be executed.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0DNoRnd6HDvZhzUiKLr9K2ZXXt1SXZw2VoInszKHzC3Fl4OIX7r88eLy7DnhYO3ORpDlSbhLbJ143b7SrfCtHrzT4XuZAwKVcQzfd7l_swRnuWcesWX4cjGhfFFyXEG6GRDWmSq3jF2u2/s1600-h/CIMG2860.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0DNoRnd6HDvZhzUiKLr9K2ZXXt1SXZw2VoInszKHzC3Fl4OIX7r88eLy7DnhYO3ORpDlSbhLbJ143b7SrfCtHrzT4XuZAwKVcQzfd7l_swRnuWcesWX4cjGhfFFyXEG6GRDWmSq3jF2u2/s320/CIMG2860.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155346507581447426" border="0" /></a><br />Signs on the prison walls ask visitors to be quiet but they are unnecessary, the records of the atrocities committed there command silence.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCjqoAPiHOoeUTVB_JslATEUS_hwN1v5BCHhpS908NlaLYPfIfDDQtCtceZFAkTDgQKOKS_TFWGxBKw1b0KyjXpbLBSU8kH4vN_1py4wfQLkmBQrZMI_n4xvsd4lY9-uAMSffYA9Gg2br/s1600-h/CIMG2873.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCjqoAPiHOoeUTVB_JslATEUS_hwN1v5BCHhpS908NlaLYPfIfDDQtCtceZFAkTDgQKOKS_TFWGxBKw1b0KyjXpbLBSU8kH4vN_1py4wfQLkmBQrZMI_n4xvsd4lY9-uAMSffYA9Gg2br/s320/CIMG2873.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155347065927195938" border="0" /></a><br /><br />If there was one bright spot among the many awful things we saw in Cambodia, it was <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aki_Ra">Aki Ra</a>, founder of the <a href="http://www.cambodialandminemuseum.org/">Cambodian Land Mine Museum Relief Fund</a>. As a child, Aki's parents were killed by the Khmer Rouge who then forced him to become a child soldier and plant land mines. Later when Vietnamese forces took over Cambodia they forced him to lay land mines for them. After the Paris peace conference in 1989 Aki was able to leave the army and began clearing land mines with little more than a long handled hoe and a screwdriver.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1L_Vj53VcEyZ4Cc2XD-KSdbhuPXMCe-rDuTJnoXJSVtHXxq536kS680dD7tAgyrio-LXLqeyyvp7SaPWtyKRw0T1ChOrh27z1af36O4NRRymMVE1Baa2X0xp4VYuqWCp6_hDoGdMca5HH/s1600-h/CIMG3145.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1L_Vj53VcEyZ4Cc2XD-KSdbhuPXMCe-rDuTJnoXJSVtHXxq536kS680dD7tAgyrio-LXLqeyyvp7SaPWtyKRw0T1ChOrh27z1af36O4NRRymMVE1Baa2X0xp4VYuqWCp6_hDoGdMca5HH/s320/CIMG3145.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155997607443652162" border="0" /></a>In the years since, Aki's efforts have expanded to helping child victims of land mines with the support of a museum and international donations. The museum houses some 50,000 land mines, bombs, and mortars that Aki has cleared.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlP4-tIN12b9yU7Az4vkQef1xFTSJOXBcP_XRJHvC-pQWBhBKDs1EC8PrD5i3HMxxFXWCNGVVFtZr5OVjTU2jN73NCPr_nnlGCDSWCO9G4pa7OiE1UtR_CsTgrS16U682EJaOw2-t4tR8/s1600-h/CIMG3150.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGlP4-tIN12b9yU7Az4vkQef1xFTSJOXBcP_XRJHvC-pQWBhBKDs1EC8PrD5i3HMxxFXWCNGVVFtZr5OVjTU2jN73NCPr_nnlGCDSWCO9G4pa7OiE1UtR_CsTgrS16U682EJaOw2-t4tR8/s320/CIMG3150.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155997624623521362" border="0" /></a>Though Aki's efforts are noteworthy, there is still a great deal of work to be done. Experts estimate that there are still more than 4 million land mines in Cambodia and each year they kill or wound hundreds, mostly children.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihijKXXkC7ePYf53r4nR5DWBB6j4cVQqS0h7tVcQ5_WRvD20V0LexOs_aX1R7C9ydUbn3L55nxhyphenhyphenpotmbV4EvXrZjPivh0APD_-xLXrhjvOJCwpGsdEY4DQZfAM4lLq7U8Wp8yIK-Sa07i/s1600-h/CIMG3154.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihijKXXkC7ePYf53r4nR5DWBB6j4cVQqS0h7tVcQ5_WRvD20V0LexOs_aX1R7C9ydUbn3L55nxhyphenhyphenpotmbV4EvXrZjPivh0APD_-xLXrhjvOJCwpGsdEY4DQZfAM4lLq7U8Wp8yIK-Sa07i/s320/CIMG3154.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5155997646098357858" border="0" /></a>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-68910728562504016422008-01-04T08:57:00.000-05:002008-01-10T09:16:36.143-05:00Vietnam<div>The best thing about Vietnam, hands down, has been the food - really good, cheap food. A baguette sandwich with pork and vegetables costs only 30 cents and a full dinner with drinks can be as little as three dollars. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivFX2vGNsrvnXnswi6MyhN4lUfFL0E31SNgsigz_eQu7mw1sYyd2eyIPl4Sv9xZa5N7NNXbeZfFYQtls35DmFLK9LW1z0d0ce3wlvzT9om4xcUhyphenhyphenIgoNMxXjSMEnheqJWg04K_mYv-Ilgv/s1600-h/CIMG2566.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152750174081211506" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivFX2vGNsrvnXnswi6MyhN4lUfFL0E31SNgsigz_eQu7mw1sYyd2eyIPl4Sv9xZa5N7NNXbeZfFYQtls35DmFLK9LW1z0d0ce3wlvzT9om4xcUhyphenhyphenIgoNMxXjSMEnheqJWg04K_mYv-Ilgv/s320/CIMG2566.JPG" border="0" /></a> My favorites have been baguette sandwiches from street vendors and a cook-it-yourself beef meal served with a hot plate (pictured below).</div><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152749465411607586" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirlj4radTuQWU4CnP0jzJb5UEfwaafE0twEwN0UpKjFTATrr4z52yC5V-TnmzojcjpmHcyOMHzsAmfX8fg9IThGLjbAYMN0_E7WRj5uYEx7x-wteccv17Q3MVXtQuGAs798ZG3AeGq7Bla/s320/CIMG2531.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><br /><br /><div>We flew into Hanoi and spent a few days there before heading north to Halong Bay then south to Nha Trang before coming north to Hoi An. The first thing you will notice in Hanoi, like the rest of Vietnam, is that scooters make up 95% of the traffic. Since these are smaller and more agile than the large automobiles that make up most of the traffic in the US, traffic behaves much differently here than it does there. Rather than making a mad dash across the street as you might in America, the safest way to cross in Vietnam is to wade slowly into the street and let the motorbikes pass around you. This is generally how the drivers deal with each other as well. Most intersections do not have stop signs or stop lights so the drivers simply make their way slowly through in no particular order. It is not unusual to see traffic moving simultaneously in four directions through the same intersection.<br /></div><br /><br /><div><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoan_Kiem_Lake">Hoan Kiem Lake</a> lies right in the center of Hanoi - and in the center of Hoan Kiem Lake is Tortoise Tower (pictured below) and Ngoc Son Temple. In the 18th century, a Confucian master built the temple to honor a 13th century general. Sometime in between those two dates someone built Tortoise Tower to honor the tortoise who allegedly swallowed the general's sword.</div><br /><br /><br /><div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152749478296509506" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMq6P5aYTXPlT7FGMbq1zBsKJJS87wqdXmIWVv_Ga9POTlSvhIzjEYj1S2CXcG_GgVi1WdLHx2S3n-jr13ge3QpA5v7KyHJRcMS25jZSuO3HuCTJK8pMVU4g67EJqoiE_SXnPN2HzbxMN5/s320/CIMG2537.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />We walked by St Joseph Cathedral many times as it was about two blocks away from our hotel. When the Nguyen King handed Hanoi over to the French in 1886, they promptly destroyed Bao Thien pagoda and built the cathedral in its place. The cathedral was modeled after Notre Dame and I suspect the neon lights on the nativity scene were modeled after Vegas.<br /></div><br /><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152749474001542194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisnBCy_joYQdZUm_3afumSiCo2MovyPywnw0MEHCjdhCHRHRfHUkYgMCVt8jqlWeIXBAOkYZZ6jxMffbNBTxOoINTR-Hk_Zmvf41ZoUj9IGE3tT2T8m8kZgY9TjFBPqP5XbjZMJXBfKA_B/s320/CIMG2533.JPG" border="0" /></a></p>We also visited the Hoa Loa prison which lies a few blocks further south of the cathedral. French colonists built the prison 1904 to hold mostly native Vietnamese political prisoners. Later, the Vietnamese used the prison to hold American POWs, including John McCain and James Stockdale, who ironically named it the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanoi_Hilton">Hanoi Hilton</a>. Conditions in the prison at all times seemed at best terrible and it is a stark reminder of the awful things that people are capable of doing. I am neither inclined nor qualified to write anything more.<br /><br /><br /><p>The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Văn_Miếu">Temple of Literature</a> was built in 1070 as a Confucian Temple. Six years later the first National University in Vietnam was formed within the temple to educate members of the Elite. Graduate's names were etched in stone steles that sit on top of turtles.<br /></p><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF7ScqR_d66tY9pHw1QiUguQbJWPSShe_ymHzafC-WU3nH7FvEh4mbLSA-1vjWaGaOQ9YVJL4RNqpNeMELZugJETGKfrp26x4n7y_SHyP_9Y0GEqT1QVwrypdIs0QzVBd4XVelJ_hHkUni/s1600-h/CIMG2547.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152749482591476834" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF7ScqR_d66tY9pHw1QiUguQbJWPSShe_ymHzafC-WU3nH7FvEh4mbLSA-1vjWaGaOQ9YVJL4RNqpNeMELZugJETGKfrp26x4n7y_SHyP_9Y0GEqT1QVwrypdIs0QzVBd4XVelJ_hHkUni/s320/CIMG2547.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><p>The temple features a number of bonsai trees,<br /></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152750178376178818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhldoUEDvauvta-dFrcQTdxyeZodvzQ9Es4Zvy8QMZ_LmEMj3Zb652QqdoRCUqsAFmkY9ABADZ9liPK2oIAoVchMNBbvVED2rWZogZh-91qaWpeiaYnIf7MRd6hRXXKh_GXBBHHP38DHqWq/s320/CIMG2551.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><p>also a few interesting dragons adorning the roofs,<br /></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152750182671146130" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0DiKGEljk_vCk0FeWKVJLKgImYpGb-LueIjdKQVO7ZUVBNtN1B6uejC65EqMuDSwH6-ZBpTdhCYmLaRTENLfshFKE-qwEVJ_uRYGxRBfnKQWNnxo9-aKxJtBhSKKcl30M8LM3dvmDhwHs/s320/CIMG2550.JPG" border="0" /></a></p>prominent reflecting pools,<br /><br /><p><br /></p><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbPf4dDdylU6nK-sVG3hdiucvJSo8eBLUxbr6iV2T1Pz7LyMwHoU10IKQipWK9v1H-4VuS4Q9LpZid6gHXhF-ePGS-763U0GO9Ho7HXwt7z-2e3nedfnI-fQlAa_oxTh4utlIPMmBGnfg-/s1600-h/CIMG2545.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152749478296509522" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbPf4dDdylU6nK-sVG3hdiucvJSo8eBLUxbr6iV2T1Pz7LyMwHoU10IKQipWK9v1H-4VuS4Q9LpZid6gHXhF-ePGS-763U0GO9Ho7HXwt7z-2e3nedfnI-fQlAa_oxTh4utlIPMmBGnfg-/s320/CIMG2545.JPG" border="0" /></a></p>and most importantly a giant drum.<br /><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152347812954987330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbmE2odrXOj_GfM-soLR3kE1KgLnhy46EewQnC0zNu3Q_SBtwtH0zncard2mefxEeT5UTTCzJwu6BcgpidJ1skHBy0S18i6hK_TU36L9AL1KmlR2IeCXR4I6UT23WpXgg4ur6IoILg_M5J/s320/bang+on+the+drum.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><br /><br /><div></div>From Hanoi we headed north to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ha_Long_Bay">Ha Long Bay</a> where we celebrated New Years Eve on a boat. Trying to leave the dock was a bit of an adventure as most boats were triple parked or more and we were far inside. The boats surrounding us wouldn't move to let us leave because they didn't want to lose their spot. When the boats looking for a spot realized that we were leaving they tried to force their way into our space - but we hadn't left yet. After 45 minutes playing bumper boats we cleared the commotion by the docks it was not long before we were completely surrounded by Ha Long Bay's iconic karst islands.<br /><div><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152357433681730450" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJc27rHfMzWefdIOzRmu691VFuxRyp41hPccLJd0Up2AXi_BkAa9QAQmiN5SwJ6svIY5tCy_Fqb5AbfRdl0yeUPdm2y01yc8a_VJxIxu79Q7eluU0I7OmIkDMAKi9mkFm88acsjw6RPqRG/s320/CIMG2670.JPG" border="0" /></a></p>Ha Long Bay is a park and the islands are protected territory - people are not allowed to live on them. Many people have managed to skirt the rules and live in the area in floating villages.<br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152359615525116850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix20Oy8y-FXJVLFojbQEmphvzeAvbu7ekhrBI1ZHICRISPJRECCL1K1qeQOjqXorgm7CVgLxc3WiglrAKcrzJgLn49ZgenpQvwv7-715Z64VBlY7b_W0tyEI7P2eP-QLHLNxC0fH1vhgBh/s320/CIMG2675.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><p>Most of these people make a living as fishermen.</p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152357437976697762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoOFih_ZFb92aAZGGBMGwjkYzPJ3_-y2GWhaAwEwrbmIiKPNLBkNNsDYTVnVnaSlgC0ap01VU93dhVcN55eI-V635WmiNQTs_yHtjzDi-29eJEWarB9WdoGh2Y1ah9VSojo3bFlPHRfufv/s320/CIMG2674.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><p>Some however make a rowing around selling snacks and drinks to the many tourist boats in the area.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152349397797919570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLByIwi7Wsh7GtNkkp4G77AlKny7nv2A7HsQjc-h_kIR5ahuwldsxcCwSDMU2tQR62ZtLjA2oeCP3Ao_FpbBfAxvYjXrmiXGErXDEH8dZos4ObK67Lcp3knFEET-Y3btD3WI71G93RjTHb/s320/CIMG2624.JPG" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152359619820084162" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinKtEx4PGiKI0_UQcoytbvpJxy6QwDsA4BAyVe99bebHPA0RH-4WqS9-KbwUpDjkO0OlvqesMUwts-rAZvgaQjGu-6Xc8VjqHqsPlVNQ4QWtqrPr6UGdxgTJsF9127vPpMFaEU5Ozf1Yek/s320/CIMG2678.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><p>Along the way we stopped in Surprise Cave.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152357412206893922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_kZgga48kHSbu2jqJ5ITnuohQYzM9_gHmYUtv3fDlurcdCUfPEPMsQP-aUURrTFBenz5HDlexfG_p8QIfArdxLejzjyR788r0jN3c82yElt_2lelNf5z8qOpfv0u8GBZ_WkxJm43wiCd9/s320/CIMG2608.JPG" border="0" /></a></p>and stopped for a photo-op.<br /><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152359628410018786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc2podsAO9_5p_oxvsKVkQk7rZPGzhpxzYnJAM89NNsWO3-MM-2dcC8svZTJnxt6fz3d0x2cmeHHObaMp88cStQb-NdZh6kCh6Bjw-_sLIZ9x8Rn_f5tH7s_9rtryRy4CkrUscTnnkN5Zt/s320/CIMG2685.JPG" border="0" /></a></p>Went kayaking.<br /><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152357416501861234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQZjmtZ3v79LHvt-TEKC2QnSrlC_UsRJn0C8DvaahoBvg8oKtMoVD03HqaR71wvbhwZCdXNTU9TnDR29HhsRhNm6nrYroe91XuvnJHAECHSYhfW_5EMYsQg3erJp0P-1hj-5hNxVleTEML/s320/CIMG2632.JPG" border="0" /></a></p></div><br /><br /><br /><div>And jumped off the boat - even though it was a little cold.<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TlBHGBNRzpM" width="425" height="350" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed><br /></div><br /><br /><div>We passed the evening by playing cards and celebrating New Years in every time zone leading up to ours - we even continued this the next day for New Years in the western hemisphere. A few calls from family and loved ones were very welcome. The weather was crummy the first day but cleared up for a beautiful sunrise on the second.<br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152357416501861250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUHfI7sUnW77h78OBjYWt7QZ1GWhgHPSPH8r0Z3IslmWs0LKGpNieeJS5HwsknmI-n_3C_DbkErkSXK9f7poPuK0wenMnLOTewpf9TtyA_rvT8k4V4ppZ32C0gcvVrS4ul0zyQOkaKbEKI/s320/CIMG2651.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><p></p><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152359624115051474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgENh0XeAHmwNN-GJvYvlktS6erx8VhORKQciXX7GEVdLbaSBMJ2M2laWnl5zxxUR_9Z0QKMzO20XeV1ZVVyocGDxtrxcPoSfIHVfuYPtCMFO4MF11JUxh_Cmdta1GkMrQy7zq0rTtL5Sqb/s320/CIMG2677.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br />We stopped in Hanoi just long enough to book train tickets to the beach town of Nha Trang. We were lucky enough to get the last two sleeper bunks on an overnight train leaving the next afternoon. A few days on the beach and in a boat were a great break from the rigorous sightseeing we've been doing.<br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152359632704986098" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpr-NyEDavZrxiEdJi2yAqDSnseb3ENXT6C1plJiMBjJFTgeRYpaC0_RkyMJ9zYS4TjYaNrkHkpP2MzvqwK8WIyLroR6IasauhzNSrCTLlsXCaMgl8yfh8j9Q3UOxCZyYAjcMwbSATtzx8/s320/CIMG2736.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br />We caught an overnight, sleeper bus from Nha Trang north to Hoi An, a town known for its Old Town area but, more importantly, its tailors.<br /><br /><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoi_An">Hoi An</a><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihUA01DQ9G6Yw4cy1DegPz90KQI5x8aBCrGKOWoQvGR7_07CySwiENeTGDTusXDQIipaEtfb6C1F6TofQ3F5SBkj_zOe1zy0u-85ad1V3jR8jTy45XII2yOM4Xm7iFvC0v3a0PxGAECeU_/s1600-h/CIMG2753.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152360680677006338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihUA01DQ9G6Yw4cy1DegPz90KQI5x8aBCrGKOWoQvGR7_07CySwiENeTGDTusXDQIipaEtfb6C1F6TofQ3F5SBkj_zOe1zy0u-85ad1V3jR8jTy45XII2yOM4Xm7iFvC0v3a0PxGAECeU_/s320/CIMG2753.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br />As home to one of the largest harbors in Southeast Asia, Hoi An was a prominent trading town in the 16th and 17th centuries. As a result, some of the buildings preserved in the Old Town area have a distinctly European feel. This street(pictured below)in Old Town is home to a number lantern makers. <br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152360684971973650" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhotBB_gv3u3Cb3pzKRtTDBAx55slI2YllV2_3Md04dY5MtzTDBb79SpuukXPGRT5OLwxvcJgrr_WSn6WWdsw3COFIzhdqVsvy4g4QU2-yQwQFlYnWqIsopWCBtKiKPoVtnFOJ8w_B5ajZ8/s320/CIMG2767.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br />We couldn't spend a few days in Hoi An without visiting My Son, a Hindu temple built in the 4th century. <br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-jfYcb4kWgXbwUf3SkcUZrSA7DCP5-lotqw24XRKzOgAG3W6U-RNEpw49tWh9iKtutxnknvahWJqejWRuCcgrRueWBfDm6Zt2SEvtFk7fnpeaRr4ZKd_y2tIh6H4bbTCuZgI-trrn68D8/s1600-h/CIMG2795.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152978146650315954" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-jfYcb4kWgXbwUf3SkcUZrSA7DCP5-lotqw24XRKzOgAG3W6U-RNEpw49tWh9iKtutxnknvahWJqejWRuCcgrRueWBfDm6Zt2SEvtFk7fnpeaRr4ZKd_y2tIh6H4bbTCuZgI-trrn68D8/s320/CIMG2795.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />The site, now in ruins, was where the Champa dynasty held religious ceremonies and also served as a burial ground for royalty and national heros.<br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCNGFeAin6iK6z7d-JmZZ3n4cCWtE8mKsDcsFCQQufrFca9A9JLuPNoaA7Z7vgZ6_MzO1oNp5HoX_Z11XFI3gF8xZutU5TKAnPSEhP8-h6Ogq58ubpf5uotrRCetbQJgoHzVcr2Tw8pl5b/s1600-h/CIMG2802.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152978150945283266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCNGFeAin6iK6z7d-JmZZ3n4cCWtE8mKsDcsFCQQufrFca9A9JLuPNoaA7Z7vgZ6_MzO1oNp5HoX_Z11XFI3gF8xZutU5TKAnPSEhP8-h6Ogq58ubpf5uotrRCetbQJgoHzVcr2Tw8pl5b/s320/CIMG2802.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We spent a few hours wandering around the complex admiring the intricate details that have somehow survived 1,600 years in the middle of a very humid jungle.<br /><br /><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/My_Son">My Son</a><br /><br /><p><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd4UrpmcTtiP9BBcjoN4cHJKMhjCBxSAq0yNxhWTc6v2EyYe3BRzdq8M9z3bBzSI2Fwtgmtkiby2d1Da-h-8pRq9-XTmMWkVjHZFwrtRVA0yPS0VcHhUwLtnDBk-7-U9z5hGf8h4TwSLXn/s1600-h/CIMG2784.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152978142355348642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd4UrpmcTtiP9BBcjoN4cHJKMhjCBxSAq0yNxhWTc6v2EyYe3BRzdq8M9z3bBzSI2Fwtgmtkiby2d1Da-h-8pRq9-XTmMWkVjHZFwrtRVA0yPS0VcHhUwLtnDBk-7-U9z5hGf8h4TwSLXn/s320/CIMG2784.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><br /><br />On the boat ride home we passed a couple fishing. This two man operation was typical of the fishermen we had seen in Nha Trang and Halong Bay - one person steers and the other casts a net over and over again, all day, every day. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s1600-h/CIMG2815.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5152978150945283282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: pointer; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVk_94as1keMh6ruMzSFHx07t4m0nRuWLFDuaaiQu9IfasLfb0wXSgKX1WSdVe0Dobt-NLgMFy0r4dZDFuSOc0gYs_FpbvfZfy00UwE332uPGY-PqUrl0YJOo1qblQ_W5wre851p2kDvW/s320/CIMG2815.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We spent our last day in Hoi An filling up on baguette sandwiches, making some last minute alterations to our new clothes and perusing the local market for souvenirs. We took a somewhat perilous cab ride early the next morning to the Da Nang Airport where we left for Cambodia.<br /><br /><div></div></div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-72144581174386236632007-12-30T12:41:00.000-05:002007-12-30T13:21:44.637-05:00Final thoughts on ChinaJasmine tea is everywhere - many Chinese walk around with a few tea leaves in small Thermoses. When they finish the tea, they refill the bottle from hot water dispensers are in almost any room and drink another cup.<br /><br />Waiting in line is practically unheard of - its a cultural thing. The idea of waiting behind someone else for anything when you could just walk around to the front is completely foreign to many Chinese. This results in a lot of chaos and elbows at train stations, tourist attractions and anywhere else a line might form. It's a bit strange at first but eventually you get used to being practically bowled over by little old ladies in the grocery store.<br /><br />Despite efforts to crack down on spitting in the wake of the SARS outbreak and in the run up to the Olympics, its still happens all the time and everywhere. One of my bunkmates on a train ride casually spit on the floor of our common area without looking - I took my shoes to bed with me that night.<br /><br />Chinese babies rarely wear diapers. Most baby pants have a slit down the back side and mothers simply open this up when their children need to go to the bathroom. This happens everywhere, in the streets, on the sidewalk, or even in a bus. Its a disgusting practice but the Chinese, for the most, part accept or ignore it.<br /><br />Far from being a taboo conversation topic, diarrhea is openly discussed even with complete strangers. I've found using it as an excuse is a great way to get rid of unwanted salesmen even when I'm feeling fine.<br /><br />Finally, not many people in China speak English - since I can't speak Chinese I played a lot of impromptu games of charades. I only mention this to note that most of the Chinese people I encountered were very friendly, helpful, and willing to work to get through the language barrier.Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-71506888715996949062007-12-30T07:47:00.000-05:002007-12-30T12:40:14.924-05:00Hong Kong<div>Our time in Hong Kong was divided into two distinct sections, a few leisurely days up to and including Christmas and a few hurried days afterwards trying to see everything. This was, no doubt, not the correct way to see Hong Kong but how could you expect us to leave an apartment with a view like this. (Thank you John and Carol!)<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149749422165416690" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMddHeNR68jsY6nntobNh123-S41AGP2-9TQsMDQAtDp5eS1XX31nyNw82zQH8efVlSa6593027kXXGF3B9-qyoMqn487n7q7vRbn9s_u7P9evDga07PxVEmlJnBhsrmM5phKOIwNQ248w/s320/CIMG2485.jpg" border="0" /><br />Our first day, though it didn't start until almost the evening, we took a Star Line ferry across the harbour from Central Hong Kong to Kowloon where we saw Nathan Road, Temple Street Night Market, and a stunning view of the city skyline. Nathan Road is ba famous shopping street like almost any other in big cities, it is filled with neon lights, high end stores, and shoppers. The road was closed, however, as it was Christmas eve so festive locals, people buying last minute Christmas gifts, and more tourists than you could count packed the street. A few blocks away we found the less crowded but far more interesting Temple Street Night Market. This monument to intellectual property piracy stretches on for nearly a kilometer through back alleys with vendors selling anything you could imagine except food and weapons. We picked up a cheap binoculars that we hope will survive until Africa.<br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149747682703661714" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH4lzOSu1o512Uh2TFMjZmIkui80_F-Zw63fDUOnd_1k9dJhgf-ctFjXPvCRs5cIxuT1smRcJ35osT4pzE1mMLdUXv2_KHxQ-7KefpEkQgPD4yz9S8X_Pvthg7SAK3qPiMNWmzZ4eXU57b/s320/CIMG2415.jpg" border="0" /><br />Before heading home we stopped by the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avenue_of_Stars,_Hong_Kong">Avenue of the Stars</a> which is, in short, a sidewalk built into Victoria Harbour. The view of the Hong Kong skyline from here is legendary at any time of the year but even more spectacular around Christmas. Many buildings leave their interior lights on at night and some even decorate the outside with festive lights and messages. The result is an astounding cityscape.<br /><br /></div> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149747686998629026" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDWUu6kNmttEO9sNHLWDIypC43kVfGDZt_VnNXe2irVk2yMnfskBxxgpSTRhyphenhyphenHWaxL0oZ5qsOX85zD5mF77bZ2bsKf13rpq2wXsEvXCF28KFI2WBS3OLHimb97S8fOZBe_MjFYfiyLAxNl/s320/CIMG2427.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div>We spent Christmas day lounging around the apartment, talking to family and loved ones, and enjoying a few very welcome care packages from home. We spent the evening wandering around Old Town and <span style="text-decoration: underline;"></span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lan_Kwai_Fong">Lan Kwai Fong</a> (pictured below). Despite its name, Old Town didn't seem very old - there was no interesting architecture, cultural relics or religious sites as you might expect. We did, however, find a few bustling back alleys and shops selling dried food notably lizard, octopus, and squid. Lan Kwai Fong is a small, one block area known for its nightlife - on Christmas day though it is teeming with expats who were unable to get home for the holidays. We spent a few hours making friends and celebrating with festive wassailers.<br /></div><br /><div> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149747695588563634" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvDAw63UuGTjdu53rccc54SctbTPnZaHopfFoKOwUsbd8IclSmJkYMqchJfHJBzsdibNjyyI0khV9rG6w7FbkMbo7ngq3NLhfB58gSTQWSE7d45fBbG21AkRCWzrO8-yhpoK0jKolC73Gr/s320/CIMG2439.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div>The next day we visited <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victoria_peak">Victoria Peak</a> and took a ferry out to Lamma Island for dinner. In colonial times important British families lived on top of Victoria peak and rode <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palanquin">sedan chairs</a> to and from work down in the city. Today wealthy people still live on Victoria peak but thousands of visitors are carried up every day in the ultratouristy <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peak_Tram">Peak Tram</a>. The view from Victoria Peak:<br /></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149747704178498242" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSZq2YvLRunwA5uFtP4wR_ad7ztUyhvKYEO2Z18cAOQ-cXV82d0fXhuPF8WwY7suFPiEqDiwv51_zwyLDLCjbVqDNpkbIfAcWvCjhJAMb6bL1b5Zq-MMwvHZ58ACIZz-guoJbFiUJ_fJ9T/s320/CIMG2451.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div>Later that day we took a 20 minute ferry ride out to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lamma_Island">Lamma Island</a> located south west of Hong Kong Island. Buildings higher than three storeys and automobiles are prohibited on the island and the laid back atmosphere belies it's proximity to the city.<br /></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149749404985547474" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Al_01z38cp-v7BbHhodSH9AUDCIKd7vNaImRpFKQc-YYl3mywXYM_8Wc_hh3H1rrkVYqkUN6dIRl_iW6xH6bByyusTPlmTyZDuGKuW5Gy0HiS-wMpJ6NyxfCKmoDuPbW1uQxpIwkWOig/s320/CIMG2472.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div>The myriad seaside restaurants will let you literally pick your meal of choice out of a tank. I was not brave enough to try the Geoduck, a shellfish that looks like a bloated clam with a tail. If you click on the following picture you can see the geoducks in the centre of the middle row.<br /></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149749413575482082" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZRon3Wpdhxq44t34zu0UPgHE95wUXuiF34ZTX7Fyi8sA13BSQ1dxNe-9D_0nrk5hWmZNYpynkTyHOwyt0lXwRYdMcawPgph32g3jTSakQXiTQ81F6yg8ZAmNKUWfpr9ydDT60nh8gWnOn/s320/CIMG2477.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div>We took a quick trip to <span style="text-decoration: underline;"></span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macau">Macau</a> and caught tea at The Peninsula hotel on our last day in Hong Kong. By the time we bought ferry tickets, travelled to Macau and cleared customs, we only had about an hour and a half to explore the former Portuguese colony. Our first stop, on the run, was the iconic ruins of the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruins_of_Saint_Paul%27s_Cathedral">Cathedral of Saint Paul</a>. The cathedral was built in the early 1600s by Jesuits and Japanese Christians in exile, today all that remains is the facade.<br /></div><br /><div> </div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149749435050318594" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ZfHUvwi1d_7lO0tVflZo7FP0uwZj3GlcHvw-L2117HRp_JN-pjuEV7XxSNZTvTI9qZPnQj64uW6dLWlEWlkP_k3d3IdAJR9NFMSq8IxwwSj7TqDokcFbrL51TRrwBWClM-HSHiUnofta/s320/CIMG2491.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div>From the cathedral we ran to the old town center <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Senado_Square">Largo do Senado</a>. The town square, which is actually shaped like a triangle, is notable for its black and white mosaic street and brightly colored, stucco buildings. The area has a European / Mediterranean feel and if it weren't for all the Chinese writing and people, you might forget you were in Asia.<br /></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149749439345285906" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhlkdV38rJogbvXsq0INkM7fYbZXf2naX5oYiFNKyxnMKOWHWQ78KVhVg-xjymdsafSFf1eXo4s597SqP7mFDPp9Ix4q60WSQtlB-vuiFnv0Gu59XNMjUJLbboalND28voqG2RwE7ROSWQ/s320/CIMG2502.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div>As it is the only spot in China that allows gambling, no stop in Macau would be complete without stopping by a Casino. Since we didn't have a lot of time, we decided to skip the modern, western styled Venetian, MGM Grand and Wynn casinos in favor of the homegrown, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casino_Lisboa%2C_Macau">Casino Lisboa</a>. Although it's been recently remodeled to keep up with the competition, Casnio Lisboa with its small rooms and charmingly garish lights looks nothing like a Vegas casino. Although you may have never heard of it, in 2006 gambling revenues from Macau's casinos surpassed those from casinos on the Vegas strip - watch out!<br /></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149750070705478434" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4vaVJN5H5AZilEkhzJTrmabHQ7dfLlIpfvFSDSDbiTrZ3cPgpj-glJKDgX1CF7CVXsuct0ByKr-ll7wo5UHwTHIUrZhTFF1wJfBn-JGqTKzEpeofKiVwCSkcp8mAU3okLIQgnXWe21Qri/s320/CIMG2509.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div>After our whirlwind tour through Macau we had to rush back to Kowloon for tea at the Peninsula Hotel. A proper English tea service was a welcome break from not truly knowing what I've been eating for the past two months.<br /></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk3bITUVxRROqMNT3TiG6niqg-5VgUunqaWSIlEJocj9C4yi_vAZYvbvIvRBQNzK5TDWXYLHIJID9QizxWLxUlhPN0wuTZPsW2d7zvJTPQDFTcRwbVKqAkiPTVHhTZUmN2WEW6ig3aqMk-/s1600-h/CIMG2523.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5149750079295413042" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk3bITUVxRROqMNT3TiG6niqg-5VgUunqaWSIlEJocj9C4yi_vAZYvbvIvRBQNzK5TDWXYLHIJID9QizxWLxUlhPN0wuTZPsW2d7zvJTPQDFTcRwbVKqAkiPTVHhTZUmN2WEW6ig3aqMk-/s320/CIMG2523.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Please excuse, again, a hastily written post.<br /><br /><div></div></div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-72706012166002464022007-12-27T19:47:00.000-05:002007-12-29T11:00:25.273-05:00Shanghai<div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148822224625556066" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKcBZKnAdzZPaReJh4yqlak-1B75OxIp8I0aNrXFZWKik8Rs294pQ_Dm8CcdoD2VOgyHkq7KAG0mXmpy0rOEIUxCuNbkc_TpSnyp55Vlm91wa-tUd1kBe0I26RkTv9K9Gbf95H_fV9LyAm/s320/CIMG2391.JPG" border="0" /><br />Our first stop in Shanghai was Nanjing Road, a very famous shopping street. Often called the Fifth Avenue of Asia, Nanjing Road is divided into two sections, East and West. The East section, pictured above and below, is covered in neon lights and filled with mid to high end stores (and street salesmen selling low quality Chinese toys). The West end is closer to the financial district, has more open space, and is filled, almost exclusively, with luxury brand and high end stores.</div><div></div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKcBZKnAdzZPaReJh4yqlak-1B75OxIp8I0aNrXFZWKik8Rs294pQ_Dm8CcdoD2VOgyHkq7KAG0mXmpy0rOEIUxCuNbkc_TpSnyp55Vlm91wa-tUd1kBe0I26RkTv9K9Gbf95H_fV9LyAm/s1600-h/CIMG2391.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148820592537983570" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH1WOjmwrrvYMfDXwGbbHjPeRfWI0cqoAw2Hr2YFR32Yd74sGk8ObVrNSUMFSBpQXgapZZbW_8Y86ffKKenaI7zwBgJziOQaysNjFbXV2yHffE_Zm_mVunaTcGOVxWY23DJL9Iwaaj913U/s320/CIMG2384.JPG" border="0" /></a> </div><br /><br /><div>We also visited the Bund, another very famous section of Shanghai, located on the western bank of the Hangpu river. This area quickly became the main banking and trade hub in Asia following the opium wars in the mid 1800s.</div><br /><div><br /></div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148820571063147026" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEnoEiQtjuynp0Kp0wLJql7kkb6F3DH2wADaxynvXAWP4WcbYLcDfeXCCfQXhy_sSeF50airh5GSwqWvr9gC2hsOgJB-M9WAtAgtra2cpUEP-SZptKGfmldkj5uwYbDdHV9CYOC_UuRjto/s320/CIMG2344.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><br /><div>The bankers built large stone office buildings to rival their counterparts in Europe. Of particurlar note are the mosaic ceilings in the old <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HSBC_Building,_Shanghai">HSBC building </a>, once called the most luxurious building between the Suez Canal and Bering Strait. Unfortunately pictures were not allowed inside so you'll have to check out the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HSBC_Building,_Shanghai">link to Wikipedia</a>.<br /></div><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148820575358114338" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXncrg9JCDz6CT5ASySUQt3MZWwIZW9zUEaj3wjQd4w-RQ82wQ07cE7U7CiDVo41Lyepz-Z8cvWCES07PpUF-XkxbXuflAmwyXt9vLElquGQ4abKi_pU9QN2jVfI7_y6FCE9XoGKjyr405/s320/CIMG2347.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><br /><div>Today the Bund is still home to banks but also fancy restaurants and high end retail stores. This is still one of the most sought after and prized addresses in Shanghai.</div><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148820583948048946" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdl30SDsyaoyBQ2HYe-Y8HHApDLVlXHq5NMmElZTjEb13fU7wYkMsq8GcrqmyOxA2qA3jhl-o-26WAWNqu7mp3VSIuUyHECXdgoUD6UTB54-6d-0XInUkvqKe5cw4fjWypdhhXFnDZZ-Ou/s320/CIMG2351.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><br /><div>Later in the week we visited Old Town and Yuyuan Gardens (pictured below). The pagoda style buildings were a nice nod to tradition but unfortunately everything had the shiny new feel of an area remodeled for tourists. Even in Old Town there was a Starbucks and a McDonalds. Fortunately Yuyuan gardens was a relaxing break from the hustle and bustle of the city. We had a great afternoon exploring passageways and finding different serene ponds, temples, and rock formations every time we turned around. </div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div> </div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148822233215490674" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBmxFlM45T0CrImlLAiaS1ZuzvpSXNdMm9N4gu-7pZl1_ud_9PpHcR4QANJPk_dpbh4nkiJR3iUYUmSqgATlyqJDMu1RZZhwSQT3VlUwaplRr79nkfo2IJvM7YmfO6wKIlIXkmVaW0eFE4/s320/CIMG2395.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><div> </div><br /><div>According to everyone we talked to, a stop in the Shanghai Museum was necessary. We found great permanent exhibits of ancient ceramics, bronzes, and currency. The pot pictured below is more than 6,000 years old.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgloWrxqG-oQfrFYuy50q8j_1AVl9mGDh5QH7XPxx2iFage9MpnahSfRLs5GlKH_BlcIxbwpZO191pRcf10EYbDcdsMEwzjyqOQYZR48leJEQbk1QE9g92Tc7Yuxcodjuzzmyzi0nmh6Pxq/s1600-h/CIMG2374.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5148820588243016258" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgloWrxqG-oQfrFYuy50q8j_1AVl9mGDh5QH7XPxx2iFage9MpnahSfRLs5GlKH_BlcIxbwpZO191pRcf10EYbDcdsMEwzjyqOQYZR48leJEQbk1QE9g92Tc7Yuxcodjuzzmyzi0nmh6Pxq/s320/CIMG2374.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />No visit to Shanghai would be complete without a stop in the French Concession and Xingtiandi. This area is filled mostly with trendy, new bars and restaurants but punctuated with buildings leftover from the Open Door era. Its a great place to wander around in the day time or go out to at night.<br /><br /></div>Finally, it was great to run into some old friends (Howie and Haimu) and make some new ones when in Shanghai. Thank you to Sharon and Steve for including Ellie and I in your Christmas dinner!<br /><br />Please excuse the hastily written post - I'm about 2 weeks behind on the blog and need to catch up.<br /><br /><div></div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-21116740578382136532007-12-23T07:13:00.000-05:002007-12-25T19:32:56.534-05:00Xian, China - Terra Cotta WarriorsWe arrived in Xi'an and, like many other people there, had one thing on our mind - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terra_Cotta_Warriors">the Terra Cotta warriors</a>. We visited the army on the first day and unfortunately, after that, nothing else in Xi'an could compare.<br /><div></div><br /><div>The story, in short, is that when Emperor Qin died in 209 BC he was buried in an extremely elaborate mausoleum (as of yet unearthed because it contains Indiana Jones like defences) and accompanied 8,099 life sized soldier and horse statues.</div><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5147143309024647570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJN2yS98C7h8rtMnLYMWYOBSROVZTPuGosGKDPysuxS-61ki89ljmSlirN_BYNZgcXjQF7bPiTOQYSZtgI0PTcXwnkcCjwMTztCYXF-DFSxE_3ySnPlAWBeVXFAN4Bb99xpSg49lg24Iay/s320/CIMG2238.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p>At present only about 1,000 of the are uncovered, the rest remain buried until they can be excavated and reconstructed.</p><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5147143313319614882" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihU87VGLDhrS_b8Q1ZEzOfZcz8FYaYgMTo5C-FuaQTpC57iaDMLObTpcgwu6pyzYeOarysrT0aqJUSyp30RigO9JlS1AeeED9a3eRs5V8K5uIi4S1JZ1G9EbUntIgfaqFKNRGwxcuUuSGs/s320/CIMG2257.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p>Each terra cotta warrior is unique in height, weight and facial features. Some of the original color lacquer finish is just barely visible in the previous and next photo. They are arranged in order of height and rank.</p><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5147143313319614898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu4U2cp7YqkyyUVjjYbyDph39OrLw1t4l9a2V-7T2OBKviHD5DVNtv1C4SfuCmIyUW2DLDX-qGolJzDXtCGzmEucPkqven5mYGXM-7E6k2spvwZFyh6k7QUTlmI4omrPlnX60NdVGGclb2/s320/CIMG2263.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p>Five years after Emperor Qin's death General Xiang Yu, worried that the Emperor would return commanding a formidable terra cotta army, ordered the statues be destroyed and their weapons removed. Xiang Yu was particularly concerned about the highest ranking terra cotta warriors and his men, set on destruction, acted accordingly. Note that after multiple attempts at restoration and reconstruction, all of the Generals in the terra cotta command post (separate pit, following picture) are still missing their heads.</p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5147824155830344194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbLwTpNb907TTDyvKglXDT5uZsMPExXktEX7vWIP_7TWs2tHbzE7MhJltKdJilbMdGpPV5lZk-WIP7vdemm10K1RkEdrvlcUQlccSjF0MLGujdPADF8Z0G-8iYKh-F4rUbJBnPoRP5Nni_/s320/CIMG2272.JPG" border="0" /><br /><p></p>These horses and accompanying carriage were found separately from the other terra cotta warriors, closer to Emperor Qin's mausoleum.<br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5147143304729680258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBUha_foED0W3zJ9Do76Nw1KqrjldpVqytmN8ZkXLMF-8qySC3TW_TIXWL39eevyjAUpUKrGFr21eTlKq0yrgNDy9Jqpo4lVqH8buysdUUt5E0NqKMPtCpSPGu692ge192dq9TnlMlWn3B/s320/CIMG2235.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p>Of course, we did see a few other sites in Xi'an, notably the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/City_wall_of_Xi%27an">city wall.</a> Constructed in the 1300s AD, this 12km long wall is one of the best preserved city walls in China. We saw parts of two sides, one corner and got about 1/4 of the way around before deciding that we had a pretty good idea what the rest of the wall looked like. The haze in the following picture is smog, not fog.</p><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5147143626852227538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Bv8ieyHOBz_gPee4_c9uDZ5Dx5suWQgUg941x9s93BiKK4UJdaCWXbC6VdLLD7CXccb6FAWSYEamNQxm4mcAIiIbsj00sdQDL5KOW0M-UPUP_kWypnOC3WkmUGmbRwpUg7eHs6-iJsup/s320/CIMG2330.JPG" border="0" /></p><br /><p>We also visited the Big Goose Pagoda - Xi'an's other iconic landmark. This seven tired structure (bottom two tiers are obscured by the temple) was built more than 1,300 years ago to hold Buddhist sutras.</p><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5147143631147194850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwhNyls3mckA6c-h-2xIQVoKQ1rsnfiLbNiQgrFGWM26scBNUr-JNeeQ8rqpxjNTwPKwb0E-U4thNmea_O6-hYK-BgsJ3GZiQYHfXc1j_Mw2c8yWRJEeIcqdbzhlBBOafkjDA-Jlqkpghl/s320/CIMG2313.JPG" border="0" /> </p><br /><p>The Bell Tower is located in the center of town is used as the starting point for all directions. Like many of the other buildings in town, its well lit at night. Its counterpart, the Drum Tower, is also a local landmark but the surroundings are not as interesting. Both towers are used, surprise, for drum and bell performances.<br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQ3TeCxFV2eQXtTNDxrFWhn4TdiSAo-uRuNi_ijHXEY8JqP11OlDd0qOsGEada6XcNya2x6ZKW09trbfAkEJFwkLGUeenF3TFCSqHyjqj1ktXf6IAPNhUVL7B9s8xH7aVodnxYZd8JEGR/s1600-h/CIMG2294.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5147143631147194866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQ3TeCxFV2eQXtTNDxrFWhn4TdiSAo-uRuNi_ijHXEY8JqP11OlDd0qOsGEada6XcNya2x6ZKW09trbfAkEJFwkLGUeenF3TFCSqHyjqj1ktXf6IAPNhUVL7B9s8xH7aVodnxYZd8JEGR/s320/CIMG2294.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Finally: Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!</p><br /><p><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5147143300434712946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgit6bp5IRZqsDF4dDCZJ19UhOhN2XK1aYT5hrCzhJd1o2vMFcUObuB9lATj-1T6utCjJo-flYnTgUCfM8cmsl8qW-LRrWWZjK-oEO0YBR21qQhYbcTJB0c_aRT_23LvCFv66Qg7rmcwWsr/s320/CIMG2223.JPG" border="0" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p><br /><div></div>Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8607023283669093056.post-47049013417475206322007-12-18T00:30:00.001-05:002007-12-18T00:30:57.461-05:00Chengdu: Giant Pandas Giant Buddhas<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYG5aUZVdTqnkgLwbBQ9lbHt4IKww4RAI-oSUNGdGYklVc0CKc53_PClOZ9CcwRQTfSMukvzax89aKGGAphvL1D-nCTTHbTlCOHc_9_hXh2Ou-EYKQhViQJuTOcv90WlLcvYttm8Tj7vMu/s1600-h/CIMG2035-757463.JPG"><img 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src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl56PHvUvQ-W2boiMbbDVo4F62BgYKN_TAhZb_Zd6KPslXHQtL8rVF71BbNdctRhLOF5Z6d5V_4cezzHPaH5he1-MJ7nuPtJAE01BtgmZEVERTYl8tGLFv8qHTC-RuIQiBl5QttCjBblj1/s320/CIMG2103-764317.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145181260589652162" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiQB7KTRTEbq_5KhoUpFNFOx1H7tvs9OzY2TYMUPJhTw1pEBdrfjVbJt4HHdRyRDZoO9fE_QgCJO9LjeQErUcJoEq_go3if1ty6uwxGkxkj1wVSIPLLICb6-dMhBqvePVLfEkIj2uFzyjy/s1600-h/CIMG2110-765083.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiQB7KTRTEbq_5KhoUpFNFOx1H7tvs9OzY2TYMUPJhTw1pEBdrfjVbJt4HHdRyRDZoO9fE_QgCJO9LjeQErUcJoEq_go3if1ty6uwxGkxkj1wVSIPLLICb6-dMhBqvePVLfEkIj2uFzyjy/s320/CIMG2110-765083.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145181264884619474" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a 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src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSakAthMaYlEbOCwbvPX16Bi8XelQdqj17KF6I8MKN_vT6FsXcPokiljixjGtr_6ohNvG7X-7NTraUZiSNphJUIB6KTbZpr2YCxtOMN8xUIYQsIYsj8RD3NDZxYypYNnK3L-6lK8Ihn5Ge/s320/CIMG2121-766830.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145181273474554098" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipO3_LmdlLF7sy9_OcgfCnwL00b9fuiH5TyrNA_oL_QqzSIBy1j2MTwqUmAuaJP7_PIW8NNPMXVrU-CQG83wVILGL6ONuxzNBRabHcO9WA-ohp6JGfoPc6Bte1sD0MH9jxBSvWUCvcPH1v/s1600-h/CIMG2130-767679.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipO3_LmdlLF7sy9_OcgfCnwL00b9fuiH5TyrNA_oL_QqzSIBy1j2MTwqUmAuaJP7_PIW8NNPMXVrU-CQG83wVILGL6ONuxzNBRabHcO9WA-ohp6JGfoPc6Bte1sD0MH9jxBSvWUCvcPH1v/s320/CIMG2130-767679.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145181277769521410" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhChOAWnK0scrJ2nmzLBo9RimlLKFp2Pc81HqdU23ZlH3pZH6omCoi99YfWFcBj6xTlnt9weyAPpv2rb-sn7BsnBCwLJPN4waKGx_vG9UE5IPmkYJMyFj9Ut1cEV9ArA5MwyUHXK-IWh6jZ/s1600-h/CIMG2132-768344.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhChOAWnK0scrJ2nmzLBo9RimlLKFp2Pc81HqdU23ZlH3pZH6omCoi99YfWFcBj6xTlnt9weyAPpv2rb-sn7BsnBCwLJPN4waKGx_vG9UE5IPmkYJMyFj9Ut1cEV9ArA5MwyUHXK-IWh6jZ/s320/CIMG2132-768344.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145181277769521426" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD9wGr3pjTnfUzSToQtCwMFZvYlcxSSMqJTMFwIfyQipbdOTRnU3HBUVF2pjdVhr4dbfX9FCvrqBn8qf_yhyiTSNNzMYWBimcv2w3G-H_pmtxPl5Nj0GnBuLsj3YezFjOtpIXT7ELapd2V/s1600-h/CIMG2158-769001.JPG"><img 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href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijZeYQ0TeQYfcSaGzmdOxsaJy_UhmvHU6BskXXQ1r0TBPBoHHHO8Oo2brLceWlHy08B24u4iJRoEi1Pe0sTrUMcEpbJvWFpdxeXF7cQ_uJLeLrZztRdRiyCjFPzmZa3Qr2-eW9hYItp1wE/s1600-h/CIMG2176-771330.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijZeYQ0TeQYfcSaGzmdOxsaJy_UhmvHU6BskXXQ1r0TBPBoHHHO8Oo2brLceWlHy08B24u4iJRoEi1Pe0sTrUMcEpbJvWFpdxeXF7cQ_uJLeLrZztRdRiyCjFPzmZa3Qr2-eW9hYItp1wE/s320/CIMG2176-771330.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145181290654423362" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5-PU4pf4YgHHamVc-2VAJMOzGaQqKRx-kirfEHDZ9jJbohrCSbfMbPl50SrqE-7vJw4N9rC_rT05lKgURTZXiGdGAu_CPpWvmE0UGnqVOJnhhQ0cgSF7tKBi3mntaHnlZjV7kHT3TBNI/s1600-h/CIMG2217-772108.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5-PU4pf4YgHHamVc-2VAJMOzGaQqKRx-kirfEHDZ9jJbohrCSbfMbPl50SrqE-7vJw4N9rC_rT05lKgURTZXiGdGAu_CPpWvmE0UGnqVOJnhhQ0cgSF7tKBi3mntaHnlZjV7kHT3TBNI/s320/CIMG2217-772108.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145181294949390674" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZWAJSDpvRQ129f4osxBXtZoXDFiqytq5p1MJCVwBjCdJiEUuUbHzwK_7qaH5c6AZ7acFM8TnBpqRyQ6VZ7ZeBx9ksUow_gIvJ8DKMGNuTKfYWA7ZnqASO89OkMMN5B8bmGcaFP6x6WR2R/s1600-h/CIMG2218-772831.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZWAJSDpvRQ129f4osxBXtZoXDFiqytq5p1MJCVwBjCdJiEUuUbHzwK_7qaH5c6AZ7acFM8TnBpqRyQ6VZ7ZeBx9ksUow_gIvJ8DKMGNuTKfYWA7ZnqASO89OkMMN5B8bmGcaFP6x6WR2R/s320/CIMG2218-772831.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145181299244357986" /></a></p>We left Kathmandu and were very excited to be heading back to China. On the plane ride, we somehow managed to meet John, a friend of our friend Tom in Beijing - small world. His help with translation and knowledge of the area were indispensable to our experience in Chengdu. <br><br>Chengdu, with a metropolitan population of more than 14 million people, is like a number of other mega cities in China - completely unknown to most people in the west. As the capital of the Sichuan province however it holds a claim on all of the area's Pandas and the eponymous variety of spicy food. Chengdu is a contradiction though, there is a dichotomy between old and new. In the public parks, people sit around in tea houses playing Mah Jong, chatting, singing and, most importantly, drinking tea for hours. In other parts of the park, people play instruments, sing and exercise . In the city center though, there are colorful fountains and shining, new luxury brand stores like Ferragamo, Dior, and Louis Vuitton. The people run the gamut between young, affluent trend setters and sociable elderly. The city is definitely more relaxed and running at a slower pace than Beijing. <br><br>Our first night in Chengdu we went out for a local specialty, a hot pot dinner. This dish is somewhat like a Chinese take on oil fondue - you order a broth, meats, and vegetables then dump all the food in the broth, let it cook and enjoy. Featured prominently in our dish, like many Sichuanese dishes, were Xanthoxylon peppers. These caper sized fireballs come on a vine, in clumps like grapes and are so strong they make your mouth go numb. The sensation is somewhat like a mild anesthetic with a dash of Tabasco sauce. I was sweating and my whole mouth was tingling after dinner. <br><br>We spent our first full day in Chengdu outside the city - about 140km away in the small town (population > 300,000) of Leshan. Our first stop in the city was the local market. We walked past lurching bags of frogs, noisy crates full of chickens, ducks, and rabbits, bowls of fish and snakes, and at one point a pot of turtles. In no short time, the local vendors would sell all these creatures to people for dinner. (see the photo of Ellie holding a rabbit) The main attraction in the town, however, is the worlds largest Buddha. At 71m tall, seated, the Buddha's large toe is said to be large enough to hold a picnic. The Buddha was originally built in the 700s AD - besides that there is not much to say, other than that it is a very large Buddha. We spent the rest of our time in, or nearby Chengdu. <br><br>We briefly visited a street market in Chengdu, it was refreshing to see turtles being sold as pets, not food. Vendors sold all the elements you would need for a traditional Chinese garden plants, rocks, fish, pond equipment, and turtles of many different shapes and sizes. Some were smaller than a palm, fully grown, and some were easily more than 30lbs with spikes. A few vendors rode by on bicycles covered in bird cages. <br><br>My favorite part of our visit to Chengdu was, perhaps, the Giant Panda Breeding and Research Base. We spent the majority of our time there watching baby giant pandas eating in the nursery. Unfortunately the guards were quite militant about enforcing the no picture policy and I was unable to sneak off any good shots. The adult pandas spend most of their time eating, sleeping and playing - fortunately we timed our visit with the morning feeding and were able to see lots of pandas awake and eating. The panda base was also home to a large number of red pandas. These are much smaller than giant pandas and look suspiciously like a cross between a red fox and a giant panda. There's a funny thing about China - you can do an awful lot with about $6. (see picture of me with the red panda) <br><br>Our final stop in Chengdu, before boarding the train to Xi'an, was a local opera. We couldn't understand much but got around that issue with the help of a local named Tray Lee who translated surprisingly well. I'm certainly extrapolating but the opera seemed to be a triumphal moral comedy. It followed a down on his luck gambler's antics as he tried to sell his wife as a prostitute for gambling money and her eventual revenge. Most of the theater-goers were the relaxed elderly we'd seen in parks earlier and sat around drinking tea during the performance. <br><br><br><br><br> Matthew Dinneenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14844069033284351051noreply@blogger.com0